Fenderwell or chassis exit?

 

uhh, OEM path, so Chassis exit.

 

67ChevySedan,
I have Hooker SuperComps on my 66, should be the same for the 67.
They are a pain, the engine has to be lifted a bit and the car has to be quite a ways off the ground, either on a hoist or on some high jackstands. The headers have to come in from the bottom if the engine is in the car.

Not real fun!

 

headers

do you have a part number are your ceramic coated?

 

So does anyone make "shorty" sytle Universal headers that just simply dump straight down?(J.C. Whitney used to have it for the SB chevy, can't find it tho)

 

Header Advise For First Generation Chevy II

I have 63 Chevy II with a 327 T-350 floor shift that I am looking for the best fitting, full length header for. I plan to buy ceramics and don't even want to think about denting them to get clearance and don't want them rubbing and would like to get at all the plugs. My first thought was to go with block huggers but that takes me out of the "Header Back" exhaust packages that are out there and that combined with less than half the HP gain compared to full length headers, it seems like a no-brain'er to go with the full length headers. I understand they are a tight fit, I put 2 different sets of Hookers on my 65 many years ago. The motor had to be lifted, they had to be dented to get clearance, they rubbed, and changing plugs was a bear. Has anybody had better luck with headers on First Gen. Chevy-II's or should I reconsider Block Huggers? 63-ChevyII.....Mike

 

Any set of 'full length' headers isn't going to be easy to install in an early Nova, and the choices for a mild 327 are limited. If you use design programs such as Pipemax or the one at www.headerdesign.com you find that a 325hp 327 could use a set of 1-1/2" primaries about 36" long with a 2-1/4" collector. You won't find anything close to that off the shelf.
I've used the J&W Nova 1-5/8" header primaries with aftermarket merge collectors with great success. They fit about as well as any OTS headers will, and are reasonably priced.
There are a few factors involved in the fit of the headers, like the positioning of the engine due to modified motor mounts, the change in angle of the headers due to angle milling of cylinder heads, the type of heads you use, etc. We've had 4 different engines in the Durango Deuce in the last few years, and the headers fit different with each engine.
Plug access isn't easy to start with in any early Nova, and you can complicate it easily by adding a rear sump pan with a dipstick blocking access to the 5 & 7 plugs, change from a single pot M/C to a dual with power brakes and lots of tubing to additionally complicate getting to these plugs, etc.

 

My 67' works perfect with my Super Comps. No major fabing needed.

 

So does anyone make "shorty" sytle Universal headers that just simply dump straight down?(J.C. Whitney used to have it for the SB chevy, can't find it tho)

I think its Sanderson that makes the shorty's and they are 1 1/2's. You can usually find them on ebay to give you an idea of what they look like. Do you know the part number off your Hooker's?

 

http://www.sandersonheaders.com/make&model/62_67novamm.htm

I got a stock sb chevy, so my number is the cc14?

and I'm not sure if this picture is the correct repenstation, I'll check Ebay..
http://www.sandersonheaders.com/pagesbypartnum/cc14.htm

Now with these I should NOT have to put the car on jackstands, jack the motor, and all that BS right?

 

According to other forum members, correct. They will drop in from the top and bolt on with no problems. Some have complained about leaking at the flanges, but most have used them without a problem. Also, it's supposed to be difficult for the muffler installer to bend the pipes to make clearance around the starter.

 

Hey Mike, a couple weeks back you mentioned to me via PM that you had a special/modified wrench you use to get to some of the plugs. Can you post pics of it?

 

headers

which header part number you use for the under car super comp I have come up with hooker part #2243 and fender wellis #2214, 2243 list for 419.00 I am looking for a set of under car headers for 66 with small block with 4 speed with lakewood bellhousing and scatter shield. I have heard of lemmons headers and are custom headers and are expensive. do the sanderson headers give the flow and performance of full length headers, thats the question???

 

which header part number you use for the under car super comp I have come up with hooker part #2243 and fender wellis #2214, 2243 list for 419.00 I am looking for a set of under car headers for 66 with small block with 4 speed with lakewood bellhousing and scatter shield. I have heard of lemmons headers and are custom headers and are expensive. do the sanderson headers give the flow and performance of full length headers, thats the question???

I have the hooker 2122-1 and they fit good, but no clearance for r&R of oil filter. Have to loosen header in order to change filter. Also had to run a mini starter for clearance issues. Also I decided to go with hydraulic clutch because Z bar was really tight.

 

do the sanderson headers give the flow and performance of full length headers, thats the question???

Definitely not.

 

I never had any major problems removing plugs from my '64 with full headers (numerous brands). For the rear plugs you use just the plug socket with a 7/8" wrench on the end (no ratchet). The rest come out easily with a ratchet. Never dreaded changing plugs.

 

The headers I have are made by JR. The primary tube from the number 1 and number 2 cylinders run horizontally across the top of the other primary tubes and then drops own at the fire wall. I also have my ignition wires in looms that run over the top of primary tube. I know what you mean by using the socket and wrench but I cant get the wrench on the end of the socket.
Do you headers have the primary tube running across the top?

 

Pro, does that include J&W, and Hedman 68160?

 

Hey Mike, a couple weeks back you mentioned to me via PM that you had a special/modified wrench you use to get to some of the plugs. Can you post pics of it?

I don't have any pics, but the above one will give you an idea. Imagine, if you will, a short 5/8" box end wrench with an extra deep end, which I make by welding the detached box end of another 5/8" wrench directly under the first one with the points lined up, so that a plug can slide completely through. I grind it round so it will clear the head bolts. It serves much the same purpose as a spark plug socket with a wrench attached, except I find it easier to work with.

 

I had to move one of my primarys to clear the oil pan.The pan is a rear sump and has a kick out on both sides.So I had to change the routing of the #5 tube.

Rob

 

Thanks! Good to know.

 

did I mention my 400 cid motor had 283 exhaust manifolds on it?

sanderson headers I'll get, because I need new exhaust manifolds, and headers are just *that* much better!

 

Hi Mike. That is a pretty nifty wrench. Where did you get it? I can tell it's not a Craftsman, or Snap On or the like. Probably just a parts store, huh? Dave

 

If you look at the pic's url, its a fancy German wrench, and probably metric at that I think it's just the first place he knew of that had something like it.

 

I did a search for 'combination wrench' and came up with the pic. My wrench is actually made from two cheap Harbor Freight wrenches.

 

Good. I was afraid you were cheating on your Novas with a Beamer or something

 

I run Hedman headers- they are a super tight fit but I didnt have to modify them.

 

I don't recomend the summit brand full leangth headers. They take a lot of work and they still hit my steering arm @ full turn. You can do whatever you want though. Just my opinion & experience.

Miles