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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone installed Hooker Headers in a '67 with a sm blk chevy? how did you go about installing them, and was there any clearance/spark plug wire issues?
 

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67ChevySedan,
I have Hooker SuperComps on my 66, should be the same for the 67.
They are a pain, the engine has to be lifted a bit and the car has to be quite a ways off the ground, either on a hoist or on some high jackstands. The headers have to come in from the bottom if the engine is in the car.

Not real fun!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So does anyone make "shorty" sytle Universal headers that just simply dump straight down?(J.C. Whitney used to have it for the SB chevy, can't find it tho)
 

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Header Advise For First Generation Chevy II

I have 63 Chevy II with a 327 T-350 floor shift that I am looking for the best fitting, full length header for. I plan to buy ceramics and don't even want to think about denting them to get clearance and don't want them rubbing and would like to get at all the plugs. My first thought was to go with block huggers but that takes me out of the "Header Back" exhaust packages that are out there and that combined with less than half the HP gain compared to full length headers, it seems like a no-brain'er to go with the full length headers. I understand they are a tight fit, I put 2 different sets of Hookers on my 65 many years ago. The motor had to be lifted, they had to be dented to get clearance, they rubbed, and changing plugs was a bear. Has anybody had better luck with headers on First Gen. Chevy-II's or should I reconsider Block Huggers? 63-ChevyII.....Mike
 

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Any set of 'full length' headers isn't going to be easy to install in an early Nova, and the choices for a mild 327 are limited. If you use design programs such as Pipemax or the one at www.headerdesign.com you find that a 325hp 327 could use a set of 1-1/2" primaries about 36" long with a 2-1/4" collector. You won't find anything close to that off the shelf.
I've used the J&W Nova 1-5/8" header primaries with aftermarket merge collectors with great success. They fit about as well as any OTS headers will, and are reasonably priced.
There are a few factors involved in the fit of the headers, like the positioning of the engine due to modified motor mounts, the change in angle of the headers due to angle milling of cylinder heads, the type of heads you use, etc. We've had 4 different engines in the Durango Deuce in the last few years, and the headers fit different with each engine.
Plug access isn't easy to start with in any early Nova, and you can complicate it easily by adding a rear sump pan with a dipstick blocking access to the 5 & 7 plugs, change from a single pot M/C to a dual with power brakes and lots of tubing to additionally complicate getting to these plugs, etc.
 

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67ChevySedan said:
So does anyone make "shorty" sytle Universal headers that just simply dump straight down?(J.C. Whitney used to have it for the SB chevy, can't find it tho)
I think its Sanderson that makes the shorty's and they are 1 1/2's. You can usually find them on ebay to give you an idea of what they look like. Do you know the part number off your Hooker's?
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)

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According to other forum members, correct. They will drop in from the top and bolt on with no problems. Some have complained about leaking at the flanges, but most have used them without a problem. Also, it's supposed to be difficult for the muffler installer to bend the pipes to make clearance around the starter.
 

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headers

which header part number you use for the under car super comp I have come up with hooker part #2243 and fender wellis #2214, 2243 list for 419.00 I am looking for a set of under car headers for 66 with small block with 4 speed with lakewood bellhousing and scatter shield. I have heard of lemmons headers and are custom headers and are expensive. do the sanderson headers give the flow and performance of full length headers, thats the question???
 

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I never had any major problems removing plugs from my '64 with full headers (numerous brands). For the rear plugs you use just the plug socket with a 7/8" wrench on the end (no ratchet). The rest come out easily with a ratchet. Never dreaded changing plugs.
 

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Greg_R_63 said:
Hey Mike, a couple weeks back you mentioned to me via PM that you had a special/modified wrench you use to get to some of the plugs. Can you post pics of it?


I don't have any pics, but the above one will give you an idea. Imagine, if you will, a short 5/8" box end wrench with an extra deep end, which I make by welding the detached box end of another 5/8" wrench directly under the first one with the points lined up, so that a plug can slide completely through. I grind it round so it will clear the head bolts. It serves much the same purpose as a spark plug socket with a wrench attached, except I find it easier to work with.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
did I mention my 400 cid motor had 283 exhaust manifolds on it? :eek:

sanderson headers I'll get, because I need new exhaust manifolds, and headers are just *that* much better! :D
 
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