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H8FUL NOVA

192K views 3.1K replies 61 participants last post by  Stroker Ace Ventura  
#1 · (Edited)
May 17, 2025-I began this log in May of 2021, not long after getting this car. At the time of this edit, I’m 4 years into owning it. This log contains a fairly decent / accurate record of what has been done to the car under my “ownership”. I put that in quotations because there will come a time when my time on earth has expired and it’s my hope that this car stays with my kids and they find this thread and they have all of the “how to” and “how not to” do certain things.

For the newcomer to this log: there’s questions, answers, pictures, side conversations between friends…and so on. I hope that you enjoy it and that it helps you…whoever you are.




Late March 2021. 1972 Nova, 6 cylinder car. I don't know much else about her except the title says she was grey (it's actually green under everything), I see some yellow in some areas that weren't sprayed. She's currently a candy apple-orange-peel red. Running an unknown origin 350 with a TH-350 transmission. Not perfect by any stretch of the imagination but I figured she was pretty solid for what I wanted to do and bought her. What I really should have done was go onto RacingJunk and found a retired grudge car instead of this jalopy. Tuition paid.

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Believe it or not she made a 1200 mile trip and only broke down once. I stopped for gas in what turned out to be a rather shady area. I stepped on the gas a little to get out of dodge and back onto the highway and she stalled where two highways come together at a junction. She cranked but would not start. As cars were whipping around me in excess of 80MPH and being that I would like to live long enough to enjoy this car a little and had no tools with me, I decided to call for a tow.

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Here's where things get just a little sketchy...or maybe I'm just less trusting than I ever imagined. The nice woman on the telephone asked me where I wanted the car towed to. I asked her if the tow company does repairs at their shop. She said that they did not but the tow driver would make a recommendation when he arrived. When the tow arrived, he again asked me where I wanted the car towed and I asked him for a recommendation, he then told me that we would take it back to his shop. I was a little skeptical because the tow dispatch just said they DID NOT SERVICE CARS AT THEIR SHOP.

We drove through miles and miles of back streets before finally arriving at the "shop", which was a buy-here / pay-here lot. The driver said the mechanic would be around at some point to look at it. I paid for the tow and realized I needed cash. When the mechanic arrived I asked him where the nearest ATM was and figured I'd walk down to it, get some cash to pay him for whatever needed done and get back on the road. The mechanic told me he did not want me to walk anywhere.
A few minutes later, he identified the problem was a wire having fallen off of the dizzy. He through some silicone on it, timed the motor (previous owner related it had been timed by ear when he replaced the dizzy), stated his skepticism that the car would make the trip. I paid him and I was on my way.

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#3,003 ·
August 26, 2025
Slowing down substantially. Waiting on something from Andy in the mail which should be here in Tuesday. Have the hood bolted on but not really adjusted. I played with it a little last night and ended up throwing a shim behind the passenger side hinge to push it towards the drivers-side a little. Biggest thing that I'm noticing that I find a little perplexing is that the hood is sitting about 1/4" above the fenders. I do know that my drivers side fender is sitting a little below the cowl.

First, the view out of the windshield:


It doesn't seem to obstruct the vision all too much. I'm pretty happy with how it looks, I still have a pretty decent field of view, so that's good.

There is about a consistent 1/4" gap between my fenders and the hood. I think the answer to this is probably going to be to slot my hinges where they attach to the fenders to adjust them down 1/4".



Here's my passenger and drivers side fender to cowl action:


Drivers side is a little more out of whack than the passenger side. Not sure how I can really fudge this. I do not have any shims or spacers or anything whatsoever on any of the fenders or body mounts or whatever. Not a show car, I don't care about trying to make this picture perfect...hell, I've worked on it so that already means that it's not going to be perfect...but improving some of this would be ideal.


Ok what else? I haven't bolted my beautiful BLP carb to the intake yet. It's not like that takes a ton of effort. Been halfway entertaining buying a different fuel log or something for it but I haven't pulled the trigger on that yet. I also need to decide what I'm going to do with the brakes, whether I want to bolt the big booster back onto the firewall or whether I just want to swap over to manual brakes. I could call Wilwood today at some point and get a recommendation on a master I suppose.

I also should probably reach out to an exhaust shop.
 
#3,012 ·
#3,015 ·
I may end up going that route, another thing on the list I suppose. I will probably mess with these hinges a little more. I spent some time filing them and I have noticed some difference but I'm gaining an appreciation for how objects are placed in 3 dimensional spaces. You start screwing with some of the mounting points and it impacts how the thing fits as a whole. I think that I'll need to slot these much more if I ever hope for them to fit correctly.

I did look at the EMS hinges this morning and they look much more sturdy than the stock hinges but I'm not sure that they adjust more than the stock deals.
 
#3,016 ·
Is it remotely possible to set the hood in place with the hinges loosely bolted to the fender and tied down with wire so you can see, looking through the wheel wells, how bad the misalignment is and where it needs to move? Without wheel liners and the tires off, It seems possible but I'm sure I'm overlooking something. Does the manufacturer say anything about alignment/hinges/springs?
 
#3,017 ·
minor trimming may be required.

in my assessment, it’s fairly close. It’s 1/4” high at most and needs to come down and maybe forward a bit.

I think I’ll just spend some more time filing on the brackets and play with it some. I think it will be ok.
 
#3,018 ·
it may be that the springs are causing all of the trouble? Remove the springs completely and see what that produces. You could use bumpers and hood pins on all 4 corners but still keep the hinge with a super light spring just to keep the rattle down. Need a prop rod also I guess.

Best trick I know for the springs is bolting the hinge to the fender and using a fan belt to yarn it off, or on. You have to cut the belt to open it up.
 
#3,019 ·
@kimmer71 I swapped to their light springs and I don’t know that it’s a spring issue as much as the fitment of the hood and the adjustability (or lack thereof) in the hinges. it’s close enough that it latches, it’s just sitting high and wanting to bind on my passenger fender towards the front. I tried a block of wood and a hammer on the fender to try to create some separation. I think it’s just a matter of dorking with it some
 
#3,020 ·
Sept 1, 2025
Bought some dremel grinding stones today instead of using the file. Could only run the dremel for awhile before it got too hot to handle.

I slotted the hood hinges to the point that I figured we should have enough to drop it down 1/4” inch.

I pop the hood back on and it’s not fitting any differently than before. I then noticed the stupid little rubber bumpers that sit in the channel. I ripped them out and viola…looking decent. Not perfect but better.

I used half a can of WD40 and a torch to get the darn hood latch bum-plug looking deal to break free to turn it in 1/4” inch.

Here’s photos. I know you love photos

 
#3,026 ·
I would absolutely use a good penetrating oil for that... Otherwise, it'll get really dry and stop working altogether...
 
#3,037 ·
Sept 3, 2025
Called Wood of the Wil today to get a recommendation on a master cylinder to do away with my power brakes...you know because I just bought a fancy billet check valve and everything for that, what better time to bail out? Surprisingly, they told me that the master cylinder I have is the one that I want with the calipers I have up front. That's a win.

Part II is that @Stroker Ace Ventura whipped together a new pedal face and head for my Wood of the Wil pedal and it arrived today...thank you brother. This should tighten up the gap between the brake pedal and the gas pedal. I need to mount it up and see where we are an will follow up with some more photos etc.

 
#3,040 ·
#3,042 ·
Is this return spring supposed to be installed on the brake pedal when the brakes are changed from power to manual?

I think - you need the pedal return spring .........................'either way' !
Because you don't want the pedal , hanging , on / against the brake plunger (inside u'r M/C ? ? ? ) .

? ? ? ........... "good question" .


jim
 
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#3,041 ·
...................... "your Hood - sticks up , at the rear gap , by the cowl panel ? ? ? OR - - your Hood sticks up (too high) , along your fender ? ? ? " .................. do fender 1st = cowl screen can be shimed easier.

In the 'Body Shop Days' , you look at your hood ; your hood hinge = 'raising up & down , to have level with u'r fender' . you move (adjust) your hood hinge = it moves u'r hood .................. you know this........ but 'they are "tricks" , too get things 'better - - -

The "slotting the hinge holes" = could work , but Chevrolet made those holes longer , for this.

Too lower the back (REAR) lip , too be even (match) , with the cowl panel = you have u'r : two hood hinge bolts (bolted into u'r fender = those hinge bolts , ARE slightly long slots =
giving some room too adjust u'r hood rear edge : 'some adjustment' : to do that .......... and, you want too move your hood (the rear edge down ; too match your cowl screen ! !

Probably way too late:

We would want too lower the rear hood edge (hood lip) , to go down (just a small amount & match ; either on just one 'side' (or the complete rear edge , down) .
Take your hood hinge bolts = tighten them (where they don't move) ........................ then for the rear hood to "move down - the easy way" - loosen the rear hood hinge bolt , too let the hood move.
As you loosen the rear hinge bolt = have someone standing at the front of the car , hands UP, at the front hood lip : when you loosen the rear hood hinge bolt , they push UP on the hood . . . .
thus, moving the rear hood edge "down" (depending how hard the guy = pushes up (the more the rear edge moves down ! ! ! ) .
............get it ...........
This 'will , also move' the "side edge" down = along the Hood / Fender gap (some ? ? ? ) . This depends - - how hard that guy , pushes up (as far as, on how much movement "happens" ) .
TOOOOOOO Much ? ?
Or , now the cowl gap - - is looking better ; but the hood = "fits (better , now) along the rear lip (along the cowl) , and DID come down , along the fender edge . . . . . but, still needs too move
(or , down more) - - then, maybe , try again .................. but when you move things , (adjust gaps) , make sure too tighten that bolt back down. " - before 'HE' , moves.

You may , need to align the hood side / fender edge - - gaps , 1st ? Because the cowl screen can be much easier too shim , up & down = because the cowl screen moves quicker / easier / better (than , the fender does) .

It's a 'work - in - progress' - - sometimes , easy - or - not . Keep at it , and take u'r time .

let me know - - If I can help out .



jim
 
#3,045 ·
@Twinshadows I had the hood adjusted as low as it would go in the slots going to the fender and it was 1/4” proud. After slotting it was happier. I figured if I shimmed the fenders up (although I don’t remember if my cowl or fenders are proud in relation to one another, the hood hinges bolts to the fenders so that relationship remains the same.

Trying to get panels aligned a little nicer will be something to worry about another day.