what battery do you have? and yes, there should be many options for you to be able to connect accessories to the battery. a pic of your current battery/wiring at the post would help to be able to give advice... but just in case you mean the typical gm style side post... here is an example of two different styles...

not sure if this is what you are asking

 

Thanks, It’s a screw in to the battery type of connection, I’ll take a pic when I get home later

 

Picture 1 is probably what you want if you aren't planning to rewire everything. They're pretty cheap, just make sure to get the short post instead of long post, otherwise you'll strip the battery out. Get two so you can have a good ground location.

Picture 2 is good for a full rewire (as it doesn't appear to support the stock positive wire) or if you have a battery with side and top posts, with the existing wires on the top post.

 

Thanks

 

 

Ok I messed up, to many pics lol , anyways here is my battery

 

The original 5/16" headed bolt comes out (and it's easier if the end of the cable is warm as the bolt has a molded in flange and if the rubber end is cold it's not easy getting that bolt out).

The new bolt (the top one that LSCustoms shows) then replaces the original bolt and you are left with a stud and nut that you can then attach ring terminals to.

I know this can get screwed up as I sold many of those replacement studs so with the original bolt out, put the battery cable end onto the battery terminal like it was before you took things apart and THEN put the bolt in and snug it down.

DO NOT go super tight as the threads in the battery are not super strong.

Jim

 

The original 5/16" headed bolt comes out (and it's easier if the end of the cable is warm as the bolt has a molded in flange and if the rubber end is cold it's not easy getting that bolt out).

The new bolt (the top one that LSCustoms shows) then replaces the original bolt and you are left with a stud and nut that you can then attach ring terminals to.

I know this can get screwed up as I sold many of those replacement studs so with the original bolt out, put the battery cable end onto the battery terminal like it was before you took things apart and THEN put the bolt in and snug it down.

DO NOT go super tight as the threads in the battery are not super strong.

Jim

 

When I did mine I cut the molded shoulder out since the new lug didn't fit right with it there. Made removal of the original much easier too, as it just fell out 😂

 

Does this look like one that will work? Found at autozone 😁

 

Also if I may ask ,

Also I was told this red wire will work with the key on/off power, would this be enough to tap into for the electric fan power on/off, 12v switched ignition
In my case the wire diagram is yellow wire which also has a red wire for the 12v battery wire

 

Also if I may ask , View attachment 420763
Also I was told this red wire will work with the key on/off power, would this be enough to tap into for the electric fan power on/off, 12v switched ignition
In my case the wire diagram is yellow wire which also has a red wire for the 12v battery wire
View attachment 420764

Can you ask this person why they said that red wire would work ?.

That wire may very well show power when the key is in the run and crank position and dead in all other key positions BUT it is just not the spot to be getting switched power for the coil of the relay.

That same person saying you can use the red wire on the voltage regulator would probably say you could tie into the power side of the coil as it too would show 12V with the key in the run and crank position and dead in all other key positions but this spot too is not what you want to tie into.

Ideally do things right and tap into the fuse block using one of the male terminals on the fuse block for adding things like what you are wanting to do. Most of the male terminals made for adding accessories are protected by neighboring fuses but double check things and assume nothing.

As far as how they suggest wiring the relay is NOT safe at all. One should NEVER run an unprotected wire from the battery to a fan and then fuse the negative side. If at any point before the fuse becomes shorted to ground, wires and insulation as well as what they are laying against will be damaged and possibly cause other issues like a fire.

I bet if you do a search on the site, there will be plenty of things written about adding electrical fans to a vehicle.

Jim

 

I made a couple of bars from 6061 aluminum flat stock with a Acrylic spacer in the middle to distribute my power feeds.
Also easier to attach battery charger when needed.

 

Thanks for you help! I don’t know much about electrical but did think kind of odd to fuse a ground.
that is a pic of the directions that cam with the temp controller

So to be clear I should add a 30 amp fuse for the power from the battery, and the switched ignition from the fuse box ( accessory)
should that have a fuse also?
should the ground wire go direct to battery?
If your answers are yes to both then I need
2 battery terminal connections
2 30 amp in line fuses
And what gauge wire should I use from fuse box?

 

Color of the wires can be what you have but the wayI would wire the electrical fan would be:
Red - from battery to 30 AMP fuse.
Red - from fuse to relay post number 30 (usually the center connection)
White - from ignition switch 12v with key in on position to relay post 86
Yellow - from coolant sensor to relay post 85
Blue - from relay post 87 to fan motor
Black - from fan motor to chassis ground

 

My fuse box, looks full lol which one for fan ?

 

I would track down what has been added to the fuse block on what I call "taps" (the 1/4" male terminals on the fuse block for adding accessories which allow for things to be on all the time, only when the ignition switch is in the accessory or run position, or when the ignition switch is in the run and crank position, as well as then allowing additional lighting to be added and controlled by the headlight switch to include dimming).

These "taps" are labeled BAT for a source of constant power, and then one labeled ACC which only has power when the key is in the accessory or run position, then one labeled IGN that has power when the key is in the run and crank position, and then the last is a tap labeled LPS which is a variable 0-12V output controlled by the headlight switch.

These "taps" are protected by neighboring fuses to where if an overload or short occurs then the proper fuse will blow.

These "taps" are also protected by different size fuses so this must be taken into account when doing things. You NEVER want to use for example the ACC "tap" terminal pictured in your photo being protected with a 10A fuse on a wire smaller than 14 gauge (for some reference: 12 Volt Automotive Wire - American Made - WiringProducts. Ltd. ). These numbers int he chart are for reference and it's not written in stone, if you stay close to those recommendations, you should be fine.If you are going to error,go to the larger gauge wire.

Remember that the fuse is to protect the wire AFTER it.


IF you find yourself finding out what is plugged into the fuse blocks IGN tap, and it is something you still need to retain, then you need to gather some parts so what you are adding is more of a plug and play type of setup.

The ignition "tap" is a 1/4" male terminal and one can use a 1/4" female terminal to make a connection to it. You can then unplug what is already there on the "tap" and then with some wire, basically make up a "Y" connection. Take some 14 gauge wire and on a stripped end,crimp on a fully insulated 1/4" female terminal. Now go backon this wire maybe 2" or so and cut the wire. Now strip both ends of those wires, twist them together and now crimp on a fully insulated 1/4" male terminal. The long side of the wire will go to some device and then the dangling fully insulated 1/4" male terminal then also a second thing to be plugged into it using a fully insulated 1/4" female terminal. You can do this not once, but twice, three times, four times or more BUT remember you need to know what the total amp draw will be so that the fuse protecting the 'tap" in the fuse block is not overloaded.

This is a factory setup to add a cruise control using the "tap" and then the unused and can be used for yet another added item.

Here is the one for a factory rear defroster:

Also notice too on the "taps" that they are keyed to where an assembly line person or a person adding a factory designed part cannot plug it into the wrong spot. They wanted to make it idiot proof.

Jim

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