Stitch welding is stopping and starting the weld bead to control heat.
A preferred method is skip welding which involves making 3/4" (approx) beads and then skipping to another area of the panel to make another 3/4" bead. In time you will come back and fill in the skipped area giving you 100% weld.

 

Here's an old drawing about doing a patch panel with making some tack welds to hold it into position and then a way to jump around stitch welding (like what Technova stated).

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1094699615049730488jtfqwG

If it's a small patch panel then even though you jump around with your stitch welds to keep the heat down, you may have to take a break and let it cool and then start up and do a few more.

Jim

 

Now I get it.So if you were to replace a rear quarter panel along the body line(not a complete panel)would it be possible to weld without any warping?I have a rather large project ahead of me with little experience with body panels.

 

Possible without warping ? Very, very, slim in my opinion but I'm also a hobbiest with only so much time welding and haven't experienced using something like smaller mig wire (I've always used 0.30" wire but they also make a 0.21" or so wire).
The amount of warpage to me should also decrease with a shorter stitch weld. It should also decrease with the more experience a person has welding. With small amounts of warpage sometimes a little hammer and dolly work can get some or most of the warpage worked out as well as using a shrinking disc.
With little experience with body panels you might find out like I did you think you got most or all of the warpage out only to find out after a coat of sanded down filler there are some high spots that might need to be tapped down.
If you place your cut line in an area you can get to the backside with a hammer or dolly it would be better than placing it elsewhere in that it makes it harder to work the area with some tools.
I had bought half quarters for my 74 only to get one side most of the way welded on but ended up cutting it off, selling it to another person that only had so much money but I told him he will spend more time I think putting that one on, making it right to where buying and installing a full quarter while costing more might be easier to install and finish off.
There's always a cost, time, and availability scale to repairing a car I think. What you might save in cost for the part may take longer to install but if a better part is not available then you have to use what is out there.

Jim

 

I presume you are using a mig? On a large panel like that you will have to take your time welding in different areas and only short welds at a time,even cool it with a wet rag to keep the heat down.You might still get a bit of warping and will have to do some hammer and dolly work.

 

The problem areas are the wheel openings.They were worked to fit slicks.I would like to repair only these.I've been told to replace up to the body seam.But I hate to cut that much out of otherwise mint factory quarters.Please advise.

 

If the wheel well openings are modified for slicks, most likley you'll need to change out the outer wheel house. I'd suggest you go to the .o23 wire. You can do the seam without warpage, but I'd suggest using a full qtr, and outer wheelhouse. While replacing a full qtr may seem difficult, trying to seam that entire area is actually more difficult to do without warpage, or ending up with a "surfs up" qtr. JMHO

 

Use the .023 or sometimes labelled .024 wire. Need the .023 contact tip also.
Use the skip welding technique and blow it with a air blow gun to cool it between welds, don't use water.
A full 1/4 as Schonye posted would be better than patching in a piece.
You can take it to factory seams, control corrosion better and end up with less bodywork, less filler, a stronger repair and less chance of waves. It will take less time overall to do the whole 1/4.
I've done alot of partials when it was all that was available, it would take alot of bribary to get me to put one on now that fulls are available.

 

I don't want to go into the door jam or the sail panel just up to the body line.Are the Goodmarks up to par for this?

 

goodmark skins



call firewheel classic1-800-711-0125 they have good prices on goodmark stuff 2 -66 quarter skins cost me 259.69

 

Steve,The Goodmark Skins are fine for that and board member Nightshade can Hook you up with great pricing and service.The Full 1/4's from Goodmark also work well.

 

Thank you all for the help.Steve.

 

Thanks,I'll give them a call.

 

One last comment.A well installed full qtr will, in most cases bring a higher resale value to most cars than a skin. If it's just a hobby/fun car with no potential pedigree, ie:307 vrs 396 SS, it will matter less. If it's a real deal SS L 78 or something kinda unique, it will. FWIW

 

IT is a real deal SS L78.I've heard that the Goodmarks are not great in the door jam area.this is why i,m thinking skin.has any one done a full Goodmark qtr?I'd be willing to bet NOS will be pricey.

 

goodmark quarters



who did you here that from about the door jam area not being that good on goodmark

 

It was on another thread.It may have been on SCR.They said it wasn't even close so they cut to save the orig.jam.But this may have been one bad panel so I'd like to know if any one else has tried these complete quarters.

 

Steve,I have a Picure of the Full 1/4's installed.The Jambs look fine to Me.They even have the Whole Reciever,not half.I have heard of people cutting the Jamb off of the NOS 1/4's becuase some are not correct.If you need a Picture I have them with No Filler Hiding anything.

 

Joe is correct. The goodmark stampings have the correct reciever type impression in the jamb area. And yes they fit pretty well. Some on the SYC site are purists who don't want anything other than nos. That's a personal choice not always tied to the quality of the stamping, as much as it's pedigree.ie: nos GM vrs goodmark, off shore.

 

If you guys are happy with them I'll order a pair and have a look.I've been very happy with Goodmark for bumpers and other bits and pieces.Thank you for your input.Steve.

 

Steve,If you were closer I would show you a set on a Car,not sure if Pictures will show you much.I dont want to sound like I am Pimping him out,but I would use Nightshade for the order.He has Great Prices and Great Service.

 

I know I should support forum members but theres a body shop nearby that will sell me the panels at 10% over cost with no shipping and will bail me out if I get into trouble with the install.I would like to see pics. of your car only if its no trouble.Thanks,Steve.