Hi

Hi,
If you looking for the stock locations for those things:
If it had a factory tach it would be on the left of speedo.
On the right would be a clock, if so equipped.
When you ordered the gauge package for the console,
the gas gauge moved to the console, and the tach was on the left of speedo.
Ken

 

Your car is correct, the console and gauge package were 2 different options. If you ordered both, then the fuel gauge was relocated to the console and the tach was in the dash. This was a rare option, or not very common, only 2200 or so 69's were equipped with this setup.

 

What I need to know is can I buy a tach that will work with the car. I have seen them for sale but they say it is not for 396. Is the red line the only difference in the tachs? If the red line is the only thing different, I can live with that.

 

Classic Industries has what you want!

Toll Free Order Line 800.854.1280

www.classicindustries.com

Go to their Nova catalog downloads and get the dash Adobe.pdf
Look on pages 89-90 (dash gauges) and 118-119 (console gauges).

They have the 1968-74 in-dash tach available for all Novas with console gauges, this tachometer is technically correct for all V8 models except 1968-70 327ci/325hp or 396ci. Mounts in the left opening of the speedometer. This tachometer features 7000 RPM range with 5000 RPM redline.
1968-74 - part #5657301 - $239.95 each

If you are adding gauges and tach to a model not equipped originally with these options, you'll need to replace your speedometer with part #6496617-$239.95.

1969-74 in-dash fuel gauge for Novas without console gauges, part #6431585 - $99.95 each.

1968-74 in-dash clock with console gauges, part #994125 - $189.95

Gary

 

Thanks for the help, but this does not answer my question. tachometer fits all V8 models except 1968-70 327ci/325hp or 396ci. I have a 70 396, so why will it not work?

 

Tach



the difference was the red lines, IIRC there were 2 or 3 different ones they will all work on any V-8
If your car didnt have console guages you can add a tach, Shiftworks makes one that goes where the clock would be - to the right of the speedo

 

Thanks for the help guys.

 

hello jmorganste, good luck with the gauges. mine came with the tach & clock but mine is a sb which has the 5000rpm red line. i'm in the process of digging into my dash now so if i can help, let me know. taz stated that only 2200 or so were produced in 69, would someone know the #s for 1970. i don't recall having found info about this in my studies.

 

Doug Marion's "Chevy II Nova" book has this:

1969 Nova Regular Production Options (R.P.O.s)
U17 Console Gauges and Tachometer 2,321 Total
U35 Electric Clock 10,032 Total

1970 Nova Regular Production Options (R.P.O.s)
U17 Console Gauges and Tachometer 1,680 Total
U35 Electric Clock 7,216 Total

Gary

 

Careful what you read in books, magazines, and catalogs!

I think there are 3 different redline options IIRC, one for the L48, L34 & L78. Pretty sure the Nova Resource site has the details.

Also, there is a color change between '70 & '71. The '68-'70 gauges were green tinted, while the '71+ were white. Doesn't sound like a big deal, even if you don't care about the 'show judging nonsense', but if you mix the white & green gauges in the same car it will look bad. So, be careful of the catalogs.

Finding the correct green tinted parts for an L78 is difficult, not to mention the wiring harness. Not sure if you've checked out your heater box under the dash, but that is special too - in fact that is how I found out that I too have a console L78, sans gauges!

 

Careful what you read in books, magazines, and catalogs!

I think there are 3 different redline options IIRC, one for the L48, L34 & L78. Pretty sure the Nova Resource site has the details.

Beat me to it. I take it we are talking about an L78 car here? '396' is not descriptive enough.

L48s got a 4500 RPM yellow, 5000 RPM red
L34s got a 5000 RPM yellow, 5500 RPM red
L78s got a 5500 RPM yellow, 6000 RPM red

 

thanks gary for your reply. does the red line markings on the orianal tachs signify a difference in its ability to perform at higher rpms, say 6200rpms consistantly? will it damage these tachs or do they all perform to 7000?

 

Side tracking here but I want to explain something.:yes:

The original GM 1968-72 Nova tachometer was specially designed to fit the engine ordered with the car. There are several tachometers. How do you know which one fits your car? The link below outlines the basic differences between the tachometers. There were some changes made to the tachometers during these years.

"http://www.chevynova.org/NovaTachs.html"

A tachometer system is provided for a motor vehicle having an engine selected from a plurality of engines having unique maximum rated engine rpms.

I may be wrong again here (don't think so, but maybe) but aren't engine internals, bore, stroke, cam, type crank, etc. the main things to be considered when determining an engine "red line". Piston velocities are what I understand to be the main factor. What these guys (like MAKESHIFT4) are talking about is a maximum shift point, not an engine red line. The red line is not the point where the power starts to drop off when shifting; it is the engine speed in rpms, that when exceeded, may result in catastrophic engine failure. In other words, the red line is the maximum "safe engine operating rpm". The tachometer may function all the way to 7,000 rpm but that don't mean that your engine will without blowing up.

Note: above taken from Shuboxchevy's thread back in 05/16/2008-how do you determine a redline when installing tach

I have seen blueprinted Z/28 302ci small blocks that were set up for professional racing cars that can and do rev to 7,000 rpm during shifting while racing, but I would not recommend doing that to a stock or daily driver engine.

Gary

 

I'm not sure on the tachs but the speedo coloring was different in 68. It was more of a green tint that the later cars. I think it ran over to the 69 models also.

 

My Yenko has the original engine with a box-stock rebuild, and I can assure you that it has been shifted at 7,000+ rpms many times! I've driven unrestored, stock, a/t equipped Yenko Deuces and they shift at 7,000 rpm on their own. Amazingly calm car to drive.... love hearing engines rev up into the mid 6-7k rpm range. :yes:

 

Yenko Deuce Reg,
I was just trying to tell the new guys with little or no experience that it is better to act and exorcise on the side of caution until you do know what you can and can't do with these old cars.
NPHNP

I too have seen stock cars with small blocks like the 1969 Z/28 302ci Camaros and 1970 LT1 350ci Yenko Novas and 1970 LT1 350ci Z/28 Camaros that could make shifts in the 6,000-7,000rpm range. These were exceptional high performance cars in stock form.:yes:

But I would not try it and would not recommend trying to shift something like say old 1967-69 Novas and Camaros with stock small blocks like a LM1 350ci/255hp, L30 327/275hp, or L48 350ci/300hp engines. These small blocks (in stock form) should be shifted more safely in the 4,500rpm-5,000rpm range.


Gary

 

I've shifted my BB at 7500!!

 

thanks for the info. i've designed my motor for the ideal shift point to be 5800 rpms. my car is equiped with the 5000 rpm red line.if i bring the original tach back on line,will the consistent shifting at 5800 harm the tach? can the oem tach marked with the 5000 rpm line handle the higher rpm use & is there a machanical difference between the three oem tachs? i would like to have my oem tach operational but will leave it disconnected rather than harm it.

 

I don't think it would. There will still be some travel left as they all go to 7k I believe. Only thing I'd be worried with is accuracy, but then again these tachs are so small it doesn't really tell you much.

 

your all wrong

just hold it to the floor and shift right before it blows. if it blows you'll know you waited too long the lower redlines were for the more stock motors like the l-48 350 300 hp cast crank, pistons, mild hydraulic cam cast intake, ect while these motors will rev to 6-7k but wont last long and they dont pull hard over 5k anyway. as others have stated the oem tachs arent that accurate.

 

I'm pretty sure the tach are the same, just the redline is altered to suit each application.

 

thanks guys.

 

gauge and tach for my 70 396, help

Now, for another question, is it unclear if all of these in dash tach conversion kits (Classic Industries, others) will work with an MSD box ignition system without an expensive MSD tach adapter. It is clear that Autometer tachs will work with the MSD box and so will the Shiftworks tach kits.

See this link:

http://www.novaresource.org/rnrarchives04.htm

Has anyone here used any of these tach kits with the MSD box?

Just curious.

Gary