When you replaced the tie rod ends, did you also replace the idler arm on passenger side frame and the pitman arm on the box? Both have wear joints like a tie rod does in them.
How about the suspension bushings in the upeer and lower A-arms, those get replaced too?
If all that was done, that leaves the box output shaft bushings, and the rag joint on the input shaft, and possibly just the sector screw adjustment on the top of the box needs re-set.

With everyhitng good and tight, the only advantage to a Rack is lightness for racers, it isn't any better steering wise than a box. Conversion sure is $$$ though.

 

If all else is in good order then alignment and tires would be the next possible causes for the unpredictable handling behavior. A toe out condition will make the front end feel loose and wander around on the road . There are some other things to try before going to a rack and pinion conversion. Tall spindles or ball noints and upper control arms with better geometry would be the first considerations I would look at changing to improve handling.

 

Goods points and opinion. Bushings I know we did, but after 15 yrs I can’t recall on the arms. We’ll dig into it.
Not sure I/we are experienced enough to make changes to the overall geometry.

 

If all the replaceable parts check out, the subframe may need to be checked for damage pushing it out of alignment. Collision damage and rust can do this.

There were a few different pitman arms used in your period, so be wary of that. Some of the online megamarts will sell "one size fits all". The last two columns are GM # and Moog #.

Pitman Arm	Front | LH	1968 - 74 All Models w/ Manual Steering Stamped "3953219"	3989441	K6150
Pitman Arm	Front | LH	1968 - 74 All Models w/ Manual Steering exc. 307 V8	3935707 (Sup. 06-1970) 9781825 (Sup. 04-1977) 3953217 (Sup. 12-1981) 3989441	K6150
Pitman Arm	Front | LH	1968 - 74 All Models w/ Power Steering & 307 V8 1970 w/ Hi Performance 350 & Power Steering	3989445	K6582
Pitman Arm	Front | LH	1970 - 74 All Models w/ Power Steering w/out Hi Performance 350	3989443	K6151

 

If you did not replace the upper and lower control arm bushings, I would definitely look into those items. Before I rebuild the front suspension on my Nova, the car seemed to dart left and right on its own with out any steering input. Upon removal of the lower control arms I noticed that one of the bolts had worn thru the metal bushing of one lower control arm and had created an oval shape in rubber portion. This play was causing my lower control arm to move unpredictably... thus causing my steering issues.

I replaced all control arm bushings (with derin)... along with some other upgraded parts (tubular upper control arms + taller upper ball joints) and my Nova now handles like a new car.

It's not hard to improve the geometry of your Nova (as Nova Thug suggested). All you really need is some tubular upper control arms (more positive caster) with some 1/2" taller upper ball joints (negative camber gains) and a good front end alignment using some modern specs (not the stock alignment specs). I also recommend delrin bushings (or Del-a-Lum bushings if reusing the stock control arms) for better handling. All of the above items are bolt-on.... or press-on items.

 

Well, it's been an interesting going down memory lane going through all the receipts back to the email to purchase it in Sept. 2003. It was a CA import to IN and had zero rust.
Our first project was replacing the suspension parts. Bushings, tie rod parts, ball joints and idler arm. But no Pitman arm. Since we were just starting out, we bought all the parts local from a local GM Genuine parts only store. But the recession took them out. But looking at part numbers on the receipts they don't match the numbers you gave or that Classic Muscle catalog shows. So I may be better to start over with new arms and verify bushing conditions, then move onto the steering gear box. Thanks for the opinions.

 

Before you go haphazardly replacing parts, take some time to inspect things. First with the car on the ground, have a helper turn the steering wheel back and forth a short distance repeatedly while you inspect each link in the steering chain. Have them keeping going back and forth as you do each of the following:
(1) Look down from the engine compartment at the steering box coupler aka rag joint. See if the steering column is moving independently of the input to the steering box. If so, the coupler may need to be replaced
(2) Look down from the engine compartment watching both the pitman arm movement and the input to the steering box. If the input moves while the pitman arm hesitates, there is slack in the box. You may be able to adjust this out using the adjuster screw and lock nut on top of the box or if it's too far gone you may need to replace the box
(3) From under the car, look at each and every joint in the steering linkage:
(3a) Pitman arm joint where it connects to the center link
(3b) Idler arm joint where it connects to the center link
(3c) Idler arm joint where it pivots near the frame
(3d) Each (x4) tie rod end where they connect to the center link or steering arms
(4) Look at the upper and lower balljoints at each wheel
(5) Look for any movement of the steering box itself where it bolts to the frame
(6) Look for any movement of the idler arm where it bolts to the frame
(7) Look for movement at the upper and lower control arm bushings

If you go through that methodically you will likely find where your slop is. If you are by yourself, you can check everything above by propping your cellphone and taking video of each joint while you move the wheel.

 

Another item you can check and easily eliminate is rear axle steer. Having gone down this road( literally) checking this now can save a lot of $ money and headache, and its easy to check.
Measure the distance (gap)from both rear tires to the front fender, inline with the center of the tire( axle height). You can literally use your fingers at first. If its off measure with tape. Compare each side.
If they are not the same then look carefully at your rear tires from different angles. Place a 2 x 4 on the narrow edge or the like against both tire outer sidewalls. see if the boards run inline with the body. If not then start looking at the axle mounting points on the leaf springs. There is a nub or pin that aligns the axle to the leaf springs. It can pop out, especially if the bottom shock mount plate is worn or damaged, or if work was done and the pin was not put back in the hole.
With a crocked rear axle, the more you accelerate the more it pushed the front over, say ( E. G.) to the left, so you steer right to compensate, and as you let off the gas, there is less rear steering input and the front pushes right so you steer left, etc.
I'm explaining this cause one would think that with a crocked rear axle it would only push in one direction, and initially that is what happens, but after that t he car is all over the place.
Consider that if the pin it out of the hole by 1/2", then that tire will be over 1" forward or back from where it should be.
GL, hope this helps

 

Now that’s an interesting twist

 

G: let me know if I can help more.

 

73 hatchback fun, or is it

I 've been working on my nova for awhile, took a bit of a break over the holidays. From reading taranchula's thread and a few others ( which I really appreciate) I am realizing more and more that this is a project more than what I thought it would be... a fun car that I could work on as I go...

www.stevesnovasite.com

start at post # 110.

 

Was the front suspension built under load at ride height? Not doing so could cause these symptoms.
Also, is there a sway bar installed. I hear, some came without sway bars. If there’s no sway bar, and you add one, there will be a world of difference.

 

Was the front suspension built under load at ride height? Not doing so could cause these symptoms.
Also, is there a sway bar installed. I hear, some came without sway bars. If there’s no sway bar, and you add one, there will be a world of difference.

i've read this, but often wondered: how can you climb under and do this stuff at ride height? tough to get under even jacked up a bit, so what is the accepted safe method (other than a pit you drive over)?

-Rusty

 

Put the suspension under load, either with jack stands under the suspension or sitting with the tires on blocks.