Painting

IMO
Spray everything separate B/C then reassemble. Less overspray to deal with.

 

IMO
Spray everything separate B/C then reassemble. Less overspray to deal with.

not trying to be disagreeable but that is exactly what i did and will never do again.
It seems logical until you assemble the car and realize the paint looks different on some of the panels in sunlight, even though it was mixed and shot though the gun at the same time.

If the panels arent painted at he exact angle that they will hang- it changes the color. Not an expert so don't ask me why.

Mine isn't that bad - its liveable but I would never do it again.


Jamb the thing - assemble - scuff the overspray on the outer shell- then shoot color and clear.

Just my opinion

 

what color are you spraying the car? like previously mentioned, some colors can look different when you spray the panels off the car, and some not. also you mentioned that there is sealer on it already? if so you will have to scuff/sand the sealer before putting color over it, or it may not stick. another thing to do when spraying it is make sure that the primer or sealer is all the same color with no sand throughs, as it could take extra coats to make everything look the same.

 

Thank you for this information. The car will be painted Hugger Orange.
The medium gray sealer is on and there are no sand thru areas. I will scuff the sealer as mentioned. Thanks Again

 

Paint the jambs,then reassemble and paint the rest.:yes:

 

Im thinking a good painter will be able to see the sections he can not get to when the car is assembled and he should only shoot those areas with color and clear. Then assemble the car and mask it off correctly and shoot the color and clear on the jambs and body as a hole.

There are only a couple of areas that cant be painted with the doors and fenders in place. Hit those.

The pain in the *** work is masking off all the areas for the final color and clear. With the doors in place the masking job is pretty large. You have to mask the areas that you already shot. And you have to mask the entire door opening, with the doors in place. And allow for some movement of the door when you are shooting the paint to get to some tight areas. Means you better have some masking skills. Where the masking will flex some if you need to close the door some.

Masking is the BEAR of painting. And unfortunately its often left to the low dude on the paint line. But thats a critical job. If the masker does a supreme job it makes it easier for the shooter to come in and do his work.

Specially nice if the masker made flexible joints in his mask so the doors can be moved slightly during the paint process.

Masking a car for paint is almost just as much of an art as the guy that gets to shoot the paint.

If the painter and masker are used to working with each other then that helps alot. Like the masker needs to know where the last line of clear was, and mask the car according to where the painter will pick up that line.

Easy in a small shop where the masker is the painter. But many large shops have a guy or three doing the masking and then send the painter in.

Masking and painting.. Its a complete process. You will know when they dont communicate much, there will be a failed paint line between the body and the door jambs. JR

 

You can paint the car blown apart then carefully reassemble it. I have done it many times. Really easy with a solid color like Hugger, can also be done
with metallics if you do it right.
I have painted body shells with metallics and not painted the doors or fenders for a few weeks and can get a perfect match. You have to watch the temps, humidity, airflow, pressure etc.

 

Shouldn't you have planned this out before you sprayed sealer?
Sealers have max recoat times, maybe 72 hrs.
Typically you don't seal until you are ready to paint, basecoat goes on 10-30 minutes after the sealer.

 

I would paint the car dis-assembled so that there are no tape lines or blems....thats how we did it at the high end body shop i used to work at....only the regular daily driver cars that had basic collison repairs got sprayed assembled.....

 

Like bigdaddy... said. I would paint it appart. I did a 68 camaro for a friend of mine in Hugger O and painted it all appart. Like I said before make sure that you have a solid ground coat or sealer on everything before you put the color to it. also, as mentioned before the sealer does usually go on right before you paint. As for sealer color, I would use a light gray color because the hugger orange does not cover that well (semi-transparent), and will require extra coats to get coverage over any spots that are a different color (I speek from experience), and the paint is pretty expensive. I would hang all the doors, fenders, deck lid, and misc pieces and paint them inside and out all at once, then paint the main body and jams all at once then you will not have to worry about any masking or tape lines showing in the final product. If you use this method, you should have absolutely no problem with panels being different colors. good luck!!

chris

 

I've done it both ways, and either way is effective. The benefit of taking everything off is you get areas that can't be gotten to assembled. In a nutshell that's the best way IMO. Lay the hood and trunkid flat and use coat hangers or wire for the fenders. Keep them hanging as if they were on the car. Saw horse works good too. Now painting with everything assembled is good too there's no reassembly, well not as much. Hit the jambs and work inside out Noe keep in mind that the areas not painted will be the inner fenders side of the cowl. If you ever detach your hood or trunk lid the paint will rip unless you use a razor to cut the paint around the hinges. IMO and jmo, I like to paint unassembled,

 

Less chance of dirt in the paint when painted seperatly. Also, you don't feel as rushed when you do a couple parts at a time, but can end up with runs if you rush it. Metalics cound be a problem painting them seperatly and 3 stage pearls should be painted with the car assembled.

 

I concur.

chris

 

Ok, I decided I will paint them seperatly so I welded up a couple of rigs to hold the doors and fenders in the same position they will be on the car.
I had a couple of rollable steel racks that were left in the building when I purchased it so I used them. I can now paint all around them
When your painting the hood and trunk lid how do the Pros jig those up so you can paint both top and bottom so there in no seam line?

 

The underside of the hood is semi gloss black so you don't need to paint it at the same time as the outdside.

I have bolts with flat washers welded to them that I screw into the hinge holes. Then you can hang the panels to get at all sides for paint.
Don't screw the bolts in too far.

 

If it was me, being you are painting Hugger O, I would just hang the deck lid vertically.

chris

 

This is great information I can't what to start painting but I do not have my paint booth finished yet and it is still pretty humid out. Another few weeks and the weather will turn.
What is the PPG black you would use for the underside of the hood and is this the same color black you would use on the interior (dash area), etc? Also where does the color stop and the black start on the hood (tape line or overspray)? Thank you