I have a jegs vacuum cannister, the cam I have in the motor is pretty big I guess (I don't know what it is).
It helps somewhat, After the first mash I guess it runs out of vacuum and the brakes aren't as good. It helps if I downshift while braking (who'da think) to build up vacuum.
Maybe one day I'll fork up about 300 bucks and get an electric vacuum pump.. But for now, it works ok.

 

Rjwz28,

I am running a Vacuum pump for my brakes. I have the same problem as Glebo68, I can only get about 7 inches of Vacuum at idle. I forget the make of the pump, I bought it years ago and just can't remember. Anyway my vacuum was so low it was causing brake problems so I decided to add the pump. After adding the pump, my brakes work perfectly.

I hope this helps.

Kevin

 

I have a Summit vacuum canister with a check valve between my brake booster and the intake manifold. I added it to help with the power brakes and the previous, much wilder engine I had in the car with very little vacuum at idle. Admittedly, I didn't see any harm in leaving it, so it's still there with a much milder engine now. No problems, no complains, and has done it's job dutifully for 5 or 6 years to help assist with the power booster.

 

I added a canister to my 63ss to help provide more vacuum to my brake booster. In my case it did not make a noticeable difference.

 

I’d go with Hydro-Boost brake system.
Brings your car to another level
for braking. Peace of mind.

 

Nova 71, is that pump very noisy?? I imagine you wouldn't hear it over engine noise anyway...

dymc7, yeah it'll be a whole new level alright...the credit card balance..

(I get it though, shouldn't compromise safety over $$$)

 

Glebo68,

I don't hear it at all with the engine running, car is fairly loud.

When the car isn't running you can barely hear it with the hood shut. It will only run a second to build 25 inches of vacuum then shuts off. I can pump the brakes a few times and it will run a second or two then quits. I am pretty please with it.

Kevin

 

Thank you everyone who chimed in!
Rob

 

Try a vacuum reservoir canister first. They are relatively inexpensive and should work fine as long as your vacuum signal isn't too awful low. I ran one on my roller-cammed 406 with 6-7in vacuum at idle and it worked fine. No issues. No vacuum pump needed.

 

I don't think a hydro-boost with a dual master will clear the shock tower on a stock front end 62-67.
If you know of one that will fit, let me know the brand. Thanks.

 

I don't think a hydro-boost with a dual master will clear the shock tower on a stock front end 62-67.
If you know of one that will fit, let me know the brand. Thanks.

I believe to use hydroboost you need to have an aftermarket front clip.

 

I have a GM vacuum pump and an aftermarket canister that I mounted in the left fender area against the firewall. I then installed a bulkhead through the side panel to my booster, I get 28 in. vacuum all the time even if the engine dies.

 

I tried a canister reservoir and it didn’t help. What electric vacuum pump do you guys recommend? Hopefully something quiet.
Thanks,
Rob

 

I'm running a vacuum canister and it works pretty good. Before I was around 6-7"of vacuum, now I'm around 15"-20" of vacuum.

 

I got 17 and it’s not enough for my car. I need a pump. Canister was no help. Tried it today.

Thanks.
Rob

 

I got 17 and it’s not enough for my car. I need a pump. Canister was no help. Tried it today.

Thanks.
Rob

Rob,

This is exactly like the system I am using. I can hear it in the car without it running, but it only takes a second or two to reach 25 inches of vacuum then stops. Cant hear it at all with the engine running. Well worth it. Its nice having brakes when you need them, LOL.

I hope this helps.

Kevin

 

Some people like the sound and the heck with the ultimite performance

 

You got that right !!!

 

Ernietech and Laser-Red-Nova,

I am just trying to help another Nova guy out with his problem. Sorry I didn't discuss my cam selection with you two genius's who seem to know better than us 17 year old attention getters.

Rjwz28 you should be thankful that they are setting you straight by recommending that you spend $500 - $700 dollars on a major job as a cam swap vs. $200 for a vacuum pump you can do in about an hours time, and teaching you not to act like a child at the same time.

Kevin

 

Wow I got the chevy "hot cam" in my 350 roller and have 15" of vacuum, and my brakes work good, with no pump or canister.

 

Awesome for you! Unfortunately 17” doesn’t work for me. I wish I was as fortunate. Been dealing with this since January.
Rob

 

I also thought that 17” of vacuum should be sufficient but in my case with 4 wheel discs I still have pedal problems. This problem has been there since day one. This is a brand new build with everything new. 9” booster with 1.125” bore master with proportionate valve with discs. All new hard lines. And I already changed 3 boosters and 3 masters. Also changed my rear discs to Wilwood ones. My car has 60 miles on it now.
So back to my problem. My pedal goes down a couple inches and stops the car 90% of the time with moderate pedal effort. But once in a while when I am coming to a stop or idling the pedal will get real easy and go down a couple of inches further down! So after all I’ve tried I’m wondering if that 90% of the time I feel the pedal it is really only mildly helped by the vacuum assist and when I feel it go way down it is now power assisted like how it should be all the time? That’s why I think I need more vacuum even though I have 17”. So I’m trying anything to boost my vacuum. And the canister didn’t work so I’m looking at a pump.
That’s my story.
Rob

 

Better check your master cylinder, Sounds like it is bleeding by internaly

 

Like I said I went through 3 masters. Not the master.

 

If you're low on vacuum the pedal should get hard when pushing down. Sounds like you have an air pocket somewhere. Before I got my vacuum canister my pedal would be hard to push down and had trouble stopping the car. Soft pedal seems there's air in the system.

 

Thanks. I’ve bled my brakes over a dozen times. Even reverse bled them with the same results.
Rob

 

Without getting into cam debates and inches of vacuum and just answering your question; vacuum pumps suck (literally). They are noisy, a pain to hide, need wiring and relays (to be done right), I know because I had the same issue on my Chevelle. I finally broke down and bought a Hydratech hydroboost system and problem was permanently solved, there was actually a guy on this site selling one for a pretty good price a short time ago.

 

Rjwz28,

I just looked back at your 1st posting of your brake problems. New 4 wheel disc system, new master, booster, proportioning valve etc. When you say the brakes work fine for a little bit then kinda fade away, is it possible that it may be heat related and the lines are swelling when the fluid gets hot causing the fade? If there are no internal and external leaks and everything is new, the pressure is going somewhere causing the fade. Brake fluid, like any other fluid will always take the path of least resistance. It may be easier for the fluid to swell the lines (when hot) rather than applying the brakes. Just a thought.

Kevin

 

Thanks Kevin.

 

Rjwz28,

Where are you at with your brake problem? Have you resolved it yet?

Kevin