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Well, after 10 years and over 40,000 street miles, my 700HP rated Be-Cool rad has finally given up. I flushed anti-freeze at least every 2 years, but I guess from all the heat cycles, and general electrolysis it finally has gone, cores to tank small welds and multiple spots not just one area weap and leak.
I am getting it temp fixed and ordering a new one, but think I will invest in a sacrifical zinc anode Flex-a-lite sells one for 15.00 and it installs in the drain petcock location.
The temp welding fix will remove a couple of the top rows, and one bottom , and at 630 plus HP with the A/C on, its in repaired shape will just not cut the heat this summer.
Not bad I guess for 10 years use, but if I would have done the anode thing, maybe I would still be OK. Advise coming from a guy who thinks he knows everything, hahahahah. I can see a few of you rolling on the floor now, hahahahaha .
So thought I would inform you guys will alum rads, its a cheap way of stopping the Galvanic action.
Its not for sale, its in too ruff a shape, all of the tank to core welds must be paper thin if a few are leaking.
 

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Nothing lasts forever. It did it's job. It's time to be recycled into a flashlight or something. :D
 

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gramps your so tight if you back up to a wall you'll suck out a brick,,congrats on putting 40,000 miles on a hotrod though
 

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Pat, if you haven't ordered one already, here's an aluminum rad to consider. Frank at www.gpsuperstore.com and www.prodigycustoms.com has a couple different ones they are using now. Here's a couple links to check out: http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=19143 http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=18393
I'll be ordering one of these from him when I get to that point. I'm not sure what you were looking to spend on a rad, but knowing you it wasn't going to be the Summit special.
 

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gramps your so tight if you back up to a wall you'll suck out a brick,,congrats on putting 40,000 miles on a hotrod though
That was funny. On another note Gramps sure is generous with his advice though. I think we all have a few email novels from him on a topic or two. :D
 

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Pat, if you haven't ordered one already, here's an aluminum rad to consider. Frank at www.gpsuperstore.com and www.prodigycustoms.com has a couple different ones they are using now. Here's a couple links to check out: http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=19143 http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=18393
I'll be ordering one of these from him when I get to that point. I'm not sure what you were looking to spend on a rad, but knowing you it wasn't going to be the Summit special.
Thanks Mike for the links.
I went tight and cheap and fixed the rad. It was not as bad as it looked, and all that needed welding was the top tubes. Frank pointed out at Toms show due to air pockets at the top of the rad, that top row usually rots out 1st, and that is exactly what it did . Richardsons's Rad welded that top row shut, charged 75.00 with taxes, pressure tested and warranty for a year, so why buy a new one. The Alum welder said it will be ok for at least a few more years as is, so I am leaving it for now. Be-Cool rads are all welded seams, not epoxy as most are, that is why the alum guy said its probably good a for many more years.
The small leaks made the rad impossible to get a proper pressure seal. Now that its sealed, the temp with fans on, A/C on stuck in traffic, or beating on it hard, it never goes above 180.
Cross flow 2 core, twin fan system is rated for 700HP, and at 640HP you would think turning on the A/C would overload the rad, but nope, its fine.

While the rad was out, I spent 2 hours polishing it back to the luster it had 10 years ago, so, I am a happy camper.
thmpsn70 your right, what a cheep azz i am, polishing 10 year old parts up.
I guess that's how I can afford a 650HP SMALL BLOCK.
 
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