This sounds like what I was asking for. Thanks!I'm not saying it's the right way, but it's the way I did it, and it worked.
I centered the steering. As the pitman on a '62-'66 only goes on one way really, I turned the steering wheel lock to the left, then lock to the right, and counted turns. I forget the number (it's not even, to be sure) but then I halved that, and returned the steering wheel to that position that was HALF the total turns. In my case, the steering wheel was NOT in a level, centered position, but the steering shaft was halfway. I also used some ratcheting tie downs to keep the steering wheel in that position.
For each of the tie rod ends, I started each of them in the threaded link with clamps loosened, and turned them 10 full turns each. I put the car on the ground and tried the best I could to line up the wheels dead straight ahead (best done on an alignment rack, but I did it in the garage). With the wheels dead straight ahead, I measured the center of the tie rod end hole on the steering knuckle to the corresponding hole on the center link, and I did that on each side. I tried to be as precise as I could, just to be in the neighborhood. Won't take the place of an alignment, but it's a starting point.
I then took the left tie rod assembly and turned each tie rod in 1 turn until the distance was as close to the measured distance between the holes the tie rod ends would fit in, then installed them, just snug, not tightened.
This got me close. I checked the wheels for 'straight ahead' again by measuring the front edge of the tires and comparing that to the trailing edge of the tires, and then tightened the tie rod end nuts.
I had to take it to be aligned properly, but this got me in the ballpark. After the alignment, I ended up having to remove the steering wheel and re-install it so that it was level when the car was headed straight ahead. The left turn angle and right turn angle are pretty darned close to the same each side.