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Discussion Starter #1
It reads a constant full.

I don't think it's grounding problem. My battery is in the trunk and I took the sending wire and grounded it right to the neg terminal. No change.

I unhooked the sending unit wire, and it goes to empty.

I checked continuity at sending unit wire and a ground, continuity is zero.

So, went out and bought a $20 gauge, hooked it up to the sending unit, my battery negative and the battery positive, turned the key and it runs to full.

Before I drop the tank, can I be safe to conclude it's the unit itself?

Am I missing anything?

Thanks
 

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My 68 had a gas gauge problem too, always reading full. So I grounded the wire leading from the gas tank (located in the trunk by latch) and this caused the gauge to drop to empty tank so I knew the gauge was working so next we replaced the fuel tank sending unit and it fixed it. I guess the stock sending unit finally gave out and read a constant open circuit (no resistance).
 

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It reads a constant full.

I don't think it's grounding problem. My battery is in the trunk and I took the sending wire and grounded it right to the neg terminal. No change.

I unhooked the sending unit wire, and it goes to empty.

I checked continuity at sending unit wire and a ground, continuity is zero.

So, went out and bought a $20 gauge, hooked it up to the sending unit, my battery negative and the battery positive, turned the key and it runs to full.

Before I drop the tank, can I be safe to conclude it's the unit itself?

Am I missing anything?

Thanks
When I worked for GM years ago the range was 0 - 90 ohms. If there was an open circuit, "wire disconnected at sender" the fuel gage read over full.

I found this info that should help:

http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=results/category_id=159/mode=cat/cat159.htm
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Finally got a chance to get back to the always full gauge, and discovered the gauge was a 240-33 ohm, which didn't match the sending unit.


All good now.

Thanks everyone.
 
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