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Discussion Starter #1
My head lights flicker real bad when my cars running. It gets worse the more I accelerate. I found out that my tail lights and side markers also fade in and out as I accelerate. I dont want a ticket from the towns finest:no:

Any ideas what i should look for? or at?

Happy Thanksgiving!!:turkey:
 

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Check your grounds, headlight switch, maybe even your altenator may not be giving enough juice. :confused: Good luck. if u figure it out let us know.:turn:
 

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The alternator voltage may be going high then low creating a flicker or it may even be a connection at the bulkhead connector.

I would also use a decent volt/ohm meter to see what might be going on.

Also check to make sure you have a good ground between the battery negative post and the body of the car and/or one from the engine block to the body of the car.

Jim
 

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never thought about the alternator ill have to take a look at it. My uncle has the same engine but he put it into a 66 step side. i was taking a look at his grounds and he has two, one to the body and one to the engine. If I also had two do you think that would help. If my wires are old would this be a cause as well?? there original...any of you guys had to replace your wires because of age??
 

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elect problem

First check all your grounds, make sure the ground from the engine to the firewall is good, that is the one for the gauges, and then ground to battery and gound to frame as the engine is on rubber mounts then check charging system for 13.8 volts minimum at idle with the headlights on at least for a load. make sure the cable ends at battery aren't swollen with corrosion also and the posts are clean then check the condition of the battery also, if it is an ollder battery even if the charging system is all good it the car is supposed to run off the battery and the alt will replenish the battery as it is being used so if batt is too old it won't take a charge properly and will try and run off the alternator itself and will vary in it's charging. If not sure most auto stores will do a load test on battery if older than 5 years just replace it as it will sulfate (corrode on the cells) and not take a proper charge.:D
 

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never thought about the alternator ill have to take a look at it. My uncle has the same engine but he put it into a 66 step side. i was taking a look at his grounds and he has two, one to the body and one to the engine. If I also had two do you think that would help. If my wires are old would this be a cause as well?? there original...any of you guys had to replace your wires because of age??
An alternator can have no output to where the car is running or powering things off of the battery and let's say that voltage is 12 volts and the lights will have so much brightness. When the alternator has enough output then to charge the battery and also power other things the alternator puts out let's say 13 to 14 volts. Now with this higher voltage the lights will be brighter.
An alternator requires power to drive it and if it's drive belt is loose and slipping sometimes the alternator will produce the higher voltage and then sometimes not produce enough and with this fluctuating voltage things like the headlights will be brighter, then dimmer.

As far as grounds, you can never have too many. Think about things in that there is a big ground from the battery to the engine and the starter and alternator are grounded to the motor. The motor and transmission are on rubber mounts so they are not tied electrically to the body of the car so an added ground between the engine and the body needs to be in place and/or a ground from the battery negative terminal and the body of the car needs to be in place. There are poor grounds already like through the shifter cable and emergency brake cables but they are poor and not ideal.

Old connections could be good, poor, or bad. Most terminal connections on a car are crimped on and after time and depending on the life it's led can have corrosion occur and it works it's way into the connection making it poor or bad. It might be solid mechanically but electrically poor.

Jim
 

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I had the EXACT same problem in my 84 camaro a few years back, The voltage regulator ended up being the problem. The good thing is you can replace just the regulator, but I would also suggest putting a set of brushes in too. Good Luck!
 

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if everythings working fine and it seems to be just a headlight issue then i would check headlamp ground,and related conections,
i had this issue many years ago and it was the headlight ground corroded
 

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Discussion Starter #10
well ive been working alot but i got the alternated tested and its holding at 14, however i didnt have the lights on so ill do another test with the lights on this time!

I think it might be the regulator. my grounds seem ok a lil dirty so ill be cleaning em up after the rains let up before i rule anything out.

I drove it today and noticed my oil light blinking and my brake light on(it usually flickers a bit think its a ground, at least it was in my old mercedes). anyways, I checked the oil and its clean and full, didnt pay much mind as it only happened when i came to a stop. it started to rain so i hit my wipers and the oil light flickered as well as my blinker lights(in dash only i think), it got darker and i hit my lights and every other stop light, my car would die??? on the way home i noticed my gauges fluctuated alot, gas was going from empty to full(had half tank) and other gauges doing the same?? any Ideas about this..
 

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I would have a load test done on the battery, sounds like it is running on charging system (alt) and not running on battery as it is supposed too so when idling the alt won't put out as much because of full load without the alt spinning up to help charge the battery. basically a system should run off the battery and the alt refills the battery as it is being used and adjusts per load as how much it charges (load). So less load off idle and more load at idle as alt can't quite keep up. So long story have a load test on battery to see if you have a bad cell, i change my battery every 5 years as they sulfate inside and won't except a charge as would a new battery and harder on alt to charge.:D
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I would have a load test done on the battery, sounds like it is running on charging system (alt) and not running on battery as it is supposed too so when idling the alt won't put out as much because of full load without the alt spinning up to help charge the battery. basically a system should run off the battery and the alt refills the battery as it is being used and adjusts per load as how much it charges (load). So less load off idle and more load at idle as alt can't quite keep up. So long story have a load test on battery to see if you have a bad cell, i change my battery every 5 years as they sulfate inside and won't except a charge as would a new battery and harder on alt to charge.:D
Sweet sounds good, ill get my bat tested, restest my alt with a load(head lights on), clean up my grounds and hopefully that will do, shes in my driveway till i get some time dont want anything else to happen yesturday was a horrible day one mishap after another. ripped off front lisence plate, crack my plastic gaurd under my front bumper, passenger door wont close fully and stay closed and electrical got worse...so ima leave her alone today haha she seems to be a lil mad
 

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There are days like that, when I was a kid and working on rear brakes on my 69 Mustang out in the early winter snow I dropped some brake parts in the snow and had a hard time finding them and slammed the drivers door and the side glass blew out then I kicked the door and caved it in, learned a "lot" that day, no more temper working on anything afer that. Was time to go in the house too.:yes:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
There are days like that, when I was a kid and working on rear brakes on my 69 Mustang out in the early winter snow I dropped some brake parts in the snow and had a hard time finding them and slammed the drivers door and the side glass blew out then I kicked the door and caved it in, learned a "lot" that day, no more temper working on anything afer that. Was time to go in the house too.:yes:
hahaha im learning the same now. bloody knuckles and an angry head doesnt help fix any problems! got off early so its time to get greasy!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
hmm?

well tested the battery and its good, full charge, no corrosion on wires either.

so alts good and batterys good.... maybe a shorted wire??:bored:
 

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I would still have the alternator and the internal regulator tested, not just on the basis of a charged battery. Of course, bad grounds or bad positives have to be checked too. Maybe a number of problems are adding up, a dirty bulkhead connector here, plus a failed lamp ground somewhere, some cables that look good but are corroded, a dirty fuse box, dirty dash connector...

My 77 had been parked for 20 years with very lo miles and believe me, not a single dash lamp, warning lamp or gauge was working. Nor the dome, horn, taillights, backups, etc. The wiring was perfect, but I had to clean and file every single connector and contact surface to make it all come back to life. The alternator and starter had to be rebuilt, batt cables replaced, regulator worked awhile then had to be replaced, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
had the alt tested but where can I get the internal regulater tested? Autozone did the battery and the alternator the other day at both seem to be fine according to there device.

got another free day tomorrow so ima pull my bench seat and crawl under my dash. see what i can see:yes:

I seen a box with maybe 10 - 15 wires going in to it on the left side of my steering colum. how would i check that and all those wires? I have a volt meter ..
 

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If your alternator was fully checked then the regulator is good. Cleaning and filing all contacts is a painstaking process and theres no particular place to start.
Id chcek fuses and fuse clamps, the dash ground that is screwed on near the parking brake, tighten connectors, probably remove the dash and clean all contacts and bulbs, then reconnect tightly, etc. The headlight switch should be removed and cleaned, same for dome contacts, wipers, etc... In the dash all black cables are grounds, all gray cables and some orange cabbles are dash illumination positives...

In the engine side remove, clean and tighten all positive cables at the battery, starter, etc. The engine grounds, the battery grounds, headlamp grounds are screwed on the rad support near the headlamp buckets...
 
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