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So I been reading allot on these rustoleum paint jobs, even members here have done it on theyre nova's. Ive decided to try it on my Nova. seeing that that the car will take maybe 3-4 years before it goes to the body shop. the body has been preped all rust has been cut out and replaced, bondoed were its needed etc etc. Will rustoluem last 3-4 maybe 5 years :confused:LOL?
I want to flat black the car. I painted the fenders, hood and doors with rustoleum flat black rattle cans but I did not like the spray marks? So I guess what im trying to get at is if I buy one of those cheap harbor freight HVLP guns could it be done in my garage and not get the spray marks?
How would I go about mixing rustoleum paint? how much should I mix, how would get it to the propper consistency, would I use mineral spirits, thinner? I have never painted a car before. Its either sink or swim with the paint job but Im going to do it! I need advice! saturday is D Day with the rustoleum! :eek:
 

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It has been so long since I did it, but I used rustoleum on a boat trailer once. I definately lasted longer than 5 years. I seem to remember thining it a little to get it to spray. I used a regular spray gun from HF. Paint came out nicer than the original paint on the trailer.
 

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I know a guy that paints all of his cars with Frazee house paint, and they last years, but he keeps them in the garage. I don't doubt that the paint will stick if prepped properly, I would be worried about how it would weather. Are you keeping the car indoors, outdoors, in the shade, in direct sunlight, or somewhere else?

You might get a lot of different answers on the paint gun, but I use a $50 HVLP gun that I got at the Pomona swap meet with a lot of success.
 

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So I been reading allot on these rustoleum paint jobs, even members here have done it on theyre nova's. Ive decided to try it on my Nova. seeing that that the car will take maybe 3-4 years before it goes to the body shop. the body has been preped all rust has been cut out and replaced, bondoed were its needed etc etc. Will rustoluem last 3-4 maybe 5 years :confused:LOL?
I want to flat black the car. I painted the fenders, hood and doors with rustoleum flat black rattle cans but I did not like the spray marks? So I guess what im trying to get at is if I buy one of those cheap harbor freight HVLP guns could it be done in my garage and not get the spray marks?
How would I go about mixing rustoleum paint? how much should I mix, how would get it to the propper consistency, would I use mineral spirits, thinner? I have never painted a car before. Its either sink or swim with the paint job but Im going to do it! I need advice! saturday is D Day with the rustoleum! :eek:
I am not an expert on this but have a little experience that may assist. I have been working on a 73 chevy 4x4 truck and had the entire box repaired almost 4 years ago that was then sprayed with a grey epoxy primer. The box was stored outside in the elements for the entire time, all except last winter, and it survived wonderfully. By that I mean no deterioration of any kind is visible to the primer.

I have been working on a couple of trucks and have now taken to spraying rattle can etch primer on those areas that I take right down to bare metal and plan on now spraying my own epoxy primer over that.

I have purchased a HVLP spray gun to shoot the primer for under $150.00. I have not priced the epoxy primer itself but have heard it is very expensive.

So I guess what I am saying is why not just shoot the primer and leave it until you are ready to paint. It would no doubt require some touch up in the form of sanding but you could lightly sand and apply a fresh coat of primer before painting.

Someone please correct me if I am wrong on any aspect(s) of this but this is the route I am contemplating on my chevy 73 1/2 4x4 and my chevy 56 1/2 ton hot rod I am building.
 

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I am not an expert on this but have a little experience that may assist. I have been working on a 73 chevy 4x4 truck and had the entire box repaired almost 4 years ago that was then sprayed with a grey epoxy primer. The box was stored outside in the elements for the entire time, all except last winter, and it survived wonderfully. By that I mean no deterioration of any kind is visible to the primer.

I have been working on a couple of trucks and have now taken to spraying rattle can etch primer on those areas that I take right down to bare metal and plan on now spraying my own epoxy primer over that.

I have purchased a HVLP spray gun to shoot the primer for under $150.00. I have not priced the epoxy primer itself but have heard it is very expensive.

So I guess what I am saying is why not just shoot the primer and leave it until you are ready to paint. It would no doubt require some touch up in the form of sanding but you could lightly sand and apply a fresh coat of primer before painting.

Someone please correct me if I am wrong on any aspect(s) of this but this is the route I am contemplating on my chevy 73 1/2 4x4 and my chevy 56 1/2 ton hot rod I am building.

Well I know epoxy paint is very expensive! And I have never painted a car before So I dont want to spend over $100 on epoxy primer when a gallon of flat black rustoleum is 29.99 at home depot mineral spirit is 9.99car is going to get painted with less than $50!!
Body shop can use epoxy primer when I send it to the shop for now rustoleum will have to do! That Is why im asking for tips! ::cool:
 

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I just finished my rustoleum paint job a couple days ago, all i have left to do is paint the door jams then wetsand and polish it:

Before


After


I rolled it on with a 4" high density foam roller.
I myself can not personally say how it will turn out spraying it with a gun, but i heard it comes out even better then rolling it.

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1

That link is an amazing source of information, packed with ppl trying different techniques, paint, thinners, polishes, and is chalk full of ppl making mistakes, so i STRONGLY suggest you read atleast the first 22 page in it's entirety.

Also, i cannot stress this enough...

PRACTICE, PRACTICE, AND THEN PRACTICE ON A SCRAP PIECE OF METAL BEFORE YOU EVEN THINK ABOUT TOUCHING YOUR CAR!!

I wish i would have, i got in 6 coats (that's 3 days of hard work, painting and wetsanding) and had to sand it all down and start over because i thinned it out way to much and painted in the middle of the day in 100 degree, California summer weather (always paint either early morning or late evening) and all i had was runny paint dripping down my car. Lol my car looks alright but im gonna continue to practice on a piece of scrap metal until i get the technique down and then eventually do my car over, piece by piece.

So like i said, dont be a moron like me and paint your whole car before you get the technique done, i quarentee you will regret it.

Sry, im ranting and i havent answered your original question. The guy that painted his charger in the above link has cars that he has painted with rustoleum over 6 years ago and they still look as good as ever.

Here's a walk around video of my car, i was trying to record my exhaust but my phone didnt pick it up very well.

http://s1261.photobucket.com/albums...tion=view&current=2012-08-24_09-24-41_732.mp4

Chris
 

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Don't know if this will help or not but usually automotive paints will have a product information sheet that will provide thinning suggestions etc that can be used to answer your questions. See if you can find such a thing online for that paint.

And yes do practice before you spray the car.
 

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I did the "$50 Paint Job" on my T-Bird for shirts and gurgles and it actually came out pretty good. I did it like calinova69 and rolled it with a 4" high density roller. For me the trick was getting the mix right. As long as you get the correct consistency you'll get minimal orange peel, meaning less wet sanding, as the paint will self level before it flashes off and starts to harden. It should be the consistency of milk. Liquidy but with a hint of thickness to it. Also, you got to get it on quick so that the mineral spirits don't start to evaporate and change the consistency of the mix. That is key.

Keep in mind that the better the prep the better the paint job. I'm sure if you spray it it'll look even better than rolling it but mine looked pretty good even with a roller. Wait until you buff it out. Then it will really shine!!:yes:

John
 

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John's absolutely right, getting the paint mixture down is the most important part. For me, 60% paint 40% mineral spirits, while painting in about 80 degree weather, gave me the best results with know runs or orange peel, but experiment with it. Different colors have different consistences. I never used flat black so im not sure about the mix ratio.

This is the process in it's entirety for ROLLING the paint on, the 60/40 mix is also for rolling. Since your still asking how the process goes, im assuming you havent even read the first page of the link i gave you... anyways, there are ppl on there that have sprayed it and they detail that process.

Sand the surface down with 600 or lower grit sandpaper, clean surface with mineral spirits, let dry, then clean with tack cloth.

Apply 1 coat in the morning and then another in the evening, let dry over night.

Next morning, wetsand with 800 grit sandpaper, clean with spirits, then tack, apply coat in morning, another in evening.

Next day, wetsand with 1000, clean, 1 coat morning, 1 evening.

The next morning your paint should have self leveled completely and look pretty damn good if you did everything right and took your time wetsanding and painting.

The nexted thing to do is wetsand and polish, this is where i am at and im hesitant to wetsand my glossy paint, but your goin for flat black, so you dont have to worry about it.

Chris
 

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Painting with Rust-Oleum is pretty much like painting with any other enamel. I spray mine with a conventional gun (siphon). I thin mine either with mineral spirits or Rust-Oleums own thinner if it can be found. Don't use the odorless stuff. I thin mine approxiamately 33%. To thin its going to run, to thick and it isn't going to lay out right. Run it through a paper paint filter, just like any other paint.
Like regular enamel, you'll need to let it flash off between coats. Usually 15-20 minutes, so it gets a little tacky before laying down the next coat.
When I clean up the gun after painting, I take it outside and wash the cup out in gasoline. Cuts it out way faster than mineral spirits will. Then I'll put a little in the cup and spray through the gun ect....., to finish up then I wash the gun and cup out with lacquer thinner.
You'll need to lay down probably 3 coats. 1st coat kind of light (see through), let tack up then lay down a heavier coat. I'd practice a bit on something other than the car to get a feel for it..... Don't want a bunch of sags and runs on your car or a sandpaper finish......
Then your going to probably have to leave it for about 6 months to fully cure. Then next spring you can use a little rubbing compound and polish to give it a more mirror like finish and also keeping it waxed will help durability.

John
 

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I did mine with a grey enamel. 2 qts of smoke grey on top of white primer and 'practice body work:eek:.'

As for thinning it, the guy I was painting it with would just throw some acetone in the paint can of a binks knock off gun to thin it out a little. No 'metering' just a bunch of eyeballing. I have heard thin to the consistency of milk.

You can read till your eyes bleed, and if your like me, you did, and still dont understand it. The only way I could really get the feel for it was to grab a sander and go to town on it. :yes:

Mine is by no means a professional job here either, just to seal it up till I am ready to really do the body.
 
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