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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,

I noticed today that it appears that the shop that installed my Edelbrock 1406 w/electric choke carburetor wired it directly to the BAT terminal on my HEI distributor. The only red wire going into the distributor BAT terminal is coming directly from the carb.

From what I've read this is a no-no as the choke will draw too much power, leaving the distributor without enough to start the car.

Could this be what's causing my car to turn over but not start? I've spent a week now trying to figure this out with no luck (http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=188923).

If the wiring needs to be redone, would there be a good tutorial somewhere that breaks it down to the simplest level? This is pretty much stretching the limits of my meager capabilities.
 

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I would say yes, if you poke your head under the dash and peak at the fuse box, you should see a terminal post in the center of the fuse box. This terminal should become energized with the key on only, use a test light to verify this, then you can run a lead from the box through the firewall with a grommet and connect it to the electric choke. An in line fuse, is also a good idea too.:yes:
 

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Here's what I would do if I thought the addition of the choke wiring onto the HEI's power wiring was a problem would be to unplug the choke and see what happens.

Since the electric choke will open up after a particular time the engine may not run long with the choke being closed so if you want it to run a while and have the choke operating you would have to get power for the choke from some other place.

Another thing I've seen before is not having power to the HEI when the engine is cranking over. When this happens you are cranking over the engine and it doesn't fire but if it's turning fast enough and the key is then put into the run position the engine then fires up. The HEI needs power to the BAT terminal when the key is in the run position AND in the crank position. I would test to make sure the HEI has power in both of these key positions.

Jim
 

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Your HEI B+ wire must be a dedicated wire. Wiring anything to this circuit will prevent you from starting the car, eventually.
Since the choke is "on" the whole time the ignition is on, the electric choke should be connected to a fused ignition circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Your HEI B+ wire must be a dedicated wire. Wiring anything to this circuit will prevent you from starting the car, eventually.
Since the choke is "on" the whole time the ignition is on, the electric choke should be connected to a fused ignition circuit.
I've never done anything remotely like this so I have some basic questions:

I've read that the windshield wiper wire is a good option to tap into, would that be accurate? And is it just a matter of splicing the wires together? The wipers are fused right? So I wouldn't need to install an in-line fuse for this would I?

Thanks!
 

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best bet is to use a continuity tester and check the fuse box as directed previously by Taz...
First off, "What Flyer & Taz Said!"

But yes, the yellow wire is hot w/ the ignition on. My sister-in-laws '66 Caprice has the Turbo 400 kick-down wire connected to that yellow wire.

As far as fusing it. Fuses are usually rated 1 1/2 times more than the required circuit. Hypothetically, If the wipers have a 10 amp fuse, the circuit will be pulling about 7 amps. If you add the choke to the circuit and it pulls about 5 amps, then you just exceeded the 10 amp fuse.
So, if you wire the choke to the wiper power, then you would need to increase the fuse to 20 amps since 18 amp fuses are not available. (7a+5a= 12a and 1/2 of 12 is 6, so 12a+6a=18A) Your at your limit!

Now with that said, you should consider the size of the yellow wire. My diagrams are telling me it's an 18 gauge wire and the maximum amperage is about 18 amps. http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

Personaly I would run a seperate wire from the fuse block, from the IGN tap, use an inline fuse 1 1/2 times the load or what the manufacture recommends for the choke.

Hope this helps, There is a wealth of knowledge here on this site. Just keep asking the questions, we're all here to help!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
First off, "What Flyer & Taz Said!"

But yes, the yellow wire is hot w/ the ignition on. My sister-in-laws '66 Caprice has the Turbo 400 kick-down wire connected to that yellow wire.

Personaly I would run a seperate wire from the fuse block, from the IGN tap, use an inline fuse 1 1/2 times the load or what the manufacture recommends for the choke.

Hope this helps, There is a wealth of knowledge here on this site. Just keep asking the questions, we're all here to help!
Thanks for the info. I tested the IGN on the fuse block and it's hot when ignition is on and dead when it's off.

Also, as a test, I unhooked the red wire that was going from the choke to the BAT terminal on the distributor and routed it direct to the positive terminal on the battery. I cranked the key and the car fired right up! It sounds like I'm on the home stretch.

Now, I'm trying to decide whether to wire the choke to the wiper motor or to the IGN terminal on the fuse box. I don't have a clue of how to get through the firewall. The main fuse area has a bunch of wires entering the firewall, but it's jam-packed and accessing it will be very difficult. The wiper motor sounds easier, but I haven't determined where exactly it is and its wiring is, so I'm at a standstill at the moment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I found the wiper motor and identified the wire that's on when the ignition is on. I also found a potential access spot in the firewall. After the holiday I'll see if I can route the choke wire through there and attach to the IGN terminal on the fuse box.

At least I was able to start the car tonight! That's a small X-Mas present in itself!

I'll post an update next week.

Happy Holidays!
 

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Make sure you use a rubber grommet if you go through anything metal.
You also could find a large stock grommet. Drill a small hole next to the other wires, just big enough to push a the wire through. Don't hit metal firewall or other wires. :)
 

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I would wire it the same way the factory did it which is through an oil pressure activated switch. This prevents the choke from opening until the engine is actually running. Typically the port just above the oil filter is used. You can use a 3 wire switch if you want to incorporate an oil pressure warning light in the system as well.



Steve
 
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