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Shane, we used to drill the holes for the steam on the gaskets that didn't have them, is this not possible on these?
 

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I run the 1004 gasket on my 4.155” bore 421. I don’t have steam holes in my AFR heads, gaskets or the dart block. My machinist told me years ago that he’s built many of 400 based builds over the years without drilling steam holes and never had an issue. I’ve done 3 builds off a 400 block now (406-421-434) without steam holes. All 3 engines run 190 or cooler on the hottest days.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
My block has the steam holes and the heads are now drilled for the steam holes too. Mine's a 421 too. I drilled the steam holes using the previous head gaskets when I had iron heads on them. I may have to use the 1004 gaskets and drill the steam holes. Since the block has the steam holes I think I would need to use them.
 

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Discussion Starter #6

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Quench and bore doesn’t matter. If the head manufacturer calls for a specific head gasket then you need to use it. Most times it is the size of the chamber that dictates the head gasket. With big valve heads the sides of the chamber flare out and the gasket has to fit that. If you fit the gasket to the bore only and the gasket doesn’t fit the chamber the area of the gasket behind the fire ring can be exposed.
 

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Quench and bore doesn’t matter..
You are sadly mistaken if you think quench doesn't matter! Quench is very important to proper engine performance, detonation, tuning and octane required for maximum power. You should educate yourself to what proper quench can do for an engine.

Mike
 

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You are sadly mistaken if you think quench doesn't matter! Quench is very important to proper engine performance, detonation, tuning and octane required for maximum power. You should educate yourself to what proper quench can do for an engine.

Mike
Sorry I will have to learn.
 

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Quench and bore doesn’t matter. If the head manufacturer calls for a specific head gasket then you need to use it. Most times it is the size of the chamber that dictates the head gasket. With big valve heads the sides of the chamber flare out and the gasket has to fit that. If you fit the gasket to the bore only and the gasket doesn’t fit the chamber the area of the gasket behind the fire ring can be exposed.
100% correct Ray. A very reliable source (straub) told me the exact same when I built my 421....
 

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Quench and bore doesn’t matter..
You are sadly mistaken if you think quench doesn't matter! Quench is very important to proper engine performance, detonation, tuning and octane required for maximum power. You should educate yourself to what proper quench can do for an engine.
Mike
Hate to burst your bubble mike....but you obviously don’t know Bracketchev very well and his background with engines....
 

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I learned a hands on lesson in quench on my 400.I bought the engine used for pennies on the dollar but it was stout and had most of the good parts in/on it that I wanted including AFR heads,Eagle rods/crank,forged pistons,roller cam,etc.The tune was poor and it had some ping issues that were being stubborn to get rid of regardless of timing or fuel.I pulled the engine apart after a summer of running it and found they had installed unusually thick head gaskets,I'm assuming,to lower compression which opened the quench area way too much.After speaking to AFR I installed the thinner #1014 which got the quench in the mid .030's (pistons are bit out of the hole) but did raise the compression from about 11.3 to 11.7.I was skeptical especially considering the increase in compression but the difference was huge.The cam is big enough to require lots of initial timing to idle correctly but doing that had aggravated the ping trouble even using a vacuum pot pulling/adding timing.With the thinner gasket I can now run it locked out on premium pump and it's great.
 

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Hate to burst your bubble mike....but you obviously don’t know Bracketchev very well and his background with engines....
66II, I hate to burst your bubble but you obviously don't know my background either. I built my first engine in 1969 at 17yrs old, the same year I started drag racing. I lived, breathed & ate drag racing for many years, raced all over the southeast including racing in NHRA SS/FA. I have pix of my 6yr old daughter in the garage helping me torque the heads on a 426 Hemi, she probably knows more about building engines than you do, JMO. I don't need a resume to know that proper quench in an engine is very important, I learned that many years ago. It appears from his post 'the tree man' learned that as well.

Quit trying to burst people's bubbles, open your mind to new & different things, do your research, open a book or two instead of relying of here say on forums & groups and you just might learn something new!

Mike
 

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Hate to burst your bubble mike....but you obviously don’t know Bracketchev very well and his background with engines....
66II, I hate to burst your bubble but you obviously don't know my background either. I built my first engine in 1969 at 17yrs old, the same year I started drag racing. I lived, breathed & ate drag racing for many years, raced all over the southeast including racing in NHRA SS/FA. I have pix of my 6yr old daughter in the garage helping me torque the heads on a 426 Hemi, she probably knows more about building engines than you do, JMO. I don't need a resume to know that proper quench in an engine is very important, I learned that many years ago. It appears from his post 'the tree man' learned that as well.

Quit trying to burst people's bubbles, open your mind to new & different things, do your research, open a book or two instead of relying of here say on forums & groups and you just might learn something new!

Mike
Not trying to start any drama. Just stating that Ray knows a thing or two. Obviously not as smart as you I guess. Heck I bet nobody knows as much as you do. My shop and my work has some pretty darn good work turn out and reviews. But anyway. I don’t want to jump all over this thread.
 
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