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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys,

I'm attempting to wire up a push button start and a few other accessories on a switch panel, and I need a 12v constant. Where would you recommend I pull this? Is there a wire on the ignition switch that I can use for 12v constant without it messing anything else up? See the attached photo.

I tested everything to make sure it works by pulling 12v constant from the fuse panel. This was just for testing. Everything seems to work OK. However, I can't use the fuse panel for power because all of the slots are taken for various other things.

I'm admittedly a newb so any solid recommendations I would appreciate.

Thanks in advance!
 

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You can put it directly from 12v battery power and skip the key switch altogether. When you push the switch the starter will engage but unless the key switch is on the engine won't start.
 

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Hey guys,

I'm attempting to wire up a push button start and a few other accessories on a switch panel, and I need a 12v constant. Where would you recommend I pull this? Is there a wire on the ignition switch that I can use for 12v constant without it messing anything else up?

I tested everything to make sure it works by pulling 12v constant from the fuse panel. This was just for testing. Everything seems to work OK. However, I can't use the fuse panel for power because all of the slots are taken for various other things.

I'm admittedly a newb so any solid recommendations I would appreciate.

Thanks in advance!
A solid recommendation is to do some math and figure out if what you are adding could overload what is already in place. I would love to say what you are adding will not be an issue but I cannot say that due to lack of information. Adding a push button start should balance out and cancel you not using the original start load BUT these few other accessories you are wanting to add may be a minimal load or a large load (minimal load like a switch activated trunk release or a large load like large dual cooling system electrical fans).

You may want to get the new power at the battery and then add the proper protection device on the wire close to the battery that feeds the new panel.

You may too find out that adding a lot of stuff off of the battery positive post that an upgrade on the ground wiring also needs to be done.

All I can say is make it safe with properly routed wiring and protecting the wiring at the source of power.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #4
You can put it directly from 12v battery power and skip the key switch altogether. When you push the switch the starter will engage but unless the key switch is on the engine won't start.
Mike, thanks for the recommendation. I’ve been told in the past to try not to run many things directly from the battery - not exactly sure why. I currently have main power, electric fan, radio amp and the starter powered directly from the battery. If I also add 12v constant for the panel directly from the battery, will everything be ok?
 

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Stop connecting to the battery with out going through a fuse or fusible link or maybe you need to upgrade your fuse box. I didn't see what year your Nova was that will help also with advice. In the picture of the switch is the 12 volt and solenoild terminals that will crank the motor for the push button. You will still need to turn on the ignition switch unless you intend to make a toggle switch to power up also. Again what year and mods will help with proper advice. I ask what year because early Novas did not have fusible links in them and you really need to watch how you wire them and the placement of the wires. If you are dead set on wiring directly to the battery then Fuses are needed make sure the amperage is correct. Let me know if you need more info here or pm me. I own my 63 SS for 40 years so I understand your dellema.
 

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Mike, thanks for the recommendation. I’ve been told in the past to try not to run many things directly from the battery - not exactly sure why. I currently have main power, electric fan, radio amp and the starter powered directly from the battery. If I also add 12v constant for the panel directly from the battery, will everything be ok?
I wouldn't run any power to a device that operates while the engine is running, ( i.e. fans, pumps, stereo lights, etc, ) directly from the battery. The battery is only used to start the engine so your start switch will be powered from the battery only, regardless of where you electrically hook it up.
As for the rest of the electrical system, I would use a dedicated power distribution terminal closely wired to your alternator, like GM did with the horn relay terminal. While the engine is running, the alternator provides all of the current, so you need to wire it as such. The battery is merely another small load on the alternator while the engine is running, and the size of the charging wire reflects this.
If you design your starting circuit well there will only be a small amount of current going through your starter switch. Use a remote relay to switch the larger current for the starter solenoid, like the classic Ford relay. You could use a wire off the IGN terminal as well so the starter switch is unpowered until you turn the key on.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Stop connecting to the battery with out going through a fuse or fusible link or maybe you need to upgrade your fuse box. I didn't see what year your Nova was that will help also with advice. In the picture of the switch is the 12 volt and solenoild terminals that will crank the motor for the push button. You will still need to turn on the ignition switch unless you intend to make a toggle switch to power up also. Again what year and mods will help with proper advice. I ask what year because early Novas did not have fusible links in them and you really need to watch how you wire them and the placement of the wires. If you are dead set on wiring directly to the battery then Fuses are needed make sure the amperage is correct. Let me know if you need more info here or pm me. I own my 63 SS for 40 years so I understand your dellema.
Thanks, Neil. It's a 67 Nova.
 

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Look at the Painless Performance product no. 70114 called the CIRKIT Boss. This will really clean things up for you.
 

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1967 should have the fusible links already check by the horn relay if not put the in. If the are there you can pull your power from that but you would have to run wires into the car, If your wire harness is good then do it as i described in my earlier post right off the back of the switch with a inline fuse to protect the circuit being live. I don't know what kind of work you have done is it a stock drive train. race car etc... You should have some kind of cut off switch
 

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I would pull power from a distribution block. On Novas / Chebby IIs, that's usually the horn relay. Use the correct size wire for the load. The wire can be cleanly run under the dash via an open position in the bulkhead connector (requires one each male and female terminals), rather than finding (or drilling) a hole and using a grommet. (I've never seen a completely full bulkhead connector on anything pre-'87, except a few conversion vans and motorhomes.)
 
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