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Greg,

It looks just like mine.

Paul,

You find them on late 80's and early 90's 3.8l Ford Taurus and Mercury Sable cars. I think they're about 17 x 22, fit perfectly on an early Nova.
 

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A lot of the guys at Team Chevelle are using a two fan Ford Windstar module. One fan runs full speed all the time, and the second can be wired to do the same, or run at a slow speed or a high speed depending on the engine temperature. They swear by it.
 

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Ford Taurus Fan (removal)

I just picked up a couple of fans for $50CDN. One came out of a 3.8L, and the other was in a 3.0L. They had 5 or 6 Tauri (plural for Taurus???) in their yard and one of the 3.0L had the big fan, but all the others had the small one. With my luck the one I install will blow up or get damaged somehow so that's why I want a spare :D

Anyway, I took these badboys home and decided to take the fan off of one of them for something to do. I removed the metal clip........is that all that is required to allow the fan to be pulled off? It is quite rusty in that area and I have scraped and wire brushed around the shaft and gave it a little squirt of Releasall an hour or so ago.

Thank you in advance
 

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sometimes those fans melt on the shaft.
be careful they are a balanced design. if you take more than one apart dont mix them up.
 

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The plan was to take only the one apart to make it easier for cleaning, however I ended up cleaning one up quite well without taking the fan off. The one that did have the clip removed will need a new clip due to it being quite damaged during removal. That will be the spare one though.

Time to start collecting parts........short water pump and low alternator mount for starters, then I guess a couple new pulleys, and the necessary temperature switches, relays, controller.........I guess the install will be a winter project.
 
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Just thought I would mention something on a related note. Before my bodywork and paint were done, I drove my car for quite a while with no cowl panel. After the the cowl panel and hood insulation were installed, I noticed that the operating temperature went up noticably at idle. Years ago, I knew guys who used to drag race with the rear of the hood raised slightly higher than the cowl. They claimed it allowed hot air to escape and gave them slightly lowered their ETs. Really makes look at those cowl induction hoods differently.
 

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Electric cooling fans

Somebody please tell me about electric cooling fans in lieu of the regular fan blades. What manufacture are you using? Where and how do you wire it. What size fan for a 75 Nova radiator?

Thanks
Larry or Papas Nova
 
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First off I should say that there is not a electric fan out there with the reliability or life expectancy of a good mechanical fan. On a street car, I always recommend running mechanical fans if possible. They don't burnout or blow fuses. The engine you save maybe your own. That said, there are some applications that require an electric fan. One size does not fit all. A cooling system should be designed as a unit. First the radiator needs to be sized correctly for the engine. Next, a fan should be chosen based on displacement, horsepower, radiator dimensions, and the presence or absense of air conditioning.

I have an unusual air intake that would not clear a mechanical fan. I have a 350 with air conditioning. Due to the width of the factory radiator in my car, I could only run one 16" fan. I found that the car would get too hot at idle with AC running on a 100 degree Georgia day. I cured this by swapping the three row brass radiator to a single row aluminum radiator to increase air flow. The Perma-Cool 16" electric fan (2950 cfm/ PN: PRM-19115) is controled by a Hypertech Cooling Fan Switch (# HYP-4028) and a standard 30 amp relay. I don't like to mount a fan directly to a radiator because it causes leaks but it is important to get a good seal between the radiator and fan to maintain good airflow. This set up would not sufficently cool a larger engine but it works for my application.

I believe a '75 has a wider radiator so I would run two fans of the highest cfm available. And if somebody told you that changing from a clutch fan to an electric fan would make a huge performance improvement, they lied. If that's your goal, don't waste the money. These are the same people who say that power steering slows a car down. The truth is power steering only takes a 1/4 HP when the wheels are straight and 3 HP at full lock. It is pretty said if you aren't making enough power to sacrifice 1/4 HP.
 

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We use the Taurus fans on most of our cars, the reliability has been very good, replacement costs are minimal and there's a million of them out there. The one on our road racer has yet to turn itself on high speed.
 

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I use a 16" Summit electric fan which will probably need to be upgraded in a few months when I put my new motor in. I use aSPAL kit that I got on eBay for about $50 to turn on the fan at 185 and off at 165. But I find that once the fan goes on it doesn't shut off because my themorstat is a 180 degree themostat. I'm thinking about getting the sender for on at 195 and off at 175 and getting a different thermostat. I guess I would want a 170 degree in that case, right?

Anyway, just a few things to think about.
 

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Relay

I am looking for a timer/relay for my cooling fans. What I am having trouble with is on hot summer days my fan runs for so long when I come back sometimes the battery is very low..

I have a temp sensor in the right head that turns on the fan at 180 degrees and off at 170. I running a relay between the fan and the sensor, switch, and the ECM. All controls the fan. Well when the temp runs up to 210.. Well then the sensor wants to keep the fan running until the water gets down to 170.. So what I want to do is only let the fan run for about 2 or 3 minutes then shut off and let the engine cool down normally.. I thought about triggering the fan off a ing wire..

What do you guys think..

Mitch
 

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I have a similar setup for my electric fan. Once it gets up tp temp the fan almost never goes off. So I run the wire that goes to the sending unit through a switch, so I can shut the fan off whenever I want to.

I am also thinking about a new sender which will turn the fan off at a higher temp.
 
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I have my temperature sensor mounted in the intake manifold. The Perma-Cool 16" electric fan (2950 cfm/ PN: PRM-19115) is controled by a Hypertech Cooling Fan Switch (# HYP-4028) and a standard 30 amp relay. The fan is mounted to a aluminum radiator from a '86 Chevrolet G-Van that is intended for 4.3L V6. (It is a bolt in in a third gen Nova.) I also have a Ultima Battery. My fan will stay running after I get out of the car but I've had no problems with a drained battery. One thing you may want to check is for any air leaks between the fan and radiator. I don't like to mount a fan directly to a radiator because it has a tendancy to cause coolant leaks but it is important to get a good seal between the radiator and fan to maintain good airflow.
The ideal set up would probably be to have the sender in the radiator. That way the fan is only trying to cool the coolant in the radiator. When the water pump isn't turning, it's definitely not cooling the coolant in the engine.
 

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I'm going through the same with a customer with a 30's something Dodge truck. Our options are one of two things:

Wire the fan to an ignition source OR put the temperature sensor in the radiator.

If the temperature sensor is in the block and the engine is running the water is flowing past it and will or should work properly if designed correctly HOWEVER if you shut the motor off, what happens. The water flow stops and the engine block gets a little hotter. Now the cooling fan kicks on and cools the water in the radiator but cannot try and cool the water in the block where the temperature sensor is at since there is no water flow and if you are lucky and get it to work that way, great but the fan will only be blowing cooler air across the engine block until it can cool the water that is sitting in the motor and the temperature sensor will then turn the fan off.

On the customer of mine with the 30's Dodge he is ordering an adjustable sensor to go in the radiator and we will then take the signal wire off of the sensor in the block and connect it to that unit and then out of that unit run a wire to a ground. He could move the sensor from the block to the radiator however

On his it's more cost effective and less labor involved since the wiring for the fan cannot be easily changed from the battery to the ignition.

Jim
 
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