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best manual transmission for big block street strip application?

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HP rating, differential gearing, RPM capabilties of your engine, budget, tunnel mod or not, and intended purposes of your Nova are a few things to consider when chosing a manual transmission. The better you plan, the happier you will be.

You forgot the AutoGear M23 series to handle the 700-750HP club, she was designed from all the failures of the M22 series.

How about the Legend700 rated at 700 ft lbs, 7500 rpm shifts, and will fit the '68-'74 Nova tunnel without cutting?
 

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I do prefer the four speeds. The 2-3 shift is pretty easy compared the the five speeds.

I have beat several 5 speeds because they have gone from 2-5. Even though they have been faster cars.

I have an M20 Autogear transmission and I am quite happy with it. It is a challenge to hook at the strip but it is way more fun on the street than an automatic.

remember, real cars have three pedals.

ray

 

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Justin,
Sorry not a Nova, but I installed a T-56 Magnum in my Chevelle about 5 years ago and love it. I'm not sure what surgery is required for a Nova, but for a Chevelle, it was significant, but well worth it.
It changed the whole characteristics of the car. I have about 8000 miles on the transmission and it has been flawless. Ratios are 2.66, 1.78, 1.30, 1.00, .80, .63. With 4.56 gears, 30 inch rear tires and in 6th gear, it cruises nicely at 70 mph and a little over 2200 rpm. It's fully syncoed, very strong, shifts like a dream; very positive and has no issues shifting at 7000 rpm. I can't remember ever missing a shift with this thing. It is an LS style transmission. I went with the oem mechanical clutch z-bar setup and Quicktime bellhousing. There was some fairly major floor surgery to perform along with a modified oem crossmember (see attached links).

The beauty about the 6 speed is 5th gear is like an "in-between gear". With the camshaft I'm running, the engine is not at its "happiest" at low rpm's. I use 5th gear in what I call "back road" speeds, 45-60mph. 6th gear is for the interstate; 60+ mph. This setup gives me the best of both worlds; incredable launches with the 4.56 gears and real nice interstate cruising with fairly low rpms. :yes:


http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=357712

http://s989.photobucket.com/user/71...2&page=1&_suid=142291299450903374550132922985
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
HP rating, differential gearing, RPM capabilties of your engine, budget, tunnel mod or not, and intended purposes of your Nova are a few things to consider when chosing a manual transmission. The better you plan, the happier you will be.

You forgot the AutoGear M23 series to handle the 700-750HP club, she was designed from all the failures of the M22 series.

How about the Legend700 rated at 700 ft lbs, 7500 rpm shifts, and will fit the '68-'74 Nova tunnel without cutting?
JodysTransmissns,

Current engine output at the fly is 565hp and 595tq all before 6000rpm with a 6200rpm rev limit. I've built a pretty stout 8.2" rear end with 4.11 gears, a eaton posi and 255/70-15 BFG radial Ta's (29" tall).

I don't mind having to mod the tunnel and well far as the budget goes, I'm just going to save and get the best option instead of going for something less expensive and wanting to change it out later.

I would like to run a hydrualic clutch.

My nova is mostly going to see the street and highway, though we do have a local drag strip that I would like to take it too a few times a year.

Justin,
Sorry not a Nova, but I installed a T-56 Magnum in my Chevelle about 5 years ago and love it. I'm not sure what surgery is required for a Nova, but for a Chevelle, it was significant, but well worth it.
It changed the whole characteristics of the car. I have about 8000 miles on the transmission and it has been flawless. Ratios are 2.66, 1.78, 1.30, 1.00, .80, .63. With 4.56 gears, 30 inch rear tires and in 6th gear, it cruises nicely at 70 mph and a little over 2200 rpm. It's fully syncoed, very strong, shifts like a dream; very positive and has no issues shifting at 7000 rpm. I can't remember ever missing a shift with this thing. It is an LS style transmission. I went with the oem mechanical clutch z-bar setup and Quicktime bellhousing. There was some fairly major floor surgery to perform along with a modified oem crossmember (see attached links).

The beauty about the 6 speed is 5th gear is like an "in-between gear". With the camshaft I'm running, the engine is not at its "happiest" at low rpm's. I use 5th gear in what I call "back road" speeds, 45-60mph. 6th gear is for the interstate; 60+ mph. This setup gives me the best of both worlds; incredable launches with the 4.56 gears and real nice interstate cruising with fairly low rpms. :yes:


http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=357712

http://s989.photobucket.com/user/71...2&page=1&_suid=142291299450903374550132922985
71454Chevelle,

what's the engine specs and tire size you have?

Here's my engine dyno charts


 

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71454Chevelle,

what's the engine specs and tire size you have?
496
Scat 4340 forged crank, Eagle ESP H-beam L19 bolts
SRP forged pistons, 10.5 scr
CFM Ported Stage 5 Brodix rect port Race-Rites 310cc
Head Flow: 384cfm intake @ .700" / 250cfm exh @ .700"
Ultradyne Solid Roller 256/264 .660/.660 108 lsa
CFM Ported Victor Jr / Pro Systems HP1000
T-56 Magnum 6 Speed, DFX
12 Bolt TrueTrac, 4.56 gear 33 spline Mosier axles
30x12.5 ET Street Radial (295/65R 15)







 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
496
Scat 4340 forged crank, Eagle ESP H-beam L19 bolts
SRP forged pistons, 10.5 scr
CFM Ported Stage 5 Brodix rect port Race-Rites 310cc
Head Flow: 384cfm intake @ .700" / 250cfm exh @ .700"
Ultradyne Solid Roller 256/264 .660/.660 108 lsa
CFM Ported Victor Jr / Pro Systems HP1000
T-56 Magnum 6 Speed, DFX
12 Bolt TrueTrac, 4.56 gear 33 spline Mosier axles
30x12.5 ET Street Radial (295/65R 15)







Thats one sweet ride man ;)
 

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No love for the t5? I was thinking it would be a good fit for a mild 283 or 327 2nd gen cruiser.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
No love for the t5? I was thinking it would be a good fit for a mild 283 or 327 2nd gen cruiser.
Unfortunately I think a T5 would live for maybe a day in my nova. Heard of some issues with the strength of them.

If you have the money look at G-Force. GF-5R, with a Mckeod soft loc clutch, with a Long shifter?
Never heard of the G-force transmissions........ any good?
 

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I'm seriously thinking about a Gearvendors OD behind my M22, because there's no cutting and the price is fairly decent compared to a 5 speed conversion. In my case I would only need the driveshaft shortened, everything else is already there, so it would be very cost affective.
 

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I'm seriously thinking about a Gearvendors OD behind my M22, because there's no cutting and the price is fairly decent compared to a 5 speed conversion. In my case I would only need the driveshaft shortened, everything else is already there, so it would be very cost affective.
I would not use the GearVendors unit behind a stock maincase Muncie. I have seen the front countershaft hole stretch the 319 alloy Muncie case when guys repeatedly upshift and downshift the GV unit at high RPMs.

What is your differential gearing?
 

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I would not use the GearVendors unit behind a stock maincase Muncie. I have seen the front countershaft hole stretch the 319 alloy Muncie case when guys repeatedly upshift and downshift the GV unit at high RPMs.

What is your differential gearing?
I'm running 373.

I've seen plenty of M20 and M21's stretch case, I have a couple myself, but the M22 with the straighter cut gears, have less of a tendency to do this.
 

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I'm running 373.

I've seen plenty of M20 and M21's stretch case, I have a couple myself, but the M22 with the straighter cut gears, have less of a tendency to do this.
You got it, the M20s and M21s will see axial case stretch more than the M22 cases. But, I have quite a few M22 cases that have lateral stretch where the countershaft front bore is egg shaped.

Guys, I will do a driveline makeup for Taz's Nova. When engineering a driveline on paper, it is nothing more than math, multiplying and division. The better you figure and plan, the happier you will be on the first ride out with your driveline changes.

Taz, you are a great candidate to install the M22Z 2.98:1 gearset inside your existing M22 or any another 1" cased Muncie. The M22Z recipe would be about a 50% cost savings over a new GV unit at $2895.00 for a Muncie kit.

Your Nova driveline baseline and 1st gear torque multiplication with the 3.73:1 and M22 is: 3.73 x 2.20 = 8.206

Using the M22Z 2.98:1 would allow you to install a 2.73:1 diff gear and have about the same 1st gear takeoff feel as your baseline 3.73:1 and M22.
3.73 x 2.20 / 2.98 = 2.75:1 This is provided that you like your present 1st gear takeoff feel of your baseline.

My easy RPM formula for a differential gear chageout is:
Any RPM x New Diff Gear / Existing Diff Gear = Actual New RPM

I'll use 3000 RPM as that would be a practical and realistic RPM at 60 MPH with your baseline combination. I'll compare the 3.73:1 to 2.73:1
3000 x 2.73 / 3.73 = 2196 RPM

The Gear Vendors unit has a .78:1 OD, so your 3.73 x .78 = 2.91:1 final drive.
3000 x .78 = 2340 RPM

On paper, $2895.00 is a lot of coin to save 660 RPM at 60 MPH.
 

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I have a TKO 600 and really don't like it. Its a miserable thing to shift, heavy effort and can't be hurried (in any gear) and grinds reverse if you don't go from first directly to reverse quickly (again it doesn't like to be hurried). Not nearly as quick as the 4 speed it replaced.

Overdrive is nice to have though. If I were to do it again I would go 6 speed with .8/.63 5th & 6th
 
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