I've been noticing a clunk in the right rear for a little while now when I go over some bumps or under hard acceleration. This started the last time I had it on a jack and was working on the brakes. Took the wheel off and found this. Any Ideas?? Also note that the shock has rubbed the P-Brake cable some. (this may be unrelated)
Jim-- That's a good idea!. Thanks for the helpful diagram. I was actually thinking of something like that but wondering what would cause this to happen in the first place. It's never happened before.. These shocks have been on at least 2 years. It's an open rear and this is the drive wheel... It seems to take more of a beating than the driver's side...
Jim-- The width of the cross piece at the top of the shock is at least 3/8". Any thoughts on how to get a bushing with washers on there? I guess if the hole in the bushing and washers is 3/8" it might work because it wouldn't be able to go anywhere because it would hit the shock mount extension??
Jim--That sounds like a great idea... It's about 1/2" between shock and shock extension and the shock mounting bracket (cross piece) is about 1/2" wide. Rubber is flexoble and can fill irregular spaces. Would the end link bushings you mention stretch over the shock mounting bracket and fill a 1/2" space? What I came up with may work but a thick rubber bushing might be better.
I was thinking about your issue and this is only happening on the passenger side that you show in your pictures ?
If so the passenger side has the lower shock bracket in front of the rear axle and when accelerating the axle would twist on the leaf springs and I would think the top shock bushing eye would move rearward if there is a bind and/or alignment issue. With yours being forced forward when you would brake hard the axle and leaf spring would twist the other way and then if there is a bind and/or alignment you would get the shock eye getting slide forward.
Out of curiosity on your leaf springs do you have the spring pack clamps on them ?
If the springs are weak and there are no wrap around clamps on the front half of the springs, when braking there may be excessive axle rotation.
I just worry about what we have talked about with a filler to keep the shock eye positioned on the middle of the cross shaft if there is an alignment or binding issue, now with limiting the movement of the shock eye on the shaft could the shock eye be broke off of the shock body itself ?
Jim-- No spring pack wrap around clamps on mine. Just rivets. The springs were new when I put them on in 2012. They were listed for 69 Camaro. They worked fine but arch was slightly different and shock travel stopped before spring travel.That's why shock extensions. Unfortunately I painted springs before I thought to record the numbers on them.
ALSO this shock issue only started a few months ago after I finished brake hardware refresh on passenger rear wheel. After completing, I rolled backwards pretty fast and jammed the brakes hard several times to get final brake adjustment in rear equal via self-adjusters.
ALSO, looking a couple pictures above, it looks like shock eye may be slightly bent.
Below are some pictures I recently took (first one before repair and other two today).
Just so you know, there are no rivets holding the leafs together that I have seen in over 50 years on the Nova's or the Camaro's.
The second and third picture of yours shows a hole in the spring with a plastic isolator filling the hole and then on top spreads out flat to keep the springs away from each other in those spots stopping metal to metal contact and slowing any wear. There is though a center through bolt in the leaf pack that locates the rear axle to the leaf pack and holds the leafs together for ease of assembly. I just really wonder how much effect the spring clamps affect things. The ones you bought for replacement do not have them while the originals did have them.
I wonder, on the lower shock mounting ears of they might be slightly bent and with a little tweaking get things aligned better ?.
I did a google search for pictures of the lower leaf spring shock mounting bracket and some show just the one bent arm with a stud off of it while on others like on my 68, 73, and 74 Nova's show a double arm support for the lower shock mount with a through bolt. If there is an alignment issue then I would think the single arm bracket would be the easiest to bend and correct things while the double arm would be a little more difficult to tweak.
Didn't know those were plastic! I wonder if spring clamps could be added and if that would be a good idea?
My lower shock mounts have the double arm support with a bolt.. I have better picture of drivers side and not as good if passenger side from when I pit in new pads and some aluminum spacers (see below). Also, when I did this I also replaced the center bolt which was a little crooked with a new #8.
To tweak those arms I wonder if I would need to heat them or just bend?
You mentioned that your car has 3.73 gears... but I do not see any "add-on" traction devises installed.
Do you ever experience wheel hop during aggressive accelerations from a stop? If so, the loading and unloading of the leaf springs could also be contributing to your shock issues.
It is also possible that the central pins (for positioning the rear axle) on the 69 Camaro leaf springs may not be in the same place as the leaf springs that are specified for your vehicle... but if the rear axle sat too far forward on the leaf springs, I would have thought it would have been difficult to install your driveshaft.
Mike--Thanks for your thoughts. I haven't had any wheel hop problems because I haven't really accelerated hard from a standing start--always rolling. I haven't done anything too aggressive leading up to this problem. So I don't think that has caused this. Even my backwards hard stops to adjust rear brakes shouldn't have caused this. The springs have been in there for 7 years and new center bolts for 2 or 3 years. There has never been a problem. I'm thinking Jim (above) might be on to something with the possibility the lower shock mount got slightly bent somehow putting the shock at a wrong angle. Wednesday I should be able to check that carefully.
Mike--have been thinking about what you said...3.73's were added about 8 mo ago... Makes sense that that would put more stress on rear springs. If hard acceleration forward would rotate rear down and forward due to spring wrap maybe that would account for the top of the shock moving forward and pulling out of the bushing as it had. Passenger rear is the drive wheel--open rear. Any idea if these are any good?
How much travel do you have in the rear suspension and how much extension and compression do your shocks have.. If you’re bottoming out the shocks internally or over extending the shocks the bushings will be the first things to go.. You need to measure the shocks at full extension and full compression.. Then measure the distance from the bumpstops to the contact point at ride height and fully extended.. Then compare your findings.. I suspect your shock is too short for the amount of suspension travel you have.. This comes up with lifted trucks when you want the suspension to articulate as much as possible..
Hi. I think what may be your problem is that you have a single leaf lower mounting plate with multileaf springs. The correct lower plate changes the angle of the lower mount and the hardware. Not 100% cause I don't know what year car you have. See attached photos. The correct plates are available at the usual suspects. Nnote the two holes in the plate you have are for the sway bar mount, which isn't used with multi leaf.
Hope this helps. Also if you have any rear steer, check to ensure the pin is n the leaf spring holes correctly.