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Have a year and date correct intake for a 70 350/300 that has been sitting for some time with water in it. What can I soak it in that would remover the rust from the inside of the intake?? Any help please. Thanks Ron
 

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Give apple vinegar a try. :yes: Let it soak for a couple days and wash the rust off every day. You will wonder how good it works.
 

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Beat to the Punch!

Bouncer beat me to it! Vineger is an excellent, cheap, safe and EFFECTIVE rust and paint remover. I have used it extensively on hardware and hard parts. Check out post #81 on my build thread for a little detail.

http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=186532&page=6

I use a 3 or 4 day soak in vinegar. Followed by a blasting be the garden hose. Then a rinse and scrub in a baking soda/water solution to nuetralize the vinegar acid. Finally dry the parts ASAP to minimize rusting. If the parts are to sit for a long time hit them with some WD-40 to protect against rust. That is my process anyway.

FYI, I tested phosphoric acid stripping as well and was not satisfied with the results. The Phos stripped REALLY fast. Like less then a day. But my main complaints are:

A) It stinks!
B) Is much more expensive, $13/gal vs $2/gal for vinegar.
C) Requires an intensive post soak washing.
D) After rinsing the parts would flash rust in a matter of minutes! So I had to coat the parts in WD-40 to preserve them and then re-clean when it was time to paint! Huge Pain In The ***!
E) While not toxic it is not biodegradable like vinegar.

For either vinegar or Phos I found out the hard way that you must soak in plastic or glass containers. After 5 days both acids ate through those disposable tin "meatloaf pans" I was soaking the boats in. Made a huge mess, stained my workbench and generally pissed me off!...

Good luck!
 

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Ill second the inexpensive vinegar. I have used phosphoric acid and like it a lot but for a large amount of it to fill a decent size bucket it can get expensive.

I have used electrolysis but it seems to work better where all the rust is exposed (line of site) to the anode. Hidden blind spots dont get enough action.

And I have tried other products like evapo-rust and some other "bio safe" store bought products. They are expensive and slower than plain jane white vinegar. But they are also kinder to sheetmetal and other thin pieces of steel.

My overall fav for rust removal is the electrolysis. But just as like all the other products its NOT perfect for all situations.

White vinegar is inexpensive and pretty safe. NOW!! If you want to activate vinegar a lil, give it a lil boost, you can warm it up some. Doesnt take much. Even at 100 degrees it becomes very active.

I visited a shop where they refinished and fixed wheels. To fix a clear coated aluminum wheel they needed to strip the clear coating off first. They had a couple of 100 gallon stainless steel pots (old steam pots for cooking in large institutions) filled with vinegar and it was heated to below boiling. They were stripping clear coat off in a matter of minutes.

Works the same for steel. Warm the acid up a lil and it really gets to eating the rust. And thats the nice thing about vinegar is even when warmed up a lil its very active but not nearly as active as some of the nasty acids. You wont need more protection than just common sense. Dont hover over the pot, dont stick yer hand in (cause its hot, not cause it will eat yer bones like some acid) and dont let the toddlers ride their trikes around the pot.

It has the potential to be a very active acid with a lil heat or be a nice slow working acid at room temp.

One of the main reasons I dont use it is because the rust removal I deal with can be dealt with the electrolysis and unlike acid it does not remove good iron or steel, acid will dig into good metal. But on a heavy casting thats not even an issue unless you go on vacation and forget yer soak :devil: JR
 

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prep & etch works miracles literally it turns rust into clean raw metal! i have used it and it works great you can get it at home depot:D
 

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I have used electrolysis but it seems to work better where all the rust is exposed (line of site) to the anode. Hidden blind spots dont get enough action.
Hidden blind spots not getting enough action, a problem for all men :devil:

White vinegar is inexpensive and pretty safe. NOW!! If you want to activate vinegar a lil, give it a lil boost, you can warm it up some. Doesnt take much. Even at 100 degrees it becomes very active.
Nice idea. I'll have to try it out, thanks!

prep & etch works miracles literally it turns rust into clean raw metal! i have used it and it works great you can get it at home depot:D
Prep&Etch is the phosphoric base I used. Not to bad, $13/gal around WI.
 
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