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Discussion Starter #1
How should I treat areas such as the inside of the cowl and the inner roof structure? There's some surface rust that I can see, especially around the rear window channel. I poked and scraped on it with a screw driver and it seems pretty solid. Some areas I could scrape the rust off and see shiny metal. I want to stop it before it eats thru and I have to replace it.
Any suggestions?
 

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Properly you need to strip the car to bare metal, but baring that try a dental mirror with a flash light in the cowl area. The rear windshield area needs to be inspected from inside the trunk. As far as the roof goes, removing the headliner is about the only way I know.......
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The headliner is out of the car. The surface rust that I'm referring to is behind the roof bracing, where sandblasting can not reach. I guess my only other option would be to have it acid dipped, and I'm not sure I want to go that route?
I thought of trying to spray some sort of rust converter in there and then covering that with anti-rust, or rust encapsulater from Eastwood. I know it's not a permanent solution, but it would, or hopefully stop it from possibly spreading.
 

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i'm not knowledgable on this, so i'm asking...

once a car has been dipped... it's bare, unprotected metal, right ??? so if the area is unaccessable... sure the acid will take away the rust... but how do ya protect the body from rusting again if ya can't get to it ta protect it ???



just asking ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'd like to know as well?
That's kind of what I am afraid of, those areas that you can't get to once it has been dipped.
So what do you do?
 

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I am in a similar situation with my 65.I read on here somewhere that the braces for the roof are easily removed .I checked this and they are only spot welded in.Should be easy enough to remove.The tread was about removing and replacing the insulation behind the roof liner.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If you find a link to the thread please post it.
I thought about this as well, but I don't know how to weld. So when it came time to put them back?
I recently had a friend that claimed to know how to weld.:eek: Oh my God, it was bad! I didn't want to say anything because he was doing me a favor, but man where he welded on the firewall is just horrible. I could tell he realized it when he started saying he wasn't use to welding thin sheet metal. Blew holes everywhere. Then started blaming the 110 welder, saying he needed his 220 welded to do it right.
Oh well, guess I'll figure it out?
 

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same story as me... my best friend wants ta help me with the Flyer all the time and i try ta be as nice as i can...

"Naw, i'm gonna do that later"

he's already "helped" me a couple times that were VERY costly... so thanks, but NO THANKS !!!




i bought my welder so I can blow holes... then i can be pissed at me, not my best friend... and i don't plan on welding anything till i'm at least "half-a$$ed"


which'll prolly take forever...
 

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I bought some rust stop in a spray can. On the areas I couldn't get to I used a nozzel off a WD-40 can with the "Straw on it" I sprayed it back into places I could get to any other way. Also from what I have read after they rinse the acid of the cars they use a chemical to neutrilize the the acid. Then the cars are redipped in a rust proofer as the factory does them. It get everywhere; most of the the time better than the factory ever did.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yeah Flyer, I definitely could have done without my buddies help. I ain't mad, and I certainly appreciate the effort. But boy, I would have been better off without it.........I've thought about buying a welder, just don't have the space for it. Maybe I'll buy someone a welder in exchange for some welding? There's an Idea.
 

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I had my old Vette frame acid dipped. When they were done they put a coating on it to keep it from rusting, so that when you were ready all you needed to do was to wash it off. Of course once you washed it off it needed painting right away.
 
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