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What SBC do I need?

3K views 37 replies 13 participants last post by  4116sst 
#1 ·
Looking to buy a new bottom end, and add my heads. NEED HELP!
Here is what I have so far.
1963 Nova
tube chassis
4 link
2600 # w/driver
Powerglide w/ 1.76
33" tall slicks
5300 8" stall
4.88 gears
AFR 220 heads
super victor intake
hp 950 (may need to upgrade)
crosses line @ 7,000
Currently have 355, runs 10.35
1.40 60 ft.

WANT TO RUN MID TO LOW 9'S, BUT REALLY WANT A BETTER 60'
I want to puy my heads,intake and carb. on a better HIGH compression bottom end. Please help.
Thanks,

4116sst
 
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#4 ·
383 or a 400plus ci

budget demands can dictate the result.

in a stock block a 383
very light weight quality Assembly.

Using a 350 block build a 383 6 inch rod combination.

Using 400 block or aftermarket block and build a 400 plus ci engine.


Lot of variables.

In a drag car light weight quality pistons & pins and a strong quality rod is a must.

Quality machine work, the local machine shop pop it out work will not deliver durability or quality results.

AL
 
#5 ·
I took it that you wanted to reuse your block and just buy new crank/rods etc. But if your going to buy a new block aftermarket is awesome if you have the money but a gm block will do. And if your going to buy an aftermarket block, sky is the limit. Even a nice 434 would get you in the low 9's pretty easy.
 
#6 ·
I do want to save a penny where I can, but not waste money either. I have quite a few stock blocks that I can use, but sometime feel that a good rotator in these might be a waste of money. I've looked at Shafiroff for a short block, kinda expensive. I've also viewed some dealers on Racingjunk. Do yall know anything about Dynoflow, or CNC Motorsports? They both offer several combinations.

Gary
 
#10 ·
my buddy used them for a twin turbo motor, & it went 8.60's @ 158. pretty cheap considering it went that fast & we were trying to put more boost in but the track wouldnt hold. he popped it do to some timing box issues & now i have it & rebuilt it. i was gonna used them also.... they built him a Dart 406SBC w/ forged eagle assembly & JE pistons. hope this helps....

JOHN
 
#14 · (Edited)
racing junk

i'd search racingjunk.com. Always a bunch of good deals on rotators and short blocks on there. Late model dirt track stuff even used would prolly last a life time on the drag strip. Those guys pour a small fortune in those motors and sell 'em pretty cheap.

here is an add for a 415 late model engine , aluminum block , doesn't say what heads , for 8900 bux , the block goes for over 4000 i think and unless it splits in half you'll never need another block , dynoed 750 hp

http://www.racingjunk.com/category/...54/SBC-Aluminum-.415-Racing-Motor-730-HP.html

prolly be impossible to duplicate this for the asking price
http://www.racingjunk.com/category/91/Circle_Track/post/1479514/DART-Little-M-SBC.html

i'd say this one is half price what it would cost to build
http://www.racingjunk.com/category/91/Circle_Track/post/1465627/Late-model-motor-4-sale.html

430 cubes for 5000 ??http://www.racingjunk.com/category/...mod-latemodel-alcohol-engine-selling-out.html

447-454 shortblock for 4200.00
http://www.racingjunk.com/category/...7-454-quot-SBC-SHORTBLOCK-assembled-new-.html
 
#17 · (Edited)
I'd go with a 400+ with those 220's. Not to say a 383-388 shortblock won't work IMO I think the 220's would work better on a 400+ set up. You don't necssarily have to zing the engine past 7,000 to make good power.

FYI I don't know about dynoflow. Guys out here in norcal have used them and NOT have had good results. Alot of their parts are blems and have lots of machining issues and not back their stuff. Check out speedo-motive they offer small blocks at affordable prices.

OH and Im about to start a 406 shortblock build if your interested I could make you a screamin deal.

P.S. if it were me I'd zing that little 355 higher thru the lights. With a 400+ combo thru the lights at 7,000 is perfect and should push you in the mid to low 9's with your 220's and the right cam with your SV and a 950 carb.
 
#18 ·
I'm fairly satisfied with running in the 10's, but I really want to lower my 60' time more than lowering my et. So....with that being said, what options would I have, while keeping my 355 in the car. I am running a glide, 4.88 gears, 33" tall tire and crossing the stripe @ 7,000 rpm's.
 
#20 ·
It's cool how many guys on here have so many great ways to answer your question!

Here is my thoughts and it's already been mentioned here by AL and others.... and I couldn't agree more with them.... but I don't know what EXACTLY your rotating assy. is made of ...and here we go again with a word that I hate to use......... "IF"

your Block and Rotating assy. is made of the right stuff.... I would go with a Cheater NOS plate kit it's like 150 to 250 horses in a bottle (still very affordable) it has easy to follow instructions and is very easy to set up and tune...... Then if you still can't get the ET your wanting or the 60' times do a little testing with your Nitrous on a electronic controlled programmable delivery system....and no kidding my 11yr old son can program and get one to work really great.... simply because the instructions are so easy to read and understand... But first and foremost be POSITIVE that your entire rotating assy. and Block for that matter can withstand the pounding it will get....but when you get it right......ain't none better.

And to think all this coming from an "No School like the Old Skool" Charter Member .....:eek:

Randy.
 
#23 ·
Speaking purely from the ones that I have Installed and set up for people and my own limited experience.... there can be some if you (like said just before this) don't keep an eye on your bottle pressure between passes and keep a Bottle Blanket on it and have it all plumbed or piped in the right way ... once you get the feel of just how many runs you can safely make before you experience pressure drop off due to Gas usage is based on how you have it tuned to your particular Motor....I have never been able to find 2 motors that performed 100% the same on the Juice or off...but like I said that all comes with tuning and experience.

If you want....try this, There is always somebody at your local Strip (another Racer not a salesman from your local speed shop) you can find who is or has run this type of set up and will 9 times out of 10 be more than willing to Tell, Show or in a lot of cases actually help you get it set up and show you the correct way to use it.....Look for somebody who you know is on the bottle that does really well with it and runs consistent times, start there and just walk up and ask questions you will find some who act like your asking them for their families 100 yr old protected recipe or their Social Security #.... but if you don't get freaked and keep at it you WILL find some fellow Drag Racer/Gear Head who works on and has built his own that will bend over backward and go out of his way to help you.....because there is no experience like "First Hand Experience".

Randy.
 
#22 ·
but I really want to lower my 60' time more than lowering my et
If you lower your 60 ft. time, your E.T. will go down as well--why would you care what the 60 ft. is if you are happy with your current times? Not making a whole lot of sense there.
Squeeze a 100 shot off the line, then have it shut off after you shift.

Does nitrous affect et consistancy?
There are plenty of consistent cars running nitrous, but bottle temp and pressure will have an effect on your results.
 
#24 ·
more than willing to Tell, Show or in a lot of cases actually help you get it set up and show you the correct way to use it
I used to have people want me to show them how to setup a system after they saw my car run......I tell them I tore the plastic shrink wrap off the cardboard, bolted the parts on the car, stuck in the jets for the H.P. I wanted, and drove the car.....I don't know anything about setting up a system, but I've never had a hiccup or any nitrous related issues since the first day I ran it. (I did nip a plug the first day because of a lean condition related to fuel delivery) I ran 10.25 the first day, and later a 9.87 on a very loose track while running 9" street tires. I never tried to make it consistent, I was trying to go fast on a little tire and it tended to be hard to repeat when you were fighting traction issues. It did 60 ft. in 1.34-1.39 on the little tire.
 
#25 ·
well considering now you want to lower your 60fts you have to look at what the car is doing. Video tape it and study how the car is reacting. You may need to change the angle of the 4 link bars, adjust or change shock rates, springs, move weight around in the car, etc. A tenth off in 60ft is worth almost 3 tenths at the end. Get the car to accelerate foreward instead of upward is the key. So now you want to run low nines requires more power. With more power you now have to set the chassis back up get the best 60ft. That thing should be 60ft'in the 1.20's
 
#26 ·
6nova4,

Do you calculate that I should be 60'ing 1.20? If so what could be wrong? The converter just came back from PTC, trans was recently built (I know these don't mean too much), but they are fresh. The only thing is the 4 link was not professionally tuned.

Thanks
 
#30 ·
Ok, I've decided to use one of my blocks and build a 6'' rod 383 stroker. Kinda taking the cheap way out. So.... Can anyone tell me whats the highest compression ratio piston to put in (hopefully offered in a forged 4340, h-beam rotating assembly). My heads are the AFR 210, milled to 64 cc, and cam is 640 lift.
 
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