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Discussion Starter #1
Looking to buy a new bottom end, and add my heads. NEED HELP!
Here is what I have so far.
1963 Nova
tube chassis
4 link
2600 # w/driver
Powerglide w/ 1.76
33" tall slicks
5300 8" stall
4.88 gears
AFR 220 heads
super victor intake
hp 950 (may need to upgrade)
crosses line @ 7,000
Currently have 355, runs 10.35
1.40 60 ft.

WANT TO RUN MID TO LOW 9'S, BUT REALLY WANT A BETTER 60'
I want to puy my heads,intake and carb. on a better HIGH compression bottom end. Please help.
Thanks,

4116sst
 

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383 or a 400plus ci

budget demands can dictate the result.

in a stock block a 383
very light weight quality Assembly.

Using a 350 block build a 383 6 inch rod combination.

Using 400 block or aftermarket block and build a 400 plus ci engine.


Lot of variables.

In a drag car light weight quality pistons & pins and a strong quality rod is a must.

Quality machine work, the local machine shop pop it out work will not deliver durability or quality results.

AL
 

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I took it that you wanted to reuse your block and just buy new crank/rods etc. But if your going to buy a new block aftermarket is awesome if you have the money but a gm block will do. And if your going to buy an aftermarket block, sky is the limit. Even a nice 434 would get you in the low 9's pretty easy.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I do want to save a penny where I can, but not waste money either. I have quite a few stock blocks that I can use, but sometime feel that a good rotator in these might be a waste of money. I've looked at Shafiroff for a short block, kinda expensive. I've also viewed some dealers on Racingjunk. Do yall know anything about Dynoflow, or CNC Motorsports? They both offer several combinations.

Gary
 

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my buddy used them for a twin turbo motor, & it went 8.60's @ 158. pretty cheap considering it went that fast & we were trying to put more boost in but the track wouldnt hold. he popped it do to some timing box issues & now i have it & rebuilt it. i was gonna used them also.... they built him a Dart 406SBC w/ forged eagle assembly & JE pistons. hope this helps....

JOHN
 

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i know iknow dont laugh why dont you use what you got and throw a nitrous set up on it its that much cheaper i would say a 200hp shot would do the trick if not more :yes:
 

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racing junk

i'd search racingjunk.com. Always a bunch of good deals on rotators and short blocks on there. Late model dirt track stuff even used would prolly last a life time on the drag strip. Those guys pour a small fortune in those motors and sell 'em pretty cheap.

here is an add for a 415 late model engine , aluminum block , doesn't say what heads , for 8900 bux , the block goes for over 4000 i think and unless it splits in half you'll never need another block , dynoed 750 hp

http://www.racingjunk.com/category/...54/SBC-Aluminum-.415-Racing-Motor-730-HP.html

prolly be impossible to duplicate this for the asking price
http://www.racingjunk.com/category/91/Circle_Track/post/1479514/DART-Little-M-SBC.html

i'd say this one is half price what it would cost to build
http://www.racingjunk.com/category/91/Circle_Track/post/1465627/Late-model-motor-4-sale.html

430 cubes for 5000 ??http://www.racingjunk.com/category/...mod-latemodel-alcohol-engine-selling-out.html

447-454 shortblock for 4200.00
http://www.racingjunk.com/category/...7-454-quot-SBC-SHORTBLOCK-assembled-new-.html
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for all the info.
ChevyIIheavy, I don't know a thing about Nitrous...consistancy, will my motor handle it etc...?

VIN63. I thought about a shorter tire, but I'm already turning 7,000 rpm thru the stripe.

Thanks
 

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I'd go with a 400+ with those 220's. Not to say a 383-388 shortblock won't work IMO I think the 220's would work better on a 400+ set up. You don't necssarily have to zing the engine past 7,000 to make good power.

FYI I don't know about dynoflow. Guys out here in norcal have used them and NOT have had good results. Alot of their parts are blems and have lots of machining issues and not back their stuff. Check out speedo-motive they offer small blocks at affordable prices.

OH and Im about to start a 406 shortblock build if your interested I could make you a screamin deal.

P.S. if it were me I'd zing that little 355 higher thru the lights. With a 400+ combo thru the lights at 7,000 is perfect and should push you in the mid to low 9's with your 220's and the right cam with your SV and a 950 carb.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I'm fairly satisfied with running in the 10's, but I really want to lower my 60' time more than lowering my et. So....with that being said, what options would I have, while keeping my 355 in the car. I am running a glide, 4.88 gears, 33" tall tire and crossing the stripe @ 7,000 rpm's.
 

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I am running a glide, 4.88 gears, 33" tall tire and crossing the stripe @ 7,000 rpm's
Converter must be pretty loose--with no slippage you should be running 140 mph, which would have you in the 9.60's.
 

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It's cool how many guys on here have so many great ways to answer your question!

Here is my thoughts and it's already been mentioned here by AL and others.... and I couldn't agree more with them.... but I don't know what EXACTLY your rotating assy. is made of ...and here we go again with a word that I hate to use......... "IF"

your Block and Rotating assy. is made of the right stuff.... I would go with a Cheater NOS plate kit it's like 150 to 250 horses in a bottle (still very affordable) it has easy to follow instructions and is very easy to set up and tune...... Then if you still can't get the ET your wanting or the 60' times do a little testing with your Nitrous on a electronic controlled programmable delivery system....and no kidding my 11yr old son can program and get one to work really great.... simply because the instructions are so easy to read and understand... But first and foremost be POSITIVE that your entire rotating assy. and Block for that matter can withstand the pounding it will get....but when you get it right......ain't none better.

And to think all this coming from an "No School like the Old Skool" Charter Member .....:eek:

Randy.
 
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