Great idea. I have started doing that although some of them don't mention the tools(or brand) they are using. BTW, that's a great video.your best bet
start watching you tube videos
eastwood has lots, they sell paint, bondo etc and lots of body work tools
learn how to do body work and that will help you decide what tool to use
just one exampleMEDIA=youtube]smudf-wpsoY[/MEDIA]
Do yourself a favor and buy something like this. You do not need to be trying to work any kind of filler with any form of air or electric sander until you have experience. You will need a couple of different grits of paper you can buy by the roll. I keep 80,120,240,320 and 400 grit rolls in my shop. Also a spray on or powder guide coat is important. As already related, start watching youtube videos but stay away from rust repair without welding and such.
Thank you for a lot of really great information. I know everything that was done on my car, including by me. I did make the mistake, however, of trying to repair a couple of areas(small) with bondo after I removed the rust. Now, I realize that all has to come out and metal welded in.If you have areas of rust bleeding through your paint, chances are that it's far worse than you may expect, it's an iceberg sort of effect, where you see a little area somewhere but underneath it's much worse. A dual action (D/A) sander is great for hitting large areas where you do not want to put swirls in...because the D/A rotates on two different orbits. If you're at a place where you've got rust kicking through your finish, I'd recommend starting with a 3" angle grinder with a flap disc on it. You're going to end up cutting through paint and what lies beneath (which could be multiple layers of paint and/or bondo etc.) It's pandoras box though, because if you cut through the paint and hit a "skim coat" of bondo, you'll need to grind down around the area until you've got clean metal. You may find that it's rotted through. Then you're into cutting out the area and welding in new metal. If the metal is mostly fine, you've got two choices: either build the bondo back up to match the area around the repair and then all of the prep etc. to paint it...or you end up discovering there's a lot of bondo and you want to cut it all down.
Truthfully, anytime you're seeing rust it's usually much more involved than what you're actually seeing. I went through this on my last project that I never completed. 1957 Chevy pickup. Looked mostly awesome when I bought it. When I started working on it, I found it was packed full of bondo, when I started stripping it...I realized the entire thing was in really rough shape and it was hidden under layers of polyester and primer.
These are the absolute best that I have found to strip paint. Took my whole 71 down to bare metal. They also make small ones that work on angle die grinders for small areasI've always had great luck with an angle grinder and a quick stripping disc for getting through body filler and old paint, without totally trashing the sheet metal underneath.
Fair warning: If there is significant rust hiding behind it, work slowly. The discs tend to grab sharp edges of metal, and can blow out section your trying to fix or grenade the pad.
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These are the absolute best that I have found to strip paint. Took my whole 71 down to bare metal. They also make small ones that work on angle die grinders for small areas
Okay. Thank you. I may invest in both.3M calls them a paint and rust stripper. I found them very messy/dusty, and still seemed to have to attack the area with a wire wheel to get anything more than surface rust off the metal (it didn't seem to do much when there was pitting or creases in the metal).
