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Discussion Starter #1
I picked up his book from half price books and was reading the chapter on ignition and he mentioned several things that are crucial to power and longevity that I had not heard anything about

what is wrong with you guys? :D

he mentioned referencing and aligning the rotor, by making some sort of hole to be able to do this. he also mentioned putting a hole in the cap to get rid of "ozone" etc, and keeping at least .500" between each wire all the way from the cap to the head etc etc.

so, how does one reference a rotor? do you have to have a spare cap to make a hole or can you use your regular cap? any vids/pics etc? this is serious stuff.


btw, SMOKEY recommended LOCKING the distributor and eliminating BOTH mechanical and vacuum advance, as these are the main causes of timing innacuracies. WOAH. he even recommended this on high compression motors.
so lets say that settles that debate.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Lots of guys lock out their distributors in race applications and some street applications. My 355 is 12:1 and I have my MSD ignition locked out at 37* and setup so I can crank the engine over with the key then flip a switch that powers the ignition and it fires right up. No problems at all
cool. thats exactly how the book described setting it up, with different switches for starter and ignition.

now, I still want to know how to align the rotor.
 

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not to jack this thread but has anyone ever heard of msd distributers retarding themselves at high rpms i have mine set at 40 degrees and a friend of mine is saying at high rpm its like 36 degrees
 

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For a street application I disagree with disconnecting the vacuum advance, It is for fuel economy and by simply keeping everything functioning correctly, it works fine. For all out race, it's not needed.
 

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They are speaking of phasing the rotor. We do it on the race cars. It is done when you use a crank trigger and lock down the timing. I drilled a hole in the distributor cap right behind the #1 terminal. I set the initial timing with the crank trigger & timing light. We pull a lot of timing for the nitrous, so then roll the engine over until the balancer line is pointing at the max amount of timing we pull during a pass. Looking through the hole, I rotate the distributor so the rotor is pointing to #1. Now it's phased. I just leave the hole but some guys change caps, or put a plug in the hole.
 

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There are alot of tricks but not everyone wants to share them, just as Smokey did not share his information back in his day when he was racing, you can't allways expect the guy racing next to you to help you.

Just remember most of what you may hear or read is BS. You have to try it and judge for yourself.
 

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not to jack this thread but has anyone ever heard of msd distributers retarding themselves at high rpms i have mine set at 40 degrees and a friend of mine is saying at high rpm its like 36 degrees
Sure have. My MSD will do it if I set it to. There is also auxilary devices you can add depending on the ignition you have.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
They are speaking of phasing the rotor. We do it on the race cars. It is done when you use a crank trigger and lock down the timing. I drilled a hole in the distributor cap right behind the #1 terminal. I set the initial timing with the crank trigger & timing light. We pull a lot of timing for the nitrous, so then roll the engine over until the balancer line is pointing at the max amount of timing we pull during a pass. Looking through the hole, I rotate the distributor so the rotor is pointing to #1. Now it's phased. I just leave the hole but some guys change caps, or put a plug in the hole.
hi, do you drill the hole on the vertical side, or the horizantal side of the distributor?

so If I have a completely locked out distributor that I want to set at 36 dbtdc, I set it there, then look thru the hole to make sure the rotor is pointing exactly at number 1?

what if it is not, how do you fix this?
 

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Some distributors come with the hole already in them and a removable cap on them. I run my timing locked on my street car and it runs better than without it locked. Some engines just like it that way.
 

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hi, do you drill the hole on the vertical side, or the horizantal side of the distributor?

so If I have a completely locked out distributor that I want to set at 36 dbtdc, I set it there, then look thru the hole to make sure the rotor is pointing exactly at number 1?

what if it is not, how do you fix this?
See enclosed pix...hole goes in the top so you can look down and see where the rotor is pointing. Phasing the rotor is only if you are using a crank trigger. If using a crank trigger, all timing is set by moving the pickup magnet on the crank trigger. We pull a lot of timing by the time all the nitrous stages are activated, so I phase the rotor to 15* which is the total timing we run with 2 of the 3 stages activated. Total timing on just the engine is set at 32*. Make sense?

Don't worry about the firing order you see on this cap...we run a 4-7 swap cam on this engine, so the firing order is different.

If you aren't running a crank trigger, you set timing like you normally do with a distributor setup by rotating the distributor.

 
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