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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I am going to switch cams in my engine and I already have this exact cam and lifter set in my garage.
My current camshaft is a Howards Cams 310/310 Duration .524/.524 Lift on a 112LSA. Its RPM range is 1800 to 5800

The cam I have in the garage is a Elgin Industries 304/316 Duration with a .540/.540 lift. But I dont understand what the LSA is because there are two different numbers there, one for intake and one for exhaust. Here's a link to one on ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BIG-...emQQimsxZ20090502?IMSfp=TL0905021110007r25259

My engine specs are:
454 BBC bored .030
SpeedPro Forged Dome Pistons .250 dome 11:1 Compression
1971 LS5 Large oval port heads, stock size valves
Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake with 1" Spacer
Holley 850CFM Race Carb with Annular Boosters
8" ATI TreeMaster convertor
4.56 Gears
TH350 Trans


Would this Elgin Cam be better for my engine?
 

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With the converter, gears, and compression you are running, I would go with something much bigger. That cam will be making torque pretty low in the rpm range which will be a waist since with you combination, you will blow right past that point and not get to use any of it. If you had a converter that stalled around 2500 rpm, 3.73 gears, and 9.5-10 to 1 compression it would be big enough IMO.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=LUN-402A7LUN&autoview=sku
I would go with something like this. Even with this larger cam your still on the edge of being able to run 93 octane on the street.

Hopefully some big block guys will chime in.

-Dan
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm not sure on how much lift I can run, the blocks been decked .020" , the heads are 112cc chambers
 

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You can run alot of lift with the right springs in a big block. When I was going to run a solid roller, I had a 249/[email protected] .050 cam in there witha 110lsa and had all kinds of room. As for the lift, It ad .680 lift and had plenty of room in the heads as well. This was with stock length valves. I agree, you need a cam more like dan listed.
 

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the elgin cam has a 110 lobe separation with a 109 intake center line
Wouldn't that be a 114 lsa with a 109 icl? I may have read it wrong.

I agree with Dan also, the cam he linked to would be a much better choice for your combo, depending on what your goals are. I definately wouldn't be looking at hydraulic cams with an 8" converter and 4.56 gears. I hope you have your suspension working good.

Is this a street/strip car or strip or what? Just asking because I'm not familiar with what you're trying to do. Even that lunati is going to be done by 6500 or less in a 454.

Whatever cam you get, you need to check piston to valve clearance and be sure and set up correctly with the right valve springs.

I'd like to know more about your car and goals.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Its a Street/Strip car. Im not going to race it a lot, but I want a good sounding and Fast car. I have been driving it on the street and can feel the current cam fall over and the car stops pulling right at 5800 rpm

I got it to hook good at the track last time with a 1.6 60ft on M/T drag radials with stock leaf springs (even stock bushings) and a pair of Lakewood Traction bars. My fuel system was not up to par and the car ran outta fuel before the 1/8, but I managed a [email protected] 91mph

P.S. I would really like to keep a Hydraulic camshaft.
 

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Its a Street/Strip car. Im not going to race it a lot, but I want a good sounding and Fast car. I have been driving it on the street and can feel the current cam fall over and the car stops pulling right at 5800 rpm

I got it to hook good at the track last time with a 1.6 60ft on M/T drag radials with stock leaf springs (even stock bushings) and a pair of Lakewood Traction bars. My fuel system was not up to par and the car ran outta fuel before the 1/8, but I managed a [email protected] 91mph

P.S. I would really like to keep a Hydraulic camshaft.
Why?
Are you afraid of making periodic adjustments?:rolleyes: If set properly in the first place, they shouldn't move. Maybe a LITTLE clearance change every once in a while due to normalization, wear, etc. but not much.
For example, all of the Honda V-Tec's use solid cams.:yes: You don't hear about them needing adjustments all the time.:no:

The cost is pretty much the same so why not get the added performance?
 

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With stock valve oval ports and a hydraulic cam you're going to have your work cut out fo ryou trying to get it to pull past 6000rpm. The heads are pretty decent at low to mid rpm, but run out of breath up high. They need the large valves and a bowl port/gasket match to really be able to pull to 6500rpm. Also, with the heavy valvetrain of a BBC, the hydraulic cams valve spring have a hard time controlling the valves above where you're at now. To stay with a hdraulic cam and get it to rev, you're going to need good spring pressure, GOOD lifters, adn probably titanium retainers to lighten the load. I'd look into a set of beehive springs and titanium retainers if you're going to stick with a hydraulic cam. You're running alot of gear for a street car, and alot of converter too. If you must run a hydraulic cam, I'd run something like this:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=LUN-60205&autoview=sku
You'll still be very limited by your heads and still be under cammed for the rest of your combo though. I'd sugest running this cam and maybe pulling some gear out of the car.I'd go to more like a 4.10 gear so you don't nose over during a run.

If you have the money, a new set of heads would really help. You don't need anything really expensive, and you can get a set of decent cast iron heads that'll really wake the engine up.
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...866476+4294784486+4294792917+115&autoview=sku
These would work great, but you'd need a different intake. And with an 8" converter and 4.56 gears, a Victor Jr. would do you better anyhow. You're not going to lose any drivability with those steep gears.

Like they say, how fast do you want to go...how much do you want to spend.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Im starting to like this Comp Cam Xtreme Energy camshaft.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CCA-CL11-250-3

I will be switching to a 4.10 gear and I drive the car on the street more than racing. I hope to race the car once a month in a 7.5 Heads Up class at a local 1/8 mile track. I also dont want to go over .575 lift, I would have to have my guides machined down.

BTW, I got my engine torn apart and I am ready to buy a cam ASAP.
 

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the last cam I posted has 27 degrees of major intensity and is a tight lash solid ta boot....

the one you listed is only 49 degrees of major intensity....very lazy..........

that meas between the ..050 duration and the advertised duration there is only 27 degrees of difference.. which means the valve is opening extremely fast...
 

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isky cams

i'd look at the isky 292 , 304 or the comp cam 305 ,,, it takes a healthy stick to get a 454 to pull past 6000 IMO. I'd get an isky since its on a 108 myself , they've never disapointed me when they're that tight. They just seem to do what you want. Sure the idle isn't as smooth, myself i'll take the trade off.

Valve train weight might be an issue , but the factory big blocks would wind past 7000 with stock stuff. I'd get the springs to match the cam and i bet it would work.

http://iskycams.com/onlinecatalog.html
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Im gonna buy the Doug Herbert cam, I just cant pass up the price, and its everything I want.
 
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