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Discussion Starter #1
I had to pull my distributer cap off to get my oil pressure sender in, and I noticed that the whole assembly was oily. The metal parts of the rotor were burned looking as well as the terminals on the cap. Also, the points/etc... were oily and burned.

What causes this?
 

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Sound like the bushings and seals in the distributor are shot. The oil pressure from the motor is blasting right up into the electronics area. I suppose it could be rebuilt, by unless you're worried about date coding, just go pick one up from a yard.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Sound like the bushings and seals in the distributor are shot. The oil pressure from the motor is blasting right up into the electronics area. I suppose it could be rebuilt, by unless you're worried about date coding, just go pick one up from a yard.
ok... well this dist. was replaced with a new unit when I had my crate motor installed. It has less than 80k on it. Maybe it is time to buy an HEI distributor? Is that what is causing the burning?
 

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Oil in the cap area? I'm sure it's burning. I wonder if the oil pressure is so high that it has no where to go but up! Never had that problem before, but I guess it's possible. The oil cannot be coming from anywhere else. Do you overfill the pan?
 

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A poor PCV system can cause similar issues. When you have excess crankcase pressure it will escape wherever possible carrying the oil mist with it:yes: just like it typically does out valve cover breathers. In a stock distributor there's only a couple smooth bushings to get past.:yes:
 

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A poor PCV system can cause similar issues. When you have excess crankcase pressure it will escape wherever possible carrying the oil mist with it:yes: just like it typically does out valve cover breathers. In a stock distributor there's only a couple smooth bushings to get past.:yes:
You know D-man, you just hit on a point. He could be sucking oil and pulling through the vacuum can, if the can is defective. I'd think the pipes would be smoking blue at that point.
 

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You know D-man, you just hit on a point. He could be sucking oil and pulling through the vacuum can, if the can is defective. I'd think the pipes would be smoking blue at that point.
I don't know if he'd be pulling oil in through a ruptured vacuum can but too much uncontrolled crankcase pressure will push oil into the damdest places and getting it past the two wore out bushing in an old distributor would be easier than past the intake bolt threads and we see that all the time.:yes:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I don't know if he'd be pulling oil in through a ruptured vacuum can but too much uncontrolled crankcase pressure will push oil into the damdest places and getting it past the two wore out bushing in an old distributor would be easier than past the intake bolt threads and we see that all the time.:yes:
Hmmmm... how about through valve cover gaskets, intake bolts, and maybe the dist. too?:D I need to check some stuff out then. A pcv valve is a lot cheaper than another 5 quarts of oil, so I will look into that. What are my options if a pcv/breather system still don't work well enough? BTW the distributor isn't 40 years old:no: It is only 2.
 

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Hmmmm... how about through valve cover gaskets, intake bolts, and maybe the dist. too?:D I need to check some stuff out then. A pcv valve is a lot cheaper than another 5 quarts of oil, so I will look into that. What are my options if a pcv/breather system still don't work well enough? BTW the distributor isn't 40 years old:no: It is only 2.
Normally (90% of the time) if the intake or valve covers are leaking you'll have to replace the gaskets to get them to seal.:yes: When the intake goes back on make sure to use a little silicone on the bolt threads as well.:yes: RightStuff, UltraBlack, etc.. Take your pick.

A properly functioning PCV system is important for a LOT of reasons.
Typically a PCV valve in one valve cover (connected to manifold vacuum **with nothing restricting is flow besides it's own check valve**) with a breather in the other valve cover is sufficient. :yes: If not, then you need to fine out why your engine has so much blow-by!!:eek:

**I say that because I have seen people use those grommets in the valve covers that need to have the bottoms cut out but......they WEREN'T....so the PCV system was effectively blocked off...:rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Normally (90% of the time) if the intake or valve covers are leaking you'll have to replace the gaskets to get them to seal.:yes: When the intake goes back on make sure to use a little silicone on the bolt threads as well.:yes: RightStuff, UltraBlack, etc.. Take your pick.
A quick look reveals that the shop that installed my motor used intake gaskets?:confused: beats me why they would do such a thing! Who knows what else is wrong. My timing was at somewhere like 25* when I got it home a couple years ago...


Looks like I have some work, and I will never trust a shop again.:no:
 

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A quick look reveals that the shop that installed my motor used intake gaskets?:confused: beats me why they would do such a thing! Who knows what else is wrong. My timing was at somewhere like 25* when I got it home a couple years ago...


Looks like I have some work, and I will never trust a shop again.:no:
Believe it or not I've seen more idiots in shops wearing uniforms than in driveways!! It's pitiful!! I have made plenty money over the years fixing what they half-assed or totally screwed up.:D
 

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In addtion to the PCV valve, make sure your breather system is working so fresh air and get or in or vent if needed.

The burning you are seeing on the rotor and cap terminals may be normal. A pic would help. 35K - 45K volts will leave a mark on the cap and rotor.
 

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I was always told that resistance in plug wires, a poor engine ground and bad plugs cause the plug firing voltage to drop and current to increase. The increased current causes the arcing and burning of the distributer contacts.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I was always told that resistance in plug wires, a poor engine ground and bad plugs cause the plug firing voltage to drop and current to increase. The increased current causes the arcing and burning of the distributer contacts.
There is something else to check... I think I am going to ditch the car for the summer and walk to work, that way I can sort everything out, save some money up, and replace what needs to be replaced.:yes:
 
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