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I have scuffed my oil pan on a dip in the road. Oil weeps out of the driver side rear corner where it came in contact with the road. It is a new 180.00 Moroso 7qt kick out pan, and am not wanting to buy a whole new pan if I have too.

Anyone have expereince with welding an oil pan? I have a neighbor who is a millwright & machinist. He has a TIG, MIG and standard oxy/acetylene tank set up in his shop. Wondering if there are any tips.

Thanks
 

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I have scuffed my oil pan on a dip in the road. Oil weeps out of the driver side rear corner where it came in contact with the road. It is a new 180.00 Moroso 7qt kick out pan, and am not wanting to buy a whole new pan if I have too.

Anyone have expereince with welding an oil pan? I have a neighbor who is a millwright & machinist. He has a TIG, MIG and standard oxy/acetylene tank set up in his shop. Wondering if there are any tips.

Thanks
yeah. Put some copper behind the hole and then weld it. (weld doesnt stick to copper)

OR put a solid piece of metal behind/on it and weld it to the pan.
 

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Anybody worth his TIG can fix that...... but you will have to pull the pan and have it cleaned... there is no way to tig or gas weld it with out a clean surface... inside and out...

Should not be a problem...

If you do not want to pull the pan.. drain it, clean and whire wheel the out side.... spray it down with Brake clean.. let it sit over night.. to make sure on oil seeps back.. if still dry in the morning......
JB WELD:D
 

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Yeah, oil contaminated metal is a bear to TIG. Buy lot's of non residue Brake Cleaner and clean it spotless. Grind off paint and any cad plating.
Clamp it to the table or bolt it to an old block so it doesn't warp. Weld and grind. If there's a big hole the copper backing or better yet and over lapping patch plate will seal it and reinforce it.
 

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As previously stated, you'll have to pull the pan to weld it.

Personally, I'd grab the acetylene torch and a coat hanger for fill rod, have it done before you could set up your TIG.
 

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I would have to agree that tig welding and oil dont really work.

I know it sounds crude but if it were me and the pan was damaged the way I am imagining, I would braze it with the o/a torch and brazing rod with flux.

I have had great success patching damaged pans this way.


If you are wottied about bottoming the pan again I might consider adding a thicker "skid" plate that would possibly cover the bottom and lower sides of the pan? Might add some durability.

Good luck

Jeff
 

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Anybody worth his TIG can fix that...... but you will have to pull the pan and have it cleaned... there is no way to tig or gas weld it with out a clean surface... inside and out...

Should not be a problem...

If you do not want to pull the pan.. drain it, clean and whire wheel the out side.... spray it down with Brake clean.. let it sit over night.. to make sure on oil seeps back.. if still dry in the morning......
JB WELD:D
JB weld it like veno said just make sure you use the original formula the quick formula will fail after a while, jack the car up so the oil doesnt seep near the damaged area after cleaning, try to get it to bare metal and goop it on good and wait over night. I fixed a totally rusted out pan on a v6 and it was like new when i was done, so it will work.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Thanks for all the feedback guys.
I got the car jacked up and cleaned the pan and had a better look, damage not as bad as I thought, but a few other areas may need attention, although no sign of oil weeping.

shaved the bolt flange down pretty good, no leak though


slight weep from this area at corner


slight weep from this area at corner


I am going to try the JB weld route first. As pulling my pan has the joyous task of removing the motor mount bolts, and any other associated hindernances and lifting the motor up 2 - 3 inches to get the pan out past the cross member. :(

I will drain the oil as it needs a change, clean the damaged pan area up with brake clean, wire wheel it clean and apply the JB weld to all suspect areas



Thanks
 

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ive seen ******** use fiberous bondo before :devil:
 
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