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Discussion Starter #1
I purchase a set of reproduction rallye Wheels a few years back from a well known vendor. Within two years the powder coat started lifting and rust soon followed. (No warranty of the finish.) Today I decided it was time to take care of this problem. A couple of local bodyshops were wanting $150.00 each to strip and repaint these. (That's twice what I paid for the wheels.) It is also a little out of my budget right now so I opted for plan B.

The car was put on stands and the tires were taken off the wheels. Now comes the weird parts. We stacked the wheels in a large plastic container and chained them together. Next scrap metal was suspended from the inner walls. Then we added 310 gallons of water and 31 cups of Arm & Hammer Laundry Detergent. As I am typing this, a battery charger is wired to this tank. In twenty-four hours, the wheels will be bare metal with no rust.

Here is how it works...
http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp

I used this method a lot during the restoration and saved a lot of parts and a lot of labor. It worked great on small parts. This is my first attempt at anything this big. It is also the first time I used it to remove powder coat. Paint usually lifts right off. I see no reason that powder coat should not do the same. (After all, it is electrolysis.)

I have already purchased VHT's Zinc Chromate Primer & GM Rallye Wheel Paint. (I did say I was on tight budget.) Hoping for good results. Wish me luck.
 

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Please keep us updated with new photos. If you are satisfied with the results, I'm sure many of us have parts that we would try this method on. Good luck!
 

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Use clearcoat designed for wheels or it will flash rust. Water and brake dust eat at the paint if they aren't protected.

Kev (Learned the hard way)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Whew. That powdercoat is tuff stuff. I checked the wheels today. The small amount of rust didn't put up much of a fight. Usually, the paint on parts will start lifting in sheets after 24 hours in one of these tanks. Today, the powdercoat was still holding firm.
A buddy came by and suggested sanding the remaining powder coat and painting over it. (Feathering in any irregularities.) I decided to give it another 24 hours. Not because I am that patient. I just don't want to have to do the job twice. (And I want it to look good.)) I would like to have these finished by the weekend if possible and I really want to give the paint some cure time before re-mounting the tires. Got some tentative plans for the 5th and driving this car would be a must. Wish me luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Managed to remove about 90% of the powdercoat by electrolysis. I had to resort to a heat gun and putty knife for the rest. Large parts in large tanks need more voltage. This method seen to work much better for smaller parts. I did get the paint and tires back on the wheels in time to make one day of Power Tour.
 

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Paint Question

How do you get the paint in between the wheel center and the rim of the rally where it isn't fully welded. I stripped mine by a similar process and that is the first place they started to rust, Im guessing I had some bare metal in the seams from dipping them and stripping the paint off completely.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
WILMASBOYL78 said:
How do you dispose of that brine when the job is done???


wilma
Didn't you notice that your grass was a little greener and a little cleaner?:D
(It's just soapy water. I watered the lawn with it.)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
JOELDARBY said:
How do you get the paint in between the wheel center and the rim of the rally where it isn't fully welded. I stripped mine by a similar process and that is the first place they started to rust, Im guessing I had some bare metal in the seams from dipping them and stripping the paint off completely.
When all was said and done, the tank removed about 90% of the powder coat and rust. This method is fanastic for small parts but I don't think my battery charger had enough amps for the big stuff. I used a heat gun and scraper for the remaining powder coat. From there, the front wheels only needed sanding (you only have to sand where you want the paint to stick;) ) and acid wash. The rear needed a little time with the sandblaster to get them up to a point I was comfortable with. The muratic acid was the real ticket. It made them look like new. I am putting a lot of faith in the zinc chromate primer for protection. We used it on anything that went to bare metal when we were building the car. A buddy raves on it's ability to protect and preserve metal.
 

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yep like said before aircraft stripper works on power coat. just takes longer and you cant water your lawn with it.
 

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wonder if I could use one of those kids plastic swimming pools and a bigger power source for the bigger stuff?
I don't see why not, people have made them to do complete frames.:yes:
 

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Use oven cleaner to remove the powder coating

I understand the spray on overn cleaner will remove the powder coating:)
 
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