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Discussion Starter #1
Hey,

So here we go...

It's warming up here in Illinois so I decided to take the car for a spin yesterday. I finished installing the engine, front end etc. right before winter and only got to drive the car a couple of times (had an overhateing issue and resolved that) before the snow came. So, I de-winterized it, cranked it up and off I went for a short ride. To my suprise when I returned I found what appeared to be a mixture of oil and water on the crossmember and front suspension on the passenger side. My first thought was that it came from the overflow tank from the radiator, but that line is clean. During my ride, I pushed it once and I blew the passenger muffler off (temp muffler because I have not even had exhaust run yet) scared the crap out of me...fortunately it hung by the hanger under the car until I could get pulled over and throw it in the trunk. I immediately turned around (felling extremely dejected) and came home (only a mile or so) when I opened the hood, I found the the oil/water mixture. I was under the car yesterday with a rag and flashlight and can find no place where that would have come from. The breather on the driver's side valve cover is milky on the inside. I originally thought, as well as a lot of you, that this was the ARP head bolt sealer. I cheked the oil this morning, and the oil is milky on the stick as well.

I have not re-torqued the aluminum heads since the initial firing (probably a half dozen heat cycles have passed). So, what do you guys think? Where do I begin looking for this problem?

The engine is a .040 over 406 with AFR 210 heads.

Thanks,
Todd
 

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Doesn't sound good try pulling plugs keep'm in order this will tell you if its between cylinders you can also pressurize the cooling system and listen for air leaking(this is a tool that goes in place of rad cap with a small hand pump) could be intake as well a little detective work to pin point cause then unbolt it.I would guess it's a head gasket,only a guess.Good luck keep us posted.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Taz,

When I pull the plugs, should I be looking for water on the plug or a discoloration?

I was planning on getting the pressure pump today, so we shall see...

Todd
 

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If the leak is bad water will be on plug but your plugs are more likely to be discolored.You maybe OK in cylinders if no smoke was visable from exhaust sorry I over looked that.Coolant will make a real obvious white cloud you can't miss it.So pressure test should help locate problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Taz,

No smoke at all coming out of either side...

Mike,

That bolt you pointed out was the first thing I checked when I saw the mess. I thought it may have vibrated loose or I forgot to tighten it. All good and tight there.

I bought a pressure tester from Sears today, so I am planning on pressurizing the system this week to see what I find. Thanks for the replies and I will update after some investigation.

Todd
 

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Are you running head studs or bolts? My head studs seap a little anti freeze, the engine builder told me to use stop leak on the initial start-up. I have heard it is really common for them to seap water.
 

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On my BBC several of the lower external studsd leaked but none under the valve covers have leaked so far. I used lots of sealer on those and ran them in finger tight the best I remeber. I followed the directions on all of them. Why some leaked I don't know. My heads have never been re-tourqed since I started it.
 

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did you drive the car long enough to "cook" all the moisture, condensation, out of the engine?
if the ride sits in an unheated garage, the sudden change in temps will cause condensation to form in the oil and resualt in the "milky" stuff. perhaps it leaked due to the change in temp and being parked for the season. are you low on coolant? it might be a simple fix of letting engine idle fo about 1/2 hour to burn out condensation.
eliminate the simple stuff first if no tell tale signs are present. then work to the exspensive stuff.
hope this helps,
eric
 

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Discussion Starter #13
OK...

Hooked up the pressure tester and the system holds at 15psi with no leaks.

What gives? Condensation from sitting in an unheated garage for the winter? >>> Good advice hotrodsnova!!

By the way, no where near the problem in the link provided by Nova73.

Todd
 

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I am curious about the overheating problem you had last year.
What did it take to cure that.
Is you system properly burped?
Have you drained the oil yet?
Would hate to think of the worst - cracked block or heads.
Did you have a proper anti-freeze mixture in the system over the winter?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Dan,

The overheating problem was actually not really an overheating problem. The sensor for the gauge was mounted in the head. The temp reading at the gauge was correct at 210. I was really paranoid with the new AFR heads, so I never let the temp get any hotter. The car has the new larger version BeCool radiator, dual 11" fans, and an aluminum high flow pump. I moved the sensor to the intake next to the thermostat for an accurate reading.

I have not drained the oil yet. I was planning on doing that adn changing the filter this week as well so I could post a pic for more information.

50/50 mix of water to antifreeze for the winter. The mixture was tested to protect well below zero (just in case) when I drained the fuel before winter.

Todd
 

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210 is OK for SBC me 89 Iroc runs 200+ watch for the amount of water coming out with oil.Water will be first,also check color if they stay seperate you can tell if it coolant or condensation that way.Some milky oil is possible condensation but usually oil goes milky after a little time of engine not getting to propper operating temp.My wifes vehicle do this because she only drives 2 miles.The boys with stud possibility sound like they are on the right track if the leak test didn't show anthing keep posting.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
An update on the oil and water situation...

I changed the oil today and found what looks to be a little less than a quarter cup of coolant mixed in the oil (7 quarts). Also, I pulled the valve covers and found milky oil about and 1/8" thick stuck the inside of the valve covers. The heads looked fine. I cleaned the valve covers, PCV valve, and breather and put everything back together. The residue on the inside of the valve covers supports the condensation theory, but just in case, I got some Bars stop leak for the radiator. I will drive it and keep an eye on the oil to see what happens.

What do you guys think?

Todd
 

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Has to be studs see if the head maker has info on sealing the studs sorry I can't offer any help new to aluminum heads and studs.Keep us posted I will be installing this set up on my big block,I would like to know what to watch for.Good luck
 
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