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just found my factory 882 heads are shot . not worth spending the money... plan B ? Running .060 over 350 and flat tappet cam. i do not know specs as it came in car , does not seem very big . can i bolt on the chevrolet factory vortec heads that have gm part # 12558060 . these are the ones for 437.00 each every where . OR do i need to change the springs for flat tappet?? the wording in the chevrolet performance says up to .475 lift but no spring presure specs. and can i use my old style rocker arms , or is this differant also. THANK YOU ....
 

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Without knowing what sort of cam... I'd really feel more comfortable swapping that out too, no guess work on the springs that way. I'm running a roller cam with .495/.502 and some 1.5 rockers with my 64cc vortecs.
 

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Before spending roughly 875 for vortec heads I'd look into a set of aftermarket aluminum heads. You would have to come up with a intake. You may still have to change the springs and the aluminum head should offer a HP upgrade.
 

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I wouldn't risk throwing a cam of unknown specs in an engine.

But I also wouldn't waste it. Degree the cam and see what you got. And use a lifter bore gauge or rig up an indicator on a magnetic base and measure the unloaded travel of the lifter.
 

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Before spending roughly 875 for vortec heads I'd look into a set of aftermarket aluminum heads. You would have to come up with a intake. You may still have to change the springs and the aluminum head should offer a HP upgrade.
If your looking for some springs that will handle that cam go herehttps://www.alexsparts.com/valve-spring-kit-sb-chevy-vortec-hi-perf-hyd-roller-130-lbs-seat-pressure-vsk4h53/ I use these springs. Very good and inexpensive
 

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I would buy a used pair out of a junkyard or Craigslist. The stock springs will tolerate a reasonably mild cam, did your car idle at 800 rpm previously? Get the rockers and valve covers with the heads, they are different. And you can buy an intake from the usual sources.
 

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Straight out of the box, vortecs are the best factory bang for the buck.
It has been said, go get some aftermarket alum. Heads.
That in itself presents some problems as well.
You need to take your heads off, and find out what kind of pistons you have.
Are the flat tops with 4 valve reliefs?
Are they dished? How many cc?
How far down in the cylinder are they at the top of the stroke?
Heads come in various chamber shapes and sizes.
What cc are yours now?
Is it a factory piston/chamber relationship?
Does it ping with about 5-6 degrees of static timing with mechanical advance?
Do u get decent gas mileage when vacuum advance is added in at cruise?
Was your engine a smog motor before somebody liberated it? If so, was it set up to run EGR?
Back when the engine was new, what was the octane rating of gas at that time?
Think of all the variables.
So say you pull the heads.
Rotate #1 to top dead center.
How far down from the block surface is the piston?
Are the pistons dished?
You can run alum heads with pistons flush with the block at 64 cc chambers usually.
It will give you about 10:1 compression. With no engine computer, you have to use Premium gas.
With dished, about 9.5:1.
You may still get away with using regular gas, but you will have to alter your timing.
Then there’s the cam issue.
Where does your engine operate? 1500-3000?
You cam may be perfect for that engine operation.
It’s already in the engine!!
Change your heads, get it running.
If you have to be a stoplighter, pick a cam with the highest torque generation. You can leave the line satisfactorily without changing the rear gears and wheel/tire size.
If you just like noise and don’t care about performance, get the biggest loping cam you can stuff in it.
(You will have to take your whole car apart to take advantage of that cam)
Gears, tires, torque converter, distributor, carburetor, fuel pump, cooling, headers, air flow, intake manifold, and the list goes on!
 

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Straight out of the box, vortecs are the best factory bang for the buck.
It has been said, go get some aftermarket alum. Heads.
That in itself presents some problems as well.
You need to take your heads off, and find out what kind of pistons you have.
Are the flat tops with 4 valve reliefs?
Are they dished? How many cc?
How far down in the cylinder are they at the top of the stroke?
Heads come in various chamber shapes and sizes.
What cc are yours now?
Is it a factory piston/chamber relationship?
Does it ping with about 5-6 degrees of static timing with mechanical advance?
Do u get decent gas mileage when vacuum advance is added in at cruise?
Was your engine a smog motor before somebody liberated it? If so, was it set up to run EGR?
Back when the engine was new, what was the octane rating of gas at that time?
Think of all the variables.
So say you pull the heads.
Rotate #1 to top dead center.
How far down from the block surface is the piston?
Are the pistons dished?
You can run alum heads with pistons flush with the block at 64 cc chambers usually.
It will give you about 10:1 compression. With no engine computer, you have to use Premium gas.
With dished, about 9.5:1.
You may still get away with using regular gas, but you will have to alter your timing.
Then there’s the cam issue.
Where does your engine operate? 1500-3000?
You cam may be perfect for that engine operation.
It’s already in the engine!!
Change your heads, get it running.
If you have to be a stoplighter, pick a cam with the highest torque generation. You can leave the line satisfactorily without changing the rear gears and wheel/tire size.
If you just like noise and don’t care about performance, get the biggest loping cam you can stuff in it.
(You will have to take your whole car apart to take advantage of that cam)
Gears, tires, torque converter, distributor, carburetor, fuel pump, cooling, headers, air flow, intake manifold, and the list goes on!
I wish I had seen this post 6 years ago. Mainly the bold text. It's all true!
 
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