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69 Nova, 454 BBC, TKO
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Discussion Starter #21
#3 Data logging setup using some off the shelf components and some diy

So I wanted to play around with some data logging because why not?! It started with me just wanting a wideband AFR sensor in there for street tuning, and down the hole I went, plus some time while being on baby duty.

I am logging data at ~12 Hz through Innovative Motorsport products for:
  • 2 x wideband AFR Sensors
  • MAP (Manifold vacuum)
  • Engine RPM
  • Transmission output RPM
  • Oil Pressure
  • Water Temp
and made my own DIY solution to add in:
  • GPS (latitude, longitude, speed, heading, altitude, time)
  • Forces in longitude, lateral, vertical
  • Moments in Yaw, Roll and Pitch
Then using MegaLogViewerHD for interpretation.


Some photos of getting my DIY stuff ready (gps module to the left with remote antenna)


Sniffing and implementing the Serial communication from the Innovate Motorsports 4 channel SSI-4 Plus
 

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Ha are you implying I should just dump the BBC and go twin turbo LS with a manual 4L80e, and be done with it? Do want to build that setup, but maybe for a different car. :cool: oh and the steering wheel angle? its just the photo?
was just a suggestion...yer not gonna pass a gas station with a BB...a stock LS3 or LS7 if you want more power combined with a 6L80e and custom tranny controller (you can tune the tranny from inside the car for race or street)...will be much faster than the BB on those crap tires and still get 20 mpg
 

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69 Nova, 454 BBC, TKO
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Discussion Starter #23
was just a suggestion...yer not gonna pass a gas station with a BB...a stock LS3 or LS7 if you want more power combined with a 6L80e and custom tranny controller (you can tune the tranny from inside the car for race or street)...will be much faster than the BB on those crap tires and still get 20 mpg
Yeah I would love to build that, it's just that this combo is pretty fresh. I'll have fun with it and then we will see.

And idk I like the old school vibe. For now.
 

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I have a '56 with a BB and a Tremic and a third gen w/ a SB and a Tremic. Both cars have Centerforce clutches and flywheels. In my experience clutch geometry begins w/ the adjustment of the fork ball which has to be perfect north to south or you will never resolve geometry issues.
Beautiful car, BTW.
 

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Yeah I would love to build that, it's just that this combo is pretty fresh. I'll have fun with it and then we will see.

And idk I like the old school vibe. For now.
got a feeling yer not gonna be happy with it for long...been there done that myself many years ago...have a 436 sbc and a 2 speed turbo 400 ...I can see the gas gauge move just warming it up enough to move it...the only good thing about it is it's simple and easy to fix...gonna switch to a bigger tank with an internal pump and a return line...I know that will make it a little better...I could detune it but the cost is ridiculous...rather just go with a LS3 and a 6L80 and drive it once in a while
 

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It is a good looking ride. Personal "Vibe" is what we all run on, not gas mileage. Build it like YOU want it. To each his own.
 

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got a feeling yer not gonna be happy with it for long...been there done that myself many years ago...have a 436 sbc and a 2 speed turbo 400 ...I can see the gas gauge move just warming it up enough to move it...the only good thing about it is it's simple and easy to fix...gonna switch to a bigger tank with an internal pump and a return line...I know that will make it a little better...I could detune it but the cost is ridiculous...rather just go with a LS3 and a 6L80 and drive it once in a while
Damn bro, you got any more hate for the engine in his car you'd like to add to this thread? Not everyone wants to LS swap the world.
 

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69 Nova, 454 BBC, TKO
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Discussion Starter #28
Damn bro, you got any more hate for the engine in his car you'd like to add to this thread? Not everyone wants to LS swap the world.
😂 LS are cool, amazing platform to build excellent power, but yeah I am fixing my clutch geometry, not doing an engine swap. I've had this car with the big block in there since 2007, I know what milage it gets! o_O
 

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Discussion Starter #29
The old starter is on its last leg and doesn't love hot starts, so as I was adding things to my cart, I put a new mini starter in there too. Just a quick re clocking of the starter and slight shim job, and it should be good.

 

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Discussion Starter #30
I have a '56 with a BB and a Tremic and a third gen w/ a SB and a Tremic. Both cars have Centerforce clutches and flywheels. In my experience clutch geometry begins w/ the adjustment of the fork ball which has to be perfect north to south or you will never resolve geometry issues.
Beautiful car, BTW.
Yeah, I got a new adjustable pivot ball, and I agree that is the most important, assuming you have all the right parts.
 

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Couple thoughts on your set up:
Your engine came from a truck, did the Bellhousing come with it? Hopefully it tatches your Tremec and or came with it
A "621" B/H fits both big blocks and 350 SBC. Based on the picture you provide and the machined angled groove , your BH is not a 621. Doesn't mean its from a truck or wrong but........If its from a truck the tranny mount hole may be 5 1/8" dia. ( which is the size for a truck B/H) vice the required 4 7/8" hole for a car( numbers are from my memory... probably not correct). Suggest you measure your tranny lip OD where it goes into the B/H and the ID of the BH where you took your runout. The fact that the Saginaw died MAY indicate this problem exists, as that is exactly what happens as the tranny flexes and gears start to eat themselves/ others.
As you probably figured, if the BH hole is to big you wont notice as the tranny will slide right in, and the truck BH will accommodate the larger nose of the starter, If the car was changed from an automatic to a 4 gear. There is a collar/ bushing that can be added to the tranny lip to fix this.
None of this helps your clutch issue, however having driven with the problem I described it adds to clutch wear and feel, and the tranny wont like to go into R, unless you go 1st, N let clutch out, push clutch in, then go R. that's in a T-10.
I did notice that your clutch pedal is way above the brake. do you have the rubber bumper that the clutch pedal rests against up by the brake switch? I realize that adding the block would decrees your available free play, but I see you have bunch of threads left on the adjustment. IF, IF you do have the issue described It really messes with clutch feel, trying to take off smoothly and shifting into third.
GL hope this helps
 

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Stunning car and write up. Vert methodical and tidy. Well planned. Love the dog dish caps. Bravo bud.
Should shoot a video of it running and some tire wearing videos??? :)
Tom- Halifax :)
 

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what caught my eye on the BH is the small area between your pivot ball mount hole and the tranny insert hole. I went back and looked at my pictures: my truck BH painted black on the left and a new "621" notice the painted BH as very little metal left in that area. I cant tell for sure in the picture you posted, if this is a problem for you. Probably a good idea to research the BH PN in addition to measuring the hole.

I removed the link cause it went to my account.... You all can google it ...lol


Hopefully its not an issue. IDK the dimensions of your tranny face.




408603
 

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Discussion Starter #34
....
Your engine came from a truck, did the Bellhousing come with it? Hopefully it tatches your Tremec and or came with it
A "621" B/H fits both big blocks and 350 SBC. Based on the picture you provide and the machined angled groove , your BH is not a 621. Doesn't mean its from a truck or wrong but........If its from a truck the tranny mount hole may be 5 1/8" dia. ( which is the size for a truck B/H) vice the required 4 7/8" hole for a car( numbers are from my memory... probably not correct). Suggest you measure your tranny lip OD where it goes into the B/H and the ID of the BH where you took your runout. The fact that the Saginaw died MAY indicate this problem exists, as that is exactly what happens as the tranny flexes and gears start to eat themselves/ others.
As you probably figured, if the BH hole is to big you wont notice as the tranny will slide right in, and the truck BH will accommodate the larger nose of the starter, If the car was changed from an automatic to a 4 gear. There is a collar/ bushing that can be added to the tranny lip to fix this.
...
what caught my eye on the BH is the small area between your pivot ball mount hole and the tranny insert hole. I went back and looked at my pictures: my truck BH painted black on the left and a new "621" notice the painted BH as very little metal left in that area. I cant tell for sure in the picture you posted, if this is a problem for you. Probably a good idea to research the BH PN in addition to measuring the hole....
Rupert, thank you for the keen eye and drop of wisdom! 👏

You are right this is totally a truck bell housing, and the car was not swapped by me, so I haven't even thought of this. The casting is 6263756 which is a truck bell housing and it should have the larger 5 1/8" ID where the transmission mates up. I am gonna go measure tonight, but I am pretty positive on that.

You are also right that it could well be why the Saginaw died and why I have had issue with my Tremec similar to what you mention 1st to N to R etc.

So either
I'm torn. Not doing strip duty so I don't really need a scatter shield, and I have tiny tires as insurance for breakage, either just grab a fresh one (have to dial it in) or the adapter and call it done. What would you do Rupert?

And thanks again for noticing this, hopefully I dodged a more expensive bullet.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Stunning car and write up. Vert methodical and tidy. Well planned. Love the dog dish caps. Bravo bud.
Should shoot a video of it running and some tire wearing videos??? :)
Tom- Halifax :)
Will do as soon as it back and running right!
 

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Sounds like you need a flywheel shield to run faster than an 11.50 per NHRA rules. Being that you have small tires and don't plan on drag racing that much if at all staying in the 12's should be pretty easy and still fun.

408629
 

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Well, here's what I did. Here's my T-10 with the $36.00 bushing installed. I would do this first, I think the more expensive options aren't needed, even with your BB. Also I think the scatter shield requirement will not apply to a street class/ 11.50, and I really don't think you will run quicker than 11.50 with your current setup. Im guessing 12.2-11.8 .
The 621 bellhousing can't be used with an automatic transmission starter, but a truck B/H can. If you look at the picture I posted of the two BH notice the truck BH has a much bigger area for the starter nose. Your old starter looks to be from an automatic, as it has the threw bolt and the nose is big. But its a Big Block so IDK .Your new mini starter may solve this issue, if it exists.

My reman 350 came set up for an automatic trans. The PO swapped to a manual and went to the junkyard to get a B/H. He told me there was pile of them and sheer luck he got one from a truck. had he not he would have had to swap starters, as the manual starters are smaller.
He put a Muncie in the car and it lasted maybe 10k miles and exploded. then he swapped to the t-10 and it had issues from day one. I eventually figured all this out. and rebuilt the tranny 2x.

I have not ran mine much and its not in the car now, but, I can tell you it sure made going into R easier, and shifting better as well. The tranny went in nice and tight.
I intend to run it on the track some, maybe this fall, I expect low 13s.
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First off, excellent thread so far. Love your car and choice of engine and trans, regardless of what others may think.

I will say, I applaud you for checking the runout on the bellhousing... 90% of people who have issues with a modern manual trans always whine and complain, but then admit they never do simple setup first.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Sounds like you need a flywheel shield to run faster than an 11.50 per NHRA rules. Being that you have small tires and don't plan on drag racing that much if at all staying in the 12's should be pretty easy and still fun.
Thanks for the NHRA rule book clipping. And yeah I will bring it out to the Wednesday drags up at Sonoma Raceway, but its no 11.50 car :cool:

Well, here's what I did. here's my T-10 with the 36.00 bushing installed. I would do this first, I think the more expensive options aren't needed, even with your BB. Also I think the scattershield requirement will not apply to a street class

I have not ran it much and its apart now, but, I can tell you it sure made going into R easier, and shifting better as well. The tranny went in nice and tight.
I intend to run it on the track, I expect low 13s.
Thanks for the feedback, I ordered the adapter. I think you are right, it will be just fine, and one less step of dialing in a new bell housing for runout.

First off, excellent thread so far. Love your car and choice of engine and trans, regardless of what others may think.

Second of all, I'd have to say that the Z-bar is probably contributing a great deal to why you're fighting this. Look at the angle that the arms hang off, and the overall length will alter your mounting points. See if you can find the right piece and start small, instead of beating yourself up.

I will say, I applaud you for checking the runout on the bellhousing... 90% of people who have issues with a modern manual trans always whine and complain, but then admit they never do simple setup first.
Thank you, and yeah the Z-bar is on its way, thinking this is a compounding issue, starting with the Z-bar (the eengin sat on SBC frame mounts before I did the engine overhaul, so it probably worked fine before) then some worn out components (Pivot ball, Clutch fork, general slop in the linkage) We shall see.

Yeah I did check the run out when I put the Tremec in, but I wanted to double check it as the engine has been out of the car, with the trans and bell housing on and off a couple of times. I used RobbMC offset dowels to correct the bell housing the first time.
 

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Got new brackets from Ground Up. Had to return a set from AMD because they had sent wrong parts (two brackets identical), and Ground Up was cheaper anyways, and slightly better finish.
Before I forget, do you have the part number for the seat conversion brackets that you purchased? I'm in the middle of doing the same thing- bench to bucket seats, and I've heard wayward stories of the AMD pieces...

Thanks!
 
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