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Discussion Starter #1
The previous owner must have lowered my '70 Nova by either cutting the front coil springs or heating them & the car is resting on the front bump stops. It rides like s**t... I considered dropped spindles but don't really want to go to disk brakes. Has anyone used lowering coils? I'd like to keep the ride height at what it is. 11 to 12" from the center of the wheel to the bottom of the fender lip... The ones I posted say they lower it 3"... How's the ride with these? Thank You! Bill
 

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That is certainly a good spring, but I also agree that spindles are best. You do not change the ride feel and still have full suspension travel.
 

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You should get an idea of how much suspension travel you have available in the front. If you lift the front end until the wheels come off of the ground you can take so measurements in various areas to get some reference points. Get the distance between the control arms and bump stops at full droop.. Typically, normal ride height will be pretty near the mid point of the availabile travel.. So say you have 8” at full droop you should expect to have about 4” between the control arm and bump stops at a normal ride height. I’m thinking that a 3” drop spring is pretty aggressive and may not be much different then where you currently are now. Although, the Hotchkis spring may have a higher spring rate.. I’m comfortable with 2” or less of coil spring drop.. Any more then that and you will be pretty close to bottoming out the suspension and that’s not good.. You can go to dropped spindles without converting to disc brakes CPP has 2” dropped spindles that will accept drum brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I've decided to go with disk brakes & the 2" dropped spindles. I called CPP today & the tech guy I talked to said they didn't have dropped spindles that work with drum brakes. But disks are a good upgrade... I'll measure my suspension travel tomorrow when I change the oil & filter. Oh & the tech guy said it'd be ok to also use dropped springs as long as I didn't go more than an inch... Thank you!
 

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Mike - 74 Nova Baltimore, MD
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Did you order the “Drum Width” disc brake hub kit from CPP for your front disc brake conversion. Some front disc brake conversion kits will move the front wheels out towards the fenders by 1/2" ... and may possibly cause tire rubbing issues.

I have posted this article before, but it may be worth reading if you are converting from front drum brakes to discs.
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/brakes/1811-curing-tire-wheel-fitment-problems-narrow-disc-brakes/

P.S. Since you are going to be removing some of the front end components to change the spindles and springs, you may also want to think about using taller drop spindles... or 1/2" longer upper ball joints to introduce a negative camber curve to improve the handling characteristics of your Nova.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I haven't ordered the kit yet, want to make sure I get the right one. And I'm clueless on this stuff. But here's the one that the CPP tech recommended. #CPP6874CBK-D... And in reading the description I see the wheels will be moved out 7/16". That's not a problem now as I have 4 1/2" wide convo pros on there but I want to go to the 6-7" convo's. I'd better make sure they clear... 1/2" longer upper ball joints? I'll go look for those... Thank you! Bill
 

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I used the Hotchkis front springs (2 inch lowering) on one of my 69 Camaros and it rides great. I also used the Edelbrock shocks. I would not do the lowered spindle as those cause a lot of bump steer.

Scott
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You should get an idea of how much suspension travel you have available in the front. If you lift the front end until the wheels come off of the ground you can take so measurements in various areas to get some reference points. Get the distance between the control arms and bump stops at full droop.. Typically, normal ride height will be pretty near the mid point of the availabile travel.. So say you have 8” at full droop you should expect to have about 4” between the control arm and bump stops at a normal ride height. I’m thinking that a 3” drop spring is pretty aggressive and may not be much different then where you currently are now. Although, the Hotchkis spring may have a higher spring rate.. I’m comfortable with 2” or less of coil spring drop.. Any more then that and you will be pretty close to bottoming out the suspension and that’s not good.. You can go to dropped spindles without converting to disc brakes CPP has 2” dropped spindles that will accept drum brakes.
Here's pic's of my front suspension. Looks like my bump stops are bottomed out...
 

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Here's pic's of my front suspension. Looks like my bump stops are bottomed out...
I’d agree.. The pic with the tape measure is with the wheel off of the ground..? I can’t tell.. The measurements you want to get are from the bump stops to the contact point on the chassis.. Do the springs look to be distorted from being heated or do they look to have been cut..? I suspect that when you lift the front end off the ground you can probably move the springs by hand.. They are probably loose at that point.
 

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I would ask CPP about their modular spindles. I know on some applications that they are the factory drum offset. They are a little bit more and require a bracket to use a factory style caliper.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thank you Nova Thug, yes the wheels are off of the ground. Measurement is from top of bump stop (or whats left it) to the bottom of the top A-Arm... 8"... I'll jack it up & see if I can move the springs & look at them... With the wheels on the ground the suspension is bottomed out...
Thank you 63ssIIsfv2dfw, I'll call them again tomorrow & ask about the modular spindles. I said I wanted rotors that were't slotted or drilled. Maybe that's why they didn't mention those. But, I'd rather be slotted & not have an offset..... Bill
 

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Thank you Nova Thug, yes the wheels are off of the ground. Measurement is from top of bump stop (or whats left it) to the bottom of the top A-Arm... 8"... I'll jack it up & see if I can move the springs & look at them... With the wheels on the ground the suspension is bottomed out...
Thank you 63ssIIsfv2dfw, I'll call them again tomorrow & ask about the modular spindles. I said I wanted rotors that were't slotted or drilled. Maybe that's why they didn't mention those. But, I'd rather be slotted & not have an offset..... Bill
You can buy just the spindles from them and then get stock rotors, calipers, etc from Rockauto, summit, etc. I'm basically doing that for my sons build as I didn't want to be stuck with any proprietary parts that might be hard to replace later. It all adds up fast though once you price bearings, seals, disc/drum master cylinder, etc.

How's the rest of the suspension? Now is the time to rebuild it. I can imagine with heated or cut springs it may need some work.
 

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Thank you Nova Thug, yes the wheels are off of the ground. Measurement is from top of bump stop (or whats left it) to the bottom of the top A-Arm... 8"... I'll jack it up & see if I can move the springs & look at them... With the wheels on the ground the suspension is bottomed out...
Thank you 63ssIIsfv2dfw, I'll call them again tomorrow & ask about the modular spindles. I said I wanted rotors that were't slotted or drilled. Maybe that's why they didn't mention those. But, I'd rather be slotted & not have an offset..... Bill
You didn’t measure the correct points to tell you how much suspension travel you have.. Lift the front end enough to get the wheels off the ground. This will put the front suspension in full droop/extension. Then measure from the lower control arm bump stop to the contact point it rests on when fully compressed.. This will tell you how much available travel there is unless the shocks are short and not allowing the front control arms to fully extend.. Doug Nordin from Global West has a lot of technical videos explaining how his suspension products work.. You can use his videos to help you understand some of the technical aspects of suspension mechanics..
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thank You 66SS2 & Nova Thug! I have to put the lowering on the back burner for now. Car quit charging. Just found out it's the alternator. And on the way home from that my throttle linkage fell off on the freeway. And yes it was the 4:45 rush hour Lol... Actually the rest of the front suspension is probably bad to... Looks to me like I have 3" of travel? I watched several of Doug's youtubes the other night. Now I want to do more than just spindles & brakes. I'll be back to post about what upgrades are necessary to make it ride like a new car!

Thanks again! Bill
 

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