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Discussion Starter #1
Have to return Big Al's phone call but been away and leaving again....sorry BA will get back to you soon.....anyways.....

Bottom line I'd like to see 11's on motor. I have a GM virgin 400 block but of course $$$ is a factor right now.

So want idea's for the 350, currently:

ZZ4 Fastburn 385
Lunati Voodoo 60122 cam
Coan 10", 4000 stall
T350
4.10's
MSD ignition, Probillet dizzy, 6AL, etc

To save $ want to keep the GMPP Fastburn Vortec heads. Have both Airgap and Hurricane intakes. Using a Prosystems 780 cfm carb.

Best e/t is 12.32 at 109. Car weighs about 3700 lbs with driver.

Idea's considering $$ to hit the 11's?? Please don't just say nitrous, I do have a Powershot kit but want to do this on motor alone before gong that route.
Oh and it has to be street-able.
 

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nothing at all wrong with those fast burn heads ,, they flow around 280 cfm , they need a good valve job done to them though , the factory springs are very weak,, the valves are high quality

if money was real tight , i'd do a 400 crank 400 rod swap and use your current pistons , hastings has a set of rings for those pistons for around 60 bucks i hear , the factory ones are over 300 , and put a hyd roller around a 236/240 ish 108 hyd roller in it , and get the 1 piece seal adaptor for that block with a 2 piece crank ,,, thats really about all you need

those factory hyper pistons can take a beating, they're made by Mahle
 

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Just a copy and paste

Baseline flow on the heads in out of box shape using 4.030 bore and #1206 radius plate (not port matched).
LIFT INTAKE CFM
.100 - 63.93
.150 - 100.33
.200 - 133.69
.250 - 164.20
.300 - 191.46
.350 - 215.47
.400 - 234.94
.450 - 250.51
.500 - 265.79
And anything after .500 lift it falls flat on its face . Very typical for a head like this. The valves that come in these heads are the LT4 sodium filled steams (lightweight valves) and have a 30 degree backcut from the factory.
 

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Baseline flow on the heads in out of box shape using 4.030 bore and #1206 radius plate (not port matched).
LIFT INTAKE CFM
.100 - 63.93
.150 - 100.33
.200 - 133.69
.250 - 164.20
.300 - 191.46
.350 - 215.47
.400 - 234.94
.450 - 250.51
.500 - 265.79
And anything after .500 lift it falls flat on its face . Very typical for a head like this. The valves that come in these heads are the LT4 sodium filled steams (lightweight valves) and have a 30 degree backcut from the factory.
WOW, with that kind of flow curve you really do want to make the best use of the lift after .400 and that would be a roller for sure. Great flow between 4 and 5. I am a little surprised at the .300 and .350 lift numbers. I don't think I have ever seen them before...Jack
 

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What size tires are you running with the 4.10? What are your 60ft times? Is there anything left to gain in the suspension department? You're trying to cut .32 sec right, can you get any help with better fuel or even the carb? Do you know the afr throughout the rpm range? Has it been at the Dyno for calibrating? sounds plausible. Good luck
 

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Can you take any weight off of the car? That's the most reliable way to go a little faster.

Chris.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Baseline flow on the heads in out of box shape using 4.030 bore and #1206 radius plate (not port matched).
LIFT INTAKE CFM
.100 - 63.93
.150 - 100.33
.200 - 133.69
.250 - 164.20
.300 - 191.46
.350 - 215.47
.400 - 234.94
.450 - 250.51
.500 - 265.79
And anything after .500 lift it falls flat on its face . Very typical for a head like this. The valves that come in these heads are the LT4 sodium filled steams (lightweight valves) and have a 30 degree backcut from the factory.
I found similar numbers here: http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/heads1.html#GM Fast Burn
But you should note the numbers at .600 lift are not all that different from many of the "better" after market heads. Plus mine have had the flashing removed and a 5 angle valve job.

Can you take any weight off of the car? That's the most reliable way to go a little faster.

Chris.
drop 200 lbs and run skinny fronts.
This is in the works, getting fiberglass bumpers (worth about 150 pounds) and new wheels/skinnies for up front.

guys thanks for all the feedback! If finances allow I sure would like to go a budget build on the 400 block. Even if not optimum another 50+ cubes should easily put it there.
 

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Even if not optimum another 50+ cubes should easily put it there.
Yeah but it's way more fun and cool to do it with a 355. Guys always expect to see a 400 or at least a 383 with AFR's under my hood when I go to the track. :no: It baffles them even more that it's done with camel humps.
 

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in my opinion, i would use the 350 block to build whatever. i've seen way too many 400 blocks crack down the cylinder walls, even in stock bores. sure theres substitution for cubic inch, but i think a 355 or 383 is the way to go. and last time i checked, you can get these parts cheaper.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Update

Couldn't help it with limited funds......:eek:

But finishing the install of the NOS Powershot kit and getting her set up on a dyno.....11's in the 1/4 here I come..!
 
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