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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey everyone!

So at the end of last season, I dropped a valve and decided to build a new motor for my '74 (it was a mild 355). I intend on using it as a weekend warrior, taking it to the track when its finished.

I've never built a motor (its been on my bucket list since I was 8) and I'm a relative newb when it comes to working on my car, but I've been doing research for ages and decided this was a good excuse to get moving. I just seem to have a ton of questions.

I got lucky and scored a pretty clean 4 bolt main 350 (Casting No. 14010207) and a cool 70's turbo kit for a carbed SBC for $500 from a buddy who had it just lying around. I've already torn it down and degreased it. Now I have to find an affordable machine shop in Ottawa to take it to.

Now, I know I want to go stroker (my plan was originally to build a high compression N/A motor) and have found a few rotating assemblies that sound good. I also know I want it forged, but since finding this turbo kit, I've become really interested in using it, but as I said I'm pretty new to all this...

This is the kit I've been looking at:
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http://www.jegs.com/i/Scat/942/1-40760BI/10002/-1?parentProductId=#moreDetails

Scat #942-1-40760BI
4340 Forged Rotating Assembly
383ci
Pistons: Flat
Bore: 4.030"
Stroke: 3.750"
H-Beam Rod: 6.000"

Compression Ratios
58cc cylinder heads: 11.8
64cc cylinder heads: 11.0
70cc cylinder heads: 10.3
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Up until now, I planned on using the heads that came with the motor (Casting No. 462624). After doing some more research, I've discovered that (at least according to most) these are the worst GM production heads ever made, and are extremely prone to cracking... specifically around the exhaust seats. unless I can clean up the heads that are on the car now. Any advice on that front?

Now, for the turbo:
The kit was lying in a box, and includes 1 exhaust manifold which seems to bolt directly to the turbo, which is an Airesearch T-04B35, a plate that seems to bolt in between in intake manifold and the carb with a valve on it, a pair of valve covers and most of the original tubing. I'll post a picture when I can, but I've never seen a kit like this and have been googling to no avail. Can a turbo run safely off only 1 bank of an engine? Would that not put an uneven amount of force between the banks on the motor?

Thanks in advance, and apologies for length.
 

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The cylinder that does not have the turbo is a crossover pipe that exhasuts to the turbo side manifold, then both sides will be on one exhaust( or one pipe )I hope I was able to answer your question if not I could take pictures of my turbo diesel if that will help. as far as force, turbos create back pressure which is bad for the cylinders, a good turbo will have less back pressure, this old set up might be a bad idea, and heads could be changed and you could use the valve cover on the new heads, I am assuming that one valave cover has a CDR valve to for oil in the tubine ( not an oil drain just a filter for excess oil)
 

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I'm not a big turbo guy but what I've read and seen over the years, you should be looking at compression ratio's @ 7.5-8:1 not 11:1. I think you're also going to need to purchase a blow through carb if you want to stay the old school route. Also a digital ignition system system that can take some timing out as boost builds unless you plan on running a water/meth setup.
 
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