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Tubular Control arms

11650 Views 27 Replies 18 Participants Last post by  Jtai
I know some of you are leery of offshore made parts, but $259 delivered for a full set of upper AND lower arms is hard to pass up. I'm waiting for Fedex to drop off the ones I bought for my El Camino.



http://www.kmjent.com/email/20120823.html
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Yeah, I wouldn't touch them.
But that's me and by all means report your findings.
I know some of you are leery of offshore made parts, but $259 delivered for a full set of upper AND lower arms is hard to pass up. I'm waiting for Fedex to drop off the ones I bought for my El Camino.



http://www.kmjent.com/email/20120823.html
I bought a set for one of my Nova's as well. I disassembled them and removed the coating to see what they looked like in bare form. They where actually pretty nice to my amazement. Welds are nice and they key mount and joint areas are all in spec. I am getting them powder coated by my brother and will re assemble them and install them back on car. My Buddy also bought the Chevelle ones and just installed out of the box. he has had no problems whatsoever!!
They look beefy to me. I would use them.
My buddy has these on a 67 camaro that runs low 10's, been on his car for 3 years with wheels up launches and not one issue ever! I can tell you this though, they are heavier then stock control arms!!!:yes:
Looks very interesting, thanks for the post. I'm going to be switching the front drum brakes on my 69 to power disc and was wondering if I should upgrade the the control arms, springs and shocks together. Those arms would work well for that. I wonder what they have for front springs...
Are those the 2" drop pocket lower a arms or stock?
Stock height as far as I know. I haven't even opened the boxes, but I assume they are Pro Comp pieces.
just installed these tubular control arms

I just recently installed these tubular control arms in question. Got them off of ebay. See page 2 of my thread here for closeups
Im a little worried about the negative camber that i have. It measure between 4-5 degrees on each side. Also, the car seems to sit lower, but this could be due to worn out springs b/c the springs came with the car and i dont know the history behind them (could be the stock ones for all i know). See pics below that i took last night. There is no adjustment for shims to push the upper control arm out (toward fenders) which seems like would alleviate this camber problem. The shims seem like they would be put on the other side of the shock tower/bracket which would bring the upper c.a. towards the engine, and cause even more negative camber.

What are yalls thoughts on this?









Also, the lowest point of my car is now the lower control arms, which are a little less than 3 inches from the ground (i can barely get my closed fist in between the lower c.a. and the ground). This is a drag car, so i may be ok, just need to make sure they dont slam down and hit the ground.
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Got the same ones on my car. Been there for 2 years with no issues!
Slow Nova,
I looked through your pics in your signature, and didnt see a pic from the front head on. Does yours have this much negative camber as well?
Slow Nova,
I looked through your pics in your signature, and didnt see a pic from the front head on. Does yours have this much negative camber as well?
I have 1 degree of negative camber. Looks like you have much more :yes:
Have you had an alignment done :confused:
an alignment wont help. as mentioned above, shims will only make it worse. after some research, it looks like i need an offset cross shaft, to allow the upper control arm to move towards the fenders, and give me less negative camber. See the pic below of my current cross shaft, with all the shims removed:





Im wondering if This Global West Offset Cross Shaft will provide me with enough, b/c it states that it will give about 1-1/4 degree gain, but im at about 4 degrees, and this wont be enough.
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You need more spring. The steering rods should be level with the ground. Had this same problem on my brother's Chevelle. Cranked up the coil overs, and it lined right up...

T,
thanks Tom, ill investigate this.

Can someone provide me a bolt-to-bolt dimension lower rearmost control arm bolt? Since i have cut the original crossmember out, and have welded in a removeable crossmember, im wondering if my frame rails have twisted a little. I can easily fix this, i just need a dimension. Thanks!
My buddy had an issue similar to this on his camaro with these arms and I believe all he did was roll the cross shaft over if that makes sense. Unbolt it and roll it over 180* then bolt it back in see if that helps.:yes:
1 step closerr

Thanks for the advice Fasteddie. I measured the cross shaft with a pair of calipers, and it is not offset, so flipping it wont give me any more positive camber.

But, i just realized that i was measuring the camber with the removable crossmember (under the oil pan) not bolted in place. Afer looking closer, it looked like both frame rails were twisting towards the engine, probably due to the weight of the engine with no support underneath. I jacked the car up, bolted it in, and now im sitting at 3 degrees negative camber, instead of 5.

I think a combination of 2 things will get me to 0 degrees.
1. An offset cross shaft. From what i read, the offset cross shaft is good for almost 2 degrees.
2. new springs (mine are worn out and/or have a coil cut out). This will likely give me the remainig 1 degree, b/c i notice as i jack the car up and the control arms begin to droop, i gain 2 degrees at full droop, indicating the camber gets positive as the springs get "taller", just as TomM mentioned
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Im ordering this set off ebay, but all of my steering and suspension bushings are shot any suggestion for polyurathame bushings that would come complete and not brake the bank?
bushings

ON A BUDGET, the problem your going to run into is that the front end bushing kits are going to come with ball joints and control arm bushings, which your new tubulars will come with. But, it's not bad to have an extra set of ball joints. Here is an ebay kit:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/68-74-Nova-...s&fits=Model:Nova&hash=item27c957bf9b&vxp=mtr

You could probably ebay message him and ask how much without the ball joints and ca bushings, but I wouldn't expect anything less than $130 or so, which is pretty good considering what all your getting. I would also recommend compiling a parts list price comparison on AutoZone website just to see what you would spend through them
ON A BUDGET, the problem your going to run into is that the front end bushing kits are going to come with ball joints and control arm bushings, which your new tubulars will come with. But, it's not bad to have an extra set of ball joints. Here is an ebay kit:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/68-74-Nova-...s&fits=Model:Nova&hash=item27c957bf9b&vxp=mtr

You could probably ebay message him and ask how much without the ball joints and ca bushings, but I wouldn't expect anything less than $130 or so, which is pretty good considering what all your getting. I would also recommend compiling a parts list price comparison on AutoZone website just to see what you would spend through them

I wouldnt mind keeping an extra set of ball joints and C A bushings, My car really needs them, I dont believe that the bushings have ever been changed on the car, so its riding on 44 year old bushings! :no:
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