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Where does the coil spring mount in that setup? In the OEM setup, it sits on top of the upper control arm. Those tubular upper arms don't appear to accomodate a coil spring. :confused:
 

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Rex, I think those are lower A-arms. they allow adjustment by eliminating the strut rods (per article on the classic performance website)
 

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NIIN20 said:
Its just a lower control arm kit.
Doh! :eek: Makes sense now. It'd be nice if they showed a pic of it installed in a car too.

Is camber still adjusted by eccentrics though?? Seems like a lockout setup would be a better choice.

Looks like a nice setup. I've still got some of their parts on my wish list.
 

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NovatoriusRex said:
Doh! :eek: Makes sense now. It'd be nice if they showed a pic of it installed in a car too.

Is camber still adjusted by eccentrics though?? Seems like a lockout setup would be a better choice.

Looks like a nice setup. I've still got some of their parts on my wish list.
Yep. Looks like both front and rear of the lower control arm mounts are adjusted with eccentrics. Bad thing is thats a heck of a chunk of steel on the nose(1/4"). But for 350 bucks its pretty cool!
 

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i think that's a deal at that price:) i would add the coilover spring replacement kit with this kit. for less than a $1000,i think it would work great. oh-oh,maybe another project coming up:confused: what do you think?
 

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Damn, now I have something. else to buy. Looks like a good kit to me. What is the weight diffrence between stock and this kit???
 

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How do you dial in caster with that arrangement? I assume that you adjust the front and rear eccentrics independently to move the lower ball joint fore and aft, but it seems to me that doing so may induce bind, unless those bushings are complient. :confused:
 

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John65ss said:
How do you dial in caster with that arrangement? I assume that you adjust the front and rear eccentrics independently to move the lower ball joint fore and aft, but it seems to me that doing so may induce bind, unless those bushings are complient. :confused:
I was wondering the same thing. Everyone said on my other thread Caster should only be adjusted through the strut rods. so......now what? No caster adjustment? I would like to know more about this set up.

Dave
 

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lowerING springs?

Looks like you go from one eccentric per side to two, judging by the eccentric plates I see. Not quite sure though, because there is also a slot to move the front bushing in or out.
Soooo... What's the gain here? I can see some stiffness benefits, but for $350 I could box the stock lower controll arms and add a cross-brace between the strut rod mounts and still have plenty left over.
 

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John65ss said:
How do you dial in caster with that arrangement? I assume that you adjust the front and rear eccentrics independently to move the lower ball joint fore and aft, but it seems to me that doing so may induce bind, unless those bushings are complient. :confused:
You are correct on your caster adjusting assumptions. As far as the bushings binding it is unlikely because of the very small range of adjustment on the eccentrics.

I have done many alignments on trucks and SUVs with this type of lower control arm adjusting arrangement, and alignment can be somewhat difficult because caster and camber need to be adjusted simultaniously.
 

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NOGO said:
You are correct on your caster adjusting assumptions. As far as the bushings binding it is unlikely because of the very small range of adjustment on the eccentrics.

I have done many alignments on trucks and SUVs with this type of lower control arm adjusting arrangement, and alignment can be somewhat difficult because caster and camber need to be adjusted simultaniously.
So, what do you think of it? Does it have an advantage over the stock setup? As was mentioned, I have a hard time seeing how it wouldn't be knocked out of alignment at the first bump, just like stock.
 
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