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Troy's LS powered '66 coupe build

6K views 23 replies 10 participants last post by  BoogLexus 
#1 ·
I guess at some point you have to stop asking questions and start spending money.

Short Story - I have a 1966 Nova Coupe that I bought from an 85 year old Home Economics teacher from the Wapheton State School of Science in ND. The car has a documented 34K, but it is a Midwest car, and she had a few run ins with her garage door, so one side was painted by the students in the school in the 80s I was told. I bought the car when I was 17. I've crossed the 40 yr mark, so it's been around a while.

It may look familiar, it is a near factory clone to Tom's LSA build. Two tone blue, 283 PG. All I've done over the years is 2" lowering all around, new plug wires (it had the originals), and a eldelbrock rpm intake with Holley 600, and a pypes stainless exhaust.

Over the years, it seems like it continues to leak, smoke and run more poorly. I'ver asked a lot a questions and am now diving in. It will be a somewhat budget build, at least compared to most LS. Engine/Trans will be stock, and using truck accessories. Here is what is going in:

Parts I have:
-2012 LC9 (all aluminum 5.3 out of a suburban)
-2004 4L60E
-LS brakes with stop tech rotors
-F-body pan and related parts
-Driveshaft for swap (thanks Batman!)

Just ordered:
-CBR complete R&P kit with power rack (using stock column)
-CBR uppers
-CBR Mid-length headers
-CBR down pipes
-CBR trans cross member
-CBR entropy radiator
-PSI conversions engine/trans controller kit

Intend to order:
-Dakota Digital VHX - black alloy with white lighting
-Keugel components shift linkage kit
-Shiftworks overdrive shift indicator
-Vintage Air Gen IV - (using truck compressor)
-engine mounts (CBR was fixed, going to get some with adjustment to help with truck A/C fitment)
-Tanks Inc. tank, sending unit, straps, etc.
-LS fuel line kit with corvette regulator
-Derale trans cooler (not sure which one yet)
-Right stuff detailing brake line kit for a manual 4 wheel disc system.
-Wilwood E master with prop valve 7/8" (will be a manual system)

Future as budget allows:
-Air ride or coilovers.
-Dynamat interior
-hidden stereo
- freshen interior parts/seat covers
-power windows with factory cranks as switches
- cruise control

That is all for now. Hoping this thread keeps me motivated to get it on the road by spring. I hate projects that sit for years, I have enough of those.

Thanks,
Troy
 

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#3 ·
Question #1:

I just got off the phone with PSI, trying to order my engine controller kit. He said my trans will not work, and I need an '07 or newer 15 pin connector, since I have a newer 58x engine. Can't believe I've never seen this before.

I don't have a lot wrapped up in my trans, so not the end of the world, but now I have to find another. Anyone got recommendations for a rebuilt in the Mpls/St. Paul area?

Canceled my order with PSI for now. Was hoping to get the 20% black friday pricing, but don't want to order the wrong parts. Might give BP automotive a call, the NJ guys talked too fast for me. Had a hard time keeping up with him.
 
#5 ·
Not sure you got the right guy. The 15 pin is for a 4L80E if I'm not mistaken, the 60E is 13 pin.....I am running a 4L60E behind a 58X E38 ECM with a T42 trans control module. My trans is also an 04.

Question #2:

Tried to order the Vintage Air system from Matt's Classic Bowtie. He said it is likely the compressor on my engine is a variable displacement (not compatible), and not the typical fixed displacement. Anyone know how to identify?

Also, the sander compressor that many of you use, would this work with truck accessories? I know most of you run the car stuff.

Thanks,
Troy
He is probably right, there are a few years that are fixed displacement, but don't remember what years. The Sanden will work, you just need to get the right bracket. Alan Grove makes a bracket to run the Sanden with truck spacing...

First one on the list....

https://www.alangrovecomponents.com/LS.htm


T,
 
#4 ·
Question #2:

Tried to order the Vintage Air system from Matt's Classic Bowtie. He said it is likely the compressor on my engine is a variable displacement (not compatible), and not the typical fixed displacement. Anyone know how to identify?

Also, the sander compressor that many of you use, would this work with truck accessories? I know most of you run the car stuff.

Thanks,
Troy
 
#8 ·
#10 ·
Just curious why you're set on using truck accessories. By the time you buy this or that to make it work you might be surprised at the cost. I've got a couple of buddies that use truck engines and always buy Vintage Air Front Runner setups and when you look at the big picture they really aren't that expensive for what your getting.
 
#11 ·
Don't get me wrong that setup is nice and probably worth it, but I think that set up is $2,800. I've been saving for a while and getting a deals when I can. I have all the current accessories (free w/engine), and the only item that may or may not work is the A/C compressor. If it doesn't work, it is $230 for the bracket and $200 for the Sanden C7. $2,800 is quite a leap from $430. I have not doubt it much nicer, but the same could be said for any aspect of the build. It is all compromises.
 
#15 ·
Just an update regarding using stock GM A/C compressor. I knew going in, that many have used the fixed pumps off of truck engines with some success. I confirmed that the Denso 10S17F and 10S20F are the fixed displacement pumps.

Most of the cars pumps are variable, and appear not to work, or are less than ideal if they do.

Also found that the GM pumps use a #8 o-ring and line, which most of the aftermarket VA, etc. use #10 fittings and lines. It looks like you need to use an adapter like this:

https://warrperformance.com/?product=ls-swap-ac-adapter-fittings-2-8-fittings

The engine out of the suburban that I am using has an 10S17F pump, so I'll be moving forward with what I've got, and hope it works out.

Thanks,
T
 
#16 ·
I stated in an earlier post that a rep at PSI told me I needed a newer 15 pin plugged 4l60e trans. I talked with Bill at BP Automotive at length today and he said that it is absolutely no problem to run my 13 pinned '04 trans with my Gen VI engine. Thought it would be good to put that out there in case someone was searching for the same thing.

He was super helpful. I will be ordering from him soon. His build time is 4-6 weeks currently due to the holidays. He's got me thinking Cam with VVT/AFM/DOD delete, but not sure I can swing it, or want to open that can of worms.
 
#18 ·
Haven't posted in a while, so thought I'd give an update. Engine is cleaned and painted up. Decided to leave it all stock for now. Didn't want to add anymore complexity and cost to the build right now. The LS swap is enough, but adding A/C, church boys, 4 wheel discs, etc it is getting to be a lot.

Once the car is set up and sorted out, maybe I'll build an engine in the future. Or pony up for a nice crate motor.

Used all truck accessories. I will be going to the Sanden A/C compressor and the Dirty Dingo bracket. The stock truck pump's bearings didn't sound too good, and not worth the gamble. Plus that could move to a new engine in the future.

Blacked out the Accessories and pretty happy the way they turned out. I can se the appeal of a crate motor. Even though this wasn't a greasy engine, it still took a lot of detailing. LS pan and new plugs and wires.

On the bench, is the Church boys parts, and LS brakes with stop tech rotors and hawk pads.

My Dad is coming to visit next week, and hopefully pull the old engine/trans, and start cleaning up the engine bay.

Engine Auto part Motor vehicle Automotive engine part Vehicle


Auto part Engine Vehicle Automotive engine part Car


Workbench Room Furniture Tool Wood
 
#19 ·
that nova is going to be a hot ride when its finished. that motor should more than get the job done. the way its on that engine stand looks like it needs an extra brace to hold it up in the front.
 
#20 ·
I had the bolts on the engine stand arms in the wrong direction, so they wouldn't let the flywheel rotate. i have the loosened up so not as much of the bolt gets i the way causing it to lean. Normally isn't like that, just didn't want to hook the engine hoist back up to correct it.
 
#21 ·
Engine is out and cleaning/painting the engine bay currently.
Motor vehicle Vehicle Car Automobile repair shop Engine


Question on the transmission. There is a heat shield and a bracket. Not sure what the bracket is for, do I need to use both of these? If so, I'll clean them up and install now. I hate to get it in the car and realize they need to be used, but also don't want to waste time if they are not. Thanks for the help.
Bumper Automotive exterior
 
#22 ·
Trans all cleaned up and painted. Due to costs, running with the used trans. Hopefully it holds out long enough to save up for a performabuilt or something similar.

Fluid looked and smelled good. New filter, and put in a corvette servo I bought years ago for a silverado I had, and never installed.

I threw together the wood engine stand with scraps I had in the garage. I wanted to use my engine stand for working on the trans, and hated to put the engine on the ground. It made it crazy easy for bolting up the trans and torque converter.

Fuel tank is out, and I'm driving past Monticello, IA next week for work. This is where Tanks inc. is located. They have a retail store, but not sure it is a better deal versus paying no sales tax and free shipping many retailers offer. Have to look into it.
 

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#23 ·
Question for you guys who have done CBR and LS brake upgrade. I'm getting real closet actually bolting parts on, and have to order a few items.


Brake lines: I know I'll have to custom bend some brake lines along the cross member, but what pre-bent lines do you recommend to make things go faster? I see Right Stuff has a kit for conversions, but not sure it I needed all the pieces. I'm ordering the manual 7/8" wildwood master with proportioning valve.

Spindles: I was hoping to use my stock spindles, but there is a little wear where the bearing sits. It would probably be fine, but thought I'd check what you all use. I see them on eBay, but most are for disk conversions, and wasn't sure it they are compatible with the CBR/LS. Does CBR sell them?

I'm using my CPP 2" drop springs, and see that the CBR arms drop it about 3/4". Hoping it won't be too low. lower the better, but hopefully won't rub. I currently have 17x8 with 4.5" bs, and 205/50/17 tires. Anyone run something similar?

Appreciate the help!
 
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