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Discussion Starter #21
I talked to Cooling Components tech support and they asked me to send my fan back to them so they could verify it was functioning correctly. In the mean time, I upgraded to a Cold Case radiator. I installed it this evening. It is a nice looking piece. The tanks are stamped rather than welded like the Champion. Also, it uses two 1.25" thick cores for a total thickness of 2.5" which is 1/2" more than the Champion. I also checked and my thermostat was a 195. I swapped it out with a 180. Hopefully my fan will arrive in a day or two and I can road test it again.
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Discussion Starter #22
I forgot to mention, I also replaced the lower radiator hose with a universal style that has a spring in it.
 

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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
Cooling Components called me today. They tested my fan and said it was working correctly. He asked me if my car would cool when running 30 mph. I told him probably not but it seemed to cool at 45 mph. Because of this, we are optimistic that the new Cold Case radiator will solve the issue. My fan is supposed to ship today so I should have it Monday and be able to road test my car again. You can't buy a fan that will move as much air as driving 45 mph.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
My fan arrived this morning. I reinstalled it and drove it several miles on a big lap around town. After I got back to the shop, I let it idle for about 20 minutes. It was getting up to about 220 degrees with the A/C on where before it was trying to hit 250 and I was having to shut the motor off. I suspect that the newly installed corrugated lower radiator hose may be restricting water flow at an idle causing it to still be slightly hot. Once I start moving, it cools down pretty quickly. I will change it out in the near future to see if that will resolve the problem. However, the new Cold Case radiator alone seems to have made a HUGE difference.
 

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Mike - 74 Nova Baltimore, MD
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I remember reading another post about engine overheating at idle was due to inadequate alternator amperage (at idle) when using electric radiator cooling fans... the alternator did not provide enough to power/amperage to meet the demands of the vehicle's electrical components during idle. I just can't find the post at the moment.

It looks like OP has electric cooling fan(s) and AC. I wonder if the alternator can not keep of with the amperage needs of the electric fans during idle (with the AC also on?)... therefore, lowering the cooling fan's rpm (... and cfm).
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Update - I am using a Cooling Components slim profile electric fan with shroud. I had the fan wired through a 70 amp relay. A friend of mine read an article in Hot Rod a month or two ago about alternators and asked me if I had enough alternator on the car. I was running a 105 amp alternator and he said that alternators were measured in peak amps. A 105 amp alternator may only put out 60 amps or so at idle. As heat builds, the amp out put goes down even more, maybe as low at 45 or 50 amps. I did some research and decided to upgrade to a 160 amp alternator. It seems to have solved the problem. The weird thing is that the old 105 amp alternator charged my battery enough so it would start the car with out bogging down. However, it seems that it didn't charge the battery enough to spin the fan at full rpms.
 

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Update - I am using a Cooling Components slim profile electric fan with shroud. I had the fan wired through a 70 amp relay. A friend of mine read an article in Hot Rod a month or two ago about alternators and asked me if I had enough alternator on the car. I was running a 105 amp alternator and he said that alternators were measured in peak amps. A 105 amp alternator may only put out 60 amps or so at idle. As heat builds, the amp out put goes down even more, maybe as low at 45 or 50 amps. I did some research and decided to upgrade to a 160 amp alternator. It seems to have solved the problem. The weird thing is that the old 105 amp alternator charged my battery enough so it would start the car with out bogging down. However, it seems that it didn't charge the battery enough to spin the fan at full rpms.
The battery doesn't power anything once the alternator is running, and it only takes a few minutes at 10 amps to recharge it after you start the car.
The Cooling Components CCI-1730 only draws 16-22 amps while operating. There is no reason why a properly operating 105A alternator couldn't handle that at an idle. In order to reduce the surge current on startup you can wire it as a 2-speed.
 

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I don’t know if this helps, lol. I had same radiator on a 550hp 383 and it would run real hot. Switched to a 2 core griffin with 1.25 tubes and it ran super cool. Idk if it’s the tube size or what but I had no luck with champion
I had the exact same issue with my 408 and the Champion, I pulled it and switched to the Griffin and now I cant do enough to get it to go to 190... on a hot day in traffic!! Was so impressed I put 1 in my 55 that has a nasty 434inch small block and same thing, 190 on a hot day is as high as she'll go, nice product
 

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Had griffin in my 66 had no problem with until put surpentine in then got 🥵 before this only 190 next rad cbr 185 in 100degree and 575hp
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Discussion Starter #34
The battery doesn't power anything once the alternator is running, and it only takes a few minutes at 10 amps to recharge it after you start the car.
The Cooling Components CCI-1730 only draws 16-22 amps while operating. There is no reason why a properly operating 105A alternator couldn't handle that at an idle. In order to reduce the surge current on startup you can wire it as a 2-speed.
Hi Mike,

I have a lot more than just the cooling fans. I have an A/C blower motor, I have a computer for my FiTech Fuel Injection, I have a fairly large in tank fuel pump, I have a TCI EZ TCU computer for my transmission, and I have an MSD ignition system. It occurs to me that the 1994 Chevy Pick up that I got the alternator from had similar systems... except that they ran a clutch fan instead of an electric one and the truck system didn't have as large of fuel pump or as strong of ignition system. So, if this alternator only puts out 45 or 50 amps as it gets hot, it is conceivable that my fan draws 16-22 amps, my fuel pump probably pulls 10-15 amps, my ignition system ?, by blower motor?, my fuel injection?, my transmission computer?. You can see that I don't have to stretch very far to get to 45 or 50 amps. Anyway, the larger alternator seems to have solved the overheating problem. I talked to the guy's at Sachse Rod Shop and they told me that with the increased electrical needs of modern street rods, they have been putting 150 amp alternators on everything they build for a long time and have not ran into any issues since they started doing so. I am certainly not an electrical engineer and there may be some flaws in my logic on why it solved my problem, but it does seem to have worked.
 

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I have basi the same stuff you are running in tank fuel pump msd. And also used with sniper fuel injection, car runs cool pic of car with sniper
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150 amp is what’s on receipt only reason not running sniper not enough vacuum causing to many problems I didn’t want to deal with back to carb
 

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Sachse Rod Shop (Miles Road) = Sachse , Texas . . . . . . Have you been too Sachse , Tx lately . . . . . ?
Holy cow = talk about "urban growth" . . . . they have had it .
As, growing up , and driving towards Lake Lavon . . . . . I'd "Blink" and almost drive pass ol' Sachse . . . . .
not any - more . . . . . wow - Big City , now . man - - Like Really Big City, now. Then, I also have a very good
High School friend that still lives in Sachse.
Then, again , I could say the same thing about "Rowlett & Rockwall" .......... (but, it's been 50 years, too) .

Times 'Fly' when your hiding - out - in Chino Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . wow .

(old home-sick . . . . ) , jim
 
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