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Curious as to the degree of improvement traction bars (specifically lakewoods bars) would give on my nova. I recently purchased a 73 with a relativly stock 327 making anywhere from 235-290 hp (havnt had it on the dyno, just a guess), matched up to a turbo350 and a 8.5" 10bolt.

The reason i'm asking is because I recently purchased a full bushings/ball joint suspension kit from energy suspension and am cuirious since i will be disasebling and reassembling the better part of the cars suspension/chassis wether or not to install traction bars during the process. I'm not planning to increase the hp above 400 anytime soon so would I really expect to notice any substantial gains from the addition of bars?

Any opnions?
 

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My car came with and old set of Lakewoods from the 70's installed on it. I don't like the looks of them, so when I upgraded to multi-leaf springs I ditched the bars. I have about 400hp with an open diff and can't tell the difference one way or the other. I didn't have wheel hop before and I don't now. Maybe with more traction I could have seen a difference. My engine just spins that little passenger side 215/60-15 silly!:devil:. There really isn't a chance of wheel hop taking place. What I really need is mud flaps to keep the burnt rubber off my quarter panel and exhaust pipe! I also didn't like how close to the ground they were...didn't want to take the chance of dragging them on something. My car is street only so they were unnecessary.
 

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I tried my 70 Acadian with and without the slapper bars. I have multileaf springs and without the bars, I had significant wheel hop. With them, no hop.

When I redid the springs, I put it together without the bars and after I put some miles on the car, I put the bars back on. All of the bushings and springs had settled down and the bars went on pretty easy.

Trying to justify the cost of Cal Tracs or Slide a links. We will see what the year brings.

ray
 

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Do you still have the Traction bars you took off?

Dave
I was afraid someone would ask me that. I tossed them out couple of weeks ago. They had been sandblasted and painted black...so they didn't have any vintage patina. sorry
 

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If you are not getting wheel hop or not even running the car street-strip then you really don't need traction bars.

The Competition Engineering ones sit higher than the universal bolt on on's of the past. I run them on my cars(when I have a car) and am known to put the car full throttle sideways at any given moment. :)
 

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Caltracs are relatively cheap, and are physically smaller and lighter than lakewoods. I'm taking my old traction bars off early spring to replace them with caltracs.

The caltracs performed much better in every other car I've had the chance to do a comparison. Lakewoods are still effective and much cheaper, so lots of people seem to prefer them.
 

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Depending upon how much tire and how sticky they are, I would think you could control wheel hop with shocks on a multi leaf spring car. On a single leaf, whole nother story.
 

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My car definitely hooks up better with them on vs before I put them on. I have multi-leafs too and the wheels would hop a little sometimes before they were on.

Caltracs seem to be the way to go nowadays, most guys love them and they seem to work great. But the CE traction bars I have work great too. They're a little bit more robust than the old Lakewoods and the rubber snubber reaches up to the front spring perch eyelet which is what you really want.

You probably don't need them if you're not planning on making a ton of power or going to the track, but I think they do help in some situations even on the street. If it's in your budget it'd be cool to do, but not necessary.
 

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My car definitely hooks up better with them on vs before I put them on. I have multi-leafs too and the wheels would hop a little sometimes before they were on.

Caltracs seem to be the way to go nowadays, most guys love them and they seem to work great. But the CE traction bars I have work great too. They're a little bit more robust than the old Lakewoods and the rubber snubber reaches up to the front spring perch eyelet which is what you really want.

You probably don't need them if you're not planning on making a ton of power or going to the track, but I think they do help in some situations even on the street. If it's in your budget it'd be cool to do, but not necessary.
Carl, I run CE bars also. Just curious what snubber gap you are running and If it is different from right to left. I'm still trying to get my car to launch straight, and have been trimming the snubbers. With both against the spring eye, it hit so hard that it would break traction. I may need to shim them. It was hooking hard left, so I took more off the right side so it hit later. It seemed to help some but, I'm not quite there.
 

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If you have multi-leafs under 600hp and don't like regular traction bars try a set of these Harrel Clamps. I have a set on my Nova, they work.
 

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If you have multi-leafs under 600hp and don't like regular traction bars try a set of these Harrel Clamps. I have a set on my Nova, they work.

Harrell clamps. You just have them on the front part of the springs?

My buddy used to clamp his like that years back.
 

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I have a 400-ish HP engine going in my '66 with 3 leaf, leaf springs. If I have axle wrap I'm going to try the Hellwig leaf spring bars that prevent axle wrap. I found good reviews on several car websites about these not only improving traction but also handling.
They cost about $50.00 for the pair, you can install them yourself, they don't hang down like traction bars & Hellwig finally got rid of the bright red powder coat & now coats them black.

They were originally called Traction Control Springs 2000, now they're EZ-550.
 

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Carl, I run CE bars also. Just curious what snubber gap you are running and If it is different from right to left. I'm still trying to get my car to launch straight, and have been trimming the snubbers. With both against the spring eye, it hit so hard that it would break traction. I may need to shim them. It was hooking hard left, so I took more off the right side so it hit later. It seemed to help some but, I'm not quite there.
I think mine are different from side to side. Think one is 3/8" gap and the other is 1/4" or maybe 1/2" gap? I can't remember offhand, would have to go measure again. I think I had the passenger side gap tighter though.

If I can get my car to the track this year I'll see how it goes. Last year they seemed to work good but the car wasn't launching that hard since I had the wrong converter in the car at the time.
 

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sbc1320 : They are on the top front of the spring.

Mexirican : I made these clamps, if you are interested I can send you the dimensions and details, they are very easy to make if you have access to a welder or know someone who could weld a couple beads for you.
 

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sbc1320 : They are on the top front of the spring.

Mexirican : I made these clamps, if you are interested I can send you the dimensions and details, they are very easy to make if you have access to a welder or know someone who could weld a couple beads for you.
Yes I knew they were on top like that, but only needed on the front overlapping springs. Can just use the short pieces across each overlapping springs that are on the front side of the rearend.
 

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I was afraid someone would ask me that. I tossed them out couple of weeks ago. They had been sandblasted and painted black...so they didn't have any vintage patina. sorry
Wow...they could have been restored.

Dave
67 Nova Boy
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks for all the replies!

Looks like if I decide to throw some bars on ill go with some cal tracks over lakewoods! I'll be rippin into the suspension soon and doing some upgrading and restoring on the whole car. I'll throw up a build thread when im further along come summer!
 

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Thanks for all the replies!

Looks like if I decide to throw some bars on ill go with some cal tracks over lakewoods! I'll be rippin into the suspension soon and doing some upgrading and restoring on the whole car. I'll throw up a build thread when im further along come summer!
Might take a look at the SRD Assassin bars also
 
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