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Traction Bars Question

1531 Views 3 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  PCPete
Hey guys I have a 71 Nova here that I am current;y restoring and I dropped a freshly build 350 SBC bored over.60. It has a 10 bolt rear with a TH350. I was wondering if I would have a problem with the front lifting a little when I got on it without have traction bars. Basically I don't want to waste my money on traction bars if I'm not going to need them. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you
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Na, you don't need those pesky traction bars... What you need is 8 pieces of 3/6" thick (or the exact thickness of your leaf springs), cut them a little wider than the leaf springs( wide enough to drill a 3/8 to 7/16" hole in them) and bolt those over the front part of the leaf springs where the metal overlaps the other leafs.


At the top part of this link;
http://www.timskelton.com/lightning/race_prep/suspension/leafs.htm

It shows a picture of what I'm talking about. Now, my car isn't running but I did get this information from a fellow member whom has this on his car and it's running just fine.

But......

Before you tackle the traction area, you must stiffen your frame with some sub frame connectors. This is a must if you are putting some torque and hp to the rear wheels.

Dan
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Na, you don't need those pesky traction bars... What you need is 8 pieces of 3/6" thick (or the exact thickness of your leaf springs), cut them a little wider than the leaf springs( wide enough to drill a 3/8 to 7/16" hole in them) and bolt those over the front part of the leaf springs where the metal overlaps the other leafs.


At the top part of this link;
http://www.timskelton.com/lightning/race_prep/suspension/leafs.htm

It shows a picture of what I'm talking about. Now, my car isn't running but I did get this information from a fellow member whom has this on his car and it's running just fine.

But......

Before you tackle the traction area, you must stiffen your frame with some sub frame connectors. This is a must if you are putting some torque and hp to the rear wheels.

Dan
Thank you, I appreciate it!
It's not the front end.....

It's the warping of the springs that creates wheel hop and breaks things. The old style slappers were okay in the day, but there are better ways to control the warpage today. I built a set similar to caltracks for under a c-note. There are a lot of options for controlling wheel hop.
As for the front end comping up, that's something you really want to happen. It puts more weight on the rear tires.....so if you can keep them hooked up and not hopping, you go forward.
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