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Discussion Starter #1
My traction bars are too low at the front now since putting in the new rear leafs, so how do I raise the front of them to get them closer to the leaf?

My bars bolt right to the leafs with U bolts and replace the lower spring pad mount.
 

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I had those, just tighten up the saftey u-bolt thats around the leaf and near the snubber until you have a 1/2" gap.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
OK I'll do that, thanks.:yes: I would like to go to Cal tracks, but these will do for now!
 

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I had those, just tighten up the saftey u-bolt thats around the leaf and near the snubber until you have a 1/2" gap.
Do not do that. The front U-bolt is to prevent the traction bars from dropping under hard braking or if something breaks.

The CORRECT way to adjust the traction bars (if uncut snubbers are too short) is with wedges places under the leaf springs:



2-deg wedges:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Lakewood/620/20500/10002/-1

4-deg wedges:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Lakewood/620/20510/10002/-1
 

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Do not do that. The front U-bolt is to prevent the traction bars from dropping under hard braking or if something breaks.

The CORRECT way to adjust the traction bars (if uncut snubbers are too short) is with wedges places under the leaf springs:



2-deg wedges:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Lakewood/620/20500/10002/-1

4-deg wedges:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Lakewood/620/20510/10002/-1
The wedge is for changing pinion angle for traction problems, tightening up the safety u-bolts on slappers is fine as long as you dont over do it and clamp them tight against the spring causing bind, just draw them up a bit and leave some gap.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I need about a 1/2" up at the snubber.
 

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The wedge is for changing pinion angle for traction problems, tightening up the safety u-bolts on slappers is fine as long as you dont over do it and clamp them tight against the spring causing bind, just draw them up a bit and leave some gap.
Yes, the wedges are used to correct pinion angle but they are also used to adjust slapper bars.
http://www.spiderautomotive.com/compc7025.html
Wedge plates for traction bars, pinion angle wedge plates by Competition Engineering C7025. As a pinion angle wedge plate, they allow the pinion angle to be changed in 2 degree increments. As a traction bar wedge plate they allow you to change the angle of the traction bar to get the rubber snubber in the correct area for best bar reaction. Designed for leaf spring vehicles. Unlike other wedge plates, these are designed with integral ribs, allowing the plates to be stacked without sliding. Contructed of 6063-T5 aluminum, these plates will not crack like other brands made out of cast zinc. Sold in pairs.

Tightening the safety strap is NOT the correct way to fix the problem. That creates unecessay binding.

See the NOTE in instruction #9 on page 2:
http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInstructions/600/620/620-21705.pdf
 

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Both are right, Scott I think he is talking about J bolt traction bars and talking about tighting them up, And what you are saying is correct the u bolt at front is for keeping bars from dropping down in front, With as much as you them them adjusted up Use the wedges and then adjust j Bolt
 

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Discussion Starter #10
My slappers don't have J bolts, they are held on by the 2 U bolts for the rear end, about 10" in front of the rear end is a plate with 2 bolts through it (pn either side of the leafs), with another plate above the leafs. If I tighten this, it will lift the bars into the correct position, but now there will be a load downward on the leafs.
 

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Sorry I thought Taz had J bolts, Than Scott is only one right, If you use the u bolt it will cause stress on it and break it, Do as Scott says or have a lot of problems in future
 

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Post a pic and lets see how bad they are, thats the only way to get a good answer, you guys are right if its hanging down alot, but not worth the effort to install wedges if a little.
 

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Hey Taz where do the snubbers hit the spring at? They should hit the spring on the eye to keep from bending or breaking the spring. I have saw some of the cheaper bars hit 3-4 inches back and cause problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yep I have the cheap ones that are too far back.:( I just need to lift them so they don't dig into the ground under hard braking.
 

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Ok, specific adjustment proceedures and pissing contests aside, answer me a quick querry if you will:

I know the slappers are for preventing wheel hop, by preventing spring torque. ( the springs twist into an 'S' shape, then snap back, causing wheel hop and pinion angle deviation).

Ok.. so what is the correct adjustment hieght for the snubbers, refrence to the contact point?

I once had a 68 ford falcon, and put traction bars on it.. the only way they seemed to make a positive difference, was to have the snubbers actually touching ( not a gap )
 

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Discussion Starter #17
For race or to do their job, you want them as close as possible to prevent any spring wrap at all, plus it beats up the floor bad if they slap too hard, because they're to far away. I like them at 1/2 to 1/4" away. The new springs have changed the angel on them and my old set had J bars to adjust them. These are cheap ones so I may get rid of them all together.
 

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I had the same short set you have and this is what i did: I made bolt on extentions using angle iron so the snubber now was under the spring eye, then trimmed the snubbers until i had 1/2 gap and used the saftey bolts for fine adjusting. If they are short and going to dig in the ground, a set of caltracs would be the way to go, because if you put wedges between the bars and the spring, you might have issues with the shock bolt rubbing the wheel on the drivers side. Hope i have helped in some way. :)
 

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Ok, specific adjustment proceedures and pissing contests aside, answer me a quick querry if you will:
It's not a pissing contest. It's the difference between doing it correctly and doing it incorrectly.

As for the gap, like taz said, very little gap but you still have to take it to the track and try it. Some cars like more gap than others. And as for where the snubber should hit, it shoudl be directly under the spring eye, no further back.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
And as for where the snubber should hit, it shoudl be directly under the spring eye, no further back.
Funny part is, I guess before they realized it, the most wrap is right behind the spring eye, where they hit.:rolleyes:
 
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