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So i took some of ur guys advice andwentand setmy total timing. Well i brought the car up to 3k rpms and set the timing at 36. So i brought car back down to idel and the base timing was 17 i find that nnot right. why do you think is up
 

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Was teh timing done advancing at 3000rpm or is that just where you set it at? If you rev to 3500, will it advance farther? If not, then you have 19 degrees of mechanical advance in your distributor. If you want your initial idle timing to be lower, you need to add more mechanical advance to your distributor. Some engine run initial timing like that though. My 350 likes 14 initial and 36 total.
 

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timing

So i took some of ur guys advice andwentand setmy total timing. Well i brought the car up to 3k rpms and set the timing at 36. So i brought car back down to idel and the base timing was 17 i find that nnot right. why do you think is up
Bring rpms up until timing mark is steady, 3000 is not cut in stone many variables to consider springs weights ,slack in distributor if points point bounce also I found it best to use an advance timing light with dial to dial in timing more acurate, just my opinion
 

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whenever you move the initial timing advance or retard it changes the total amount.. so with total at 36* and your initial at 17* you have 19* advance curve. So lets say you had the initial at 8* + 19* your timing at 3,000 was 27*. The advance curve is built into the distributor and can be changed via springs and weights and bushings. What is it that your trying to accomplish? running 17* initial timing is okay as long as it doesn't grunt when you try to start the car hot and doesn't ping while driving. Are you running a vacuum advance? that also plays a role in the overall advance curve whether your running manifold or ported vacuum to the advance diaphram.
 
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