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I have a 67 2 door SS, 327 bored 60 over, .480 lift wolverine cam, 9.7 compression I think, Holley 750 vac. secondary, idle is about 1800 rpm according to mechanic, who built the engine, headers, 3:08 rear gear, 350 turbo transmission, Boss Hog 3500 stall and shift kit, don't have a tachometer, in the process of getting one. Hopefully, I would like to change the rear gear to a 3:55 or 3:73.

Now, my question. I have never had a stall convertor. I don't know how it works. Does the transmission slip until the your engine reaches 3500 rpm. On level ground it's not too bad pulling out. When you turn the corner and start up a hill, it sounds like your flying and not really moving too fast.

Turned 50 and going into my adolescence again. Never had a car like this before, can't wait to finish it. Just to hear it idling gives you cold chills.

Anyway, if you all have some information for me I would appreciate it. Thanks for the information. Roger
 

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1800 idle is way off for that engine build, I think there's something wrong with the tune if your mechanic can't get it to idle down to at least 1000rpm.
Wolverine cams aren't very aggressive. With the right carb tune and advance curve it will be way more drivable-1800 rpm idle is just way off IMO. You'll need the steeper gears with that converter so it isn't building up heat down the highway. What are the cam specs? 290/480/112?
 

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1800 is WAY to high for that to idle at. There is no reason that you shouldn't be able to get that engine with that cam to idle at 1000 or less. I would check something things out and find out why it is so high. Here are the specs on the cam I just put in my 355 and it was idling at 1100.

Lift: .510/.533
Duration: 313/328
Duration @ .050": 244/254
Lobe Separation: 112 LC
 

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Discussion Starter #5
1800 idle is way off for that engine build, I think there's something wrong with the tune if your mechanic can't get it to idle down to at least 1000rpm.
Wolverine cams aren't very aggressive. With the right carb tune and advance curve it will be way more drivable-1800 rpm idle is just way off IMO. You'll need the steeper gears with that converter so it isn't building up heat down the highway. What are the cam specs? 290/480/112?
The cam spec on the card are Cam lift exh .320 valve lift, int. lift.480, Lobe ctrs int. 107 exh. 111. Adv.dur. 292 int and exh, at .050 dur. 230 int. and exh.

The idle may not be 1800, but that is what I thought I heard the mechanic say. Could be wrong don't have a tach. Also, it has been quite awhile since the rebuild. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I found the ticket where I bought the torque convertor. The torque convertor has a stall of 3200-3800. Roger
 

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That is a huge stall converter for that engine...you may want to get one that is 2500-2800rpms.Ps that isle is way too high...should be 750-800rpms at idle.bm
 

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When you turn the corner and start up a hill, it sounds like your flying and not really moving too fast.

Turned 50 and going into my adolescence again. Never had a car like this before, can't wait to finish it. Just to hear it idling gives you cold chills.

Anyway, if you all have some information for me I would appreciate it. Thanks for the information. Roger

Roger, that cam should idle down to around 1000 rpm fairly easy. Years ago a friend of mine ran a budget built 350 with 10-1 compression, old camel hump heads, and that cam with a stock converter and 2.73 gears- it was a mismatched combination for sure but it was definately drivable and idled down to 900ish no problem. Your converter will work good with lower gears and 3.73 would probably be your best bet and for highway use. Run a transmission cooler.
The high winding you noticed with rolling from a stop up a hill is just the flash of the torque converter under the extra strain of the hill and the weak gearing-it'll be less strain with lower gears.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Roger, that cam should idle down to around 1000 rpm fairly easy. Years ago a friend of mine ran a budget built 350 with 10-1 compression, old camel hump heads, and that cam with a stock converter and 2.73 gears- it was a mismatched combination for sure but it was definately drivable and idled down to 900ish no problem. Your converter will work good with lower gears and 3.73 would probably be your best bet and for highway use. Run a transmission cooler.
The high winding you noticed with rolling from a stop up a hill is just the flash of the torque converter under the extra strain of the hill and the weak gearing-it'll be less strain with lower gears.
Baddbod, I didn't mention that I do have the old camel hump heads with 2.02 valves and a transmission cooler. I sure I am probably wrong about the idle. It does sound fairly high. Sounds good though. But, I do want the car to run the way it should. Thanks again Roger.
 

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Baddbod, I didn't mention that I do have the old camel hump heads with 2.02 valves and a transmission cooler. I sure I am probably wrong about the idle. It does sound fairly high. Sounds good though. But, I do want the car to run the way it should. Thanks again Roger.
That converter should work fine with that cam, get the rear gears done and a tach and you should have plenty of fun! I would go with the 3:73 gears if it was me!!:yes:
 
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