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Discussion Starter #1
yet another one. here's what I got:

350/350, 9:1, Crane blue racer WG1170, grind 962H, intake at cam 300, @ valve 450 - exhaust @ cam 306, @valve 460 (essentially, is my cam lift 450?). intake duration 272, exhaust duration 288, cam timing: @.050 intake opens (3) atdc closed 47 abdc, max lift 115 atdc duration 224. obviously I'm no cam expert,my machinist picked this out. 1.5 rockers, world products 1.94 heads, turbo 350 tran with shift kit, etc. HEI, will prolly get a holley vac secondary 750, rpm dual plane intake, currently has 4.10 gears but don't worry, I plan to drop them down as a project later on. I was thinking 2200 stall or so hi perf gm or dayco converter. I'm just cruising around.

also, I'm looking at about 10 qts. +/- fluid total, right?
 

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Ati....

These guys have great products....call them and discuss your application and they will dial you in. There are lots of "cheap" converters out there...don't get fooled, you get what you pay for. This isn't a part of the car you want to cut corners on....wilma

http://www.atiracing.com/products/products.htm
 

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I agree that ATI if the converter company I would turn to first. That is who I have used in the past.

Since your combination is so mild, you may feel the ATI is excessive- which I might agree with. Speak to them and see what they say. They do offer some great advice too!
 

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Try redneck performance for a street manor car, I would think you need around a 2800 or so. I run a 4000 stall from redneck at it works flawlesly!:yes:
 

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Stay away from the Dayco. They use PM (powdered metal) stators and they have a tendency to shatter!! Ask me how I know.:rolleyes:

There's several different GOOD converter companies out there. For that mild of an application you really don't need a super high dollar converter but keep in mind the better (usually more expensive) converters will "Slip" less with the same stall and thus make less heat. I'd look for something in the 10" 2500-2800 range. Any less is almost pointless. Even with that amount of stall, under normal driving conditions you will hardly be able to tell you have a higher stall converter. The only time you should see the higher stall is when it's under a heavy load.:yes:

Get the biggest tranny cooler you can afford.:yes: The cooler you can make the tranny run, the longer it will last.

As for brands:
Ultimate converter concepts
ATI
Continental
Precision Industries
PTC
Yank

And I'm sure I'm leaving a few out that are worthy to be on the list of awesome converters.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
great info. thanks. Local tranny shop uses dayco but I'll pass on that, thank you D-man. He quoted $250 for a 2,400 stall remanufactured unit. He said their performance line has brazed fins and uses bearings, whatever that means. I definitely won't be skimping on this, will call ATI and reach out to the others. Yes, maybe bump up the stall just a bit. thanks.

Once the car is all running and kind of done, I have future plans to go with possibly 3.55's in the rear.

Why consider 10" instead of standard 11" ?? weight?
 

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The smaller diameter converters generally have a little better torque multiplication and generate less heat. IE: More efficient. A 9 1/2" 2800 would be SWEET but would probably cost a bit more and would be considered by a lot of people to be overkill for your application.

FYI. My favorite converter company is UCC Ultimate Converter Concepts.
http://www.ultimateconverter.com/contactus.aspx

Lenny is the guy who handles ALL of the tech stuff AND builds the converters so there's NO "middle-men" to screw things up!! And of course all of his converters come with one free stall adjustment (if you need it).
 

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There is a supplier to trans shops called RPM. They mostly are wholesale suppliers, they don't sell to the public. I used one of their converters called the "GM-6" supposedly for a 70 chevelle SS LS-6. Its like a 12" converter but stalls to around 2,000-2,400- depending on your engines torque. That converter is great for street cruisers and trucks. Low cost too!!!! I can get them out here for less then $100. I had one in my 70 nova and used it in my 76 GMC truck. Worked excellent, especially in the truck!!!
 

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If your looking for a street convertor anything around 2000-2500 you wont feel much,i had good luck driving around with a 10" tci street fighter for years, even drove it to work everyday and it only flash stall to 2500 but was rated at 3000, I always left the light at the strip at 1500 or id blow the tires off, but once you start stalling 2500+ you wont feel the shiftkit anymore so id say try a tight 10", if you dont want anything fancy or costly check out a JEGS convertor.
 

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I just thought of something. I have a custom built 10" 3000 stall converter in my car that I am about to take out in favor of a 4800 stall ATI that is sitting here next to me. I paid around 500 for this converter and it has about 300 miles put on it in the last 6 years. If you want it it is yours for $250 shipped to your door. :yes:
 

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I have a street car and not much HP. I just wanted a steetable unit so I got a 700r4 and a lock up converter. Its a B&M holeshot 2400. Prolly not much better than stock but Im not really looking for much more than that anyway. And the ability to lock the converter up on the freeway was interesting. And I got a variable lock-up unit so I can change the rpm where it locks up or turn it off. Living in So Cal Ill do more freeway miles than anything :( OK!!! LOL Im sounding like yer grandma driving a nova by now huh?? I may be :)
JR
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ready to finally grab a convertor so I can hopefully drop in the motor and trans next weekend. :yes: My machinst and another local mechanic both say that for my proposed use of just cruising around and not racing, I should stick with a stock type converter. I have heard a few bad reports about Daaco, well actually just one on here, though a local trans guy I know says thats all he uses, with good success.

Both of these guys are recommending the Daaco B-3 12" 1,250 stall or if possible, the B3-H? which is 1,750 stall and 13", usually used for a turbo 400. (I have a 350 trans). That model would depend if my bell will accept the 13".

Any final thoughts before I bite the bullet? I think I'd be happy getting the car rolling smoothly from a stop light, no need to rev up the motor. thanks.
 

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With that small of a stall, You're going to fight with the idle in gear and it's gonna be an absolute slug off the line.:yes:

Driveability and performance are both gonna suffer. Anything under 2500 is just a waste of money in my book.

Get a decent tranny cooler and you won't have to worry about heat.

Trust me......ANYTHING is better than a Dayco reman unit!!!
 

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I put a Redneck 2400 RPM stall in my '63 two years ago and have no complaints whatsoever. I bought it off of Ebay and if I remember right it was under $150
 

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With that small of a stall, You're going to fight with the idle in gear and it's gonna be an absolute slug off the line.:yes:

Driveability and performance are both gonna suffer. Anything under 2500 is just a waste of money in my book.

Get a decent tranny cooler and you won't have to worry about heat.

Trust me......ANYTHING is better than a Dayco reman unit!!!
X2!! Anything less then 2500 is just a plain waist of money! You will not need to rev up your car to get it moving it justs helps keep you in the power curve when you want it. I have a 4000 stall from Redneck and my car will drive away from a stoplight when I take my foot off the brake! Look into the Redneck stall, for the price you can,t beat it!!!!!!!:yes:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The 2,400 stall holeshot I had a lead on got sold. My local trans shop has a 1,750 stall, 13" converter for a 400 that he says can be used as a heavy duty upgrade to the standard 350 converter. (He is going to measure my bell and verify it will fit)

With all due respect to the guys talking about needing more stall, keep in mind...this is a driver, not for racing. I really see no need for more stall other than what it needs to function in a normal manner. Tons of vehicles with small blocks used this stall and even lower so I'm still not convinced I need anything too high. With this cam, I should idle around 1,000.

I hope this thread is not coming off like you guys keep telling me I need higher stall and I am being stubborn and not listening. I am simply crossing every "t" and dotting all my "i's" before making a decision. thanks
 

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If your car is going to idle at 1000 rpm that stock converter will not work for you! It will pull your idle down too far causing you to adjust the idle higher in gear and making it go into gear hard. Are you worried that a bigger converter is goingto cause some sort of negative efect on the driveabilty of the car? Stock or modified I would not run less then a 2500 stall period on any small block I ever build!
 

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I have to agree with the others. Anything less than 2500 stall and I believe you'll be disappointed. I had this discussion with a friend a month or so ago as he was putting his BB Chevelle (quite a bit heavier than the Nova) back together, he decided he had enough gear and enough torque and would be fine with a 2K stall. Last week he took the TH400 back out and put a 3K in and is happy as a clam. He says it felt like he cut an anchor loose.
 
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