[SMO'KUM63]

I have a dumb question that I can't find the answer to online. What damage can running a stock TC with a bigger cam (.510/.510 221/235 108 lsa) cause? I have found answers that it will not obviously run right or jerk, but not the other. Which leads to the second part of my question:

I just picked up a used stock 700r4 that I want to use just to get the car moving. Since funds are very limited and if running the stock TC will be detrimental, I wanted to buy the right TC which will probably be a 2400 stall to run on this tranny until I buy the level II at BTOD'$. So my second question is will that same TC be ok to reuse? The reason I ask is because I'm under the impression that the residual oil left in the TC from the old tranny can harm the new one. I would hate to throw away $1600 bucks I currently don't have.

So I'm hoping someone will say it's ok to run the stock TC (I don't know the stall but I'm guessing 1100-1800).

thanks for the help

 

[Deeznuts]

Run it, you will be good to go. It will just be lazy at lower rpm.

 

[Pragmatist]

208/221 [email protected] Thousands
474/510 Max lift on 112 Lobe centers
This is my cam. Not only do I run a stock converter but also 3.08 rear gears. Everyone said I would have problems. They were right. I can't seem to keep from boiling the tires everywhere I go.:devil:

 

[sbc1320]

208/221 [email protected] Thousands
474/510 Max lift on 112 Lobe centers
This is my cam. Not only do I run a stock converter but also 3.08 rear gears. Everyone said I would have problems. They were right. I can't seem to keep from boiling the tires everywhere I go.:devil:

Doesn't look like enough duration to need an aftermarket converter. Torque converter doesn't see lift.

I could boil the tires with my 4000 converter and 3.08 gear(lol). I soon changed to 4.11's though after a month or so of playing.

 

[drm101]

Sometimes a stock stall speed is the way to go. If you have a heavy car, and the converter was from a lightweight vehicle originally (and it was properly designed and spec'd), it acts like a higher stall converter. I agree with the above comments that worst case is your engine won't spend it's time at an RPM that it's designed for. A good stock converter is often better than an economy aftermarket converter.
On the other hand, a converter properly spec'd to suit your engine would likely make you engine and trans work more efficiently.
You certainly won't damage anything unless your making so much power the converter slips significantly and results in more heat than your trans and cooler can dissipate.

 

[drm101]

....and another thing! If you provide all cam specs, engine size, comp ratio, exhaust details, rear gear ratio, tire sizes, intake, carb, etc., I am sure someone on this site will be able to tell you very specifically what to expect.

 

[SMO'KUM63]

Ok cool. So it appears I’m not in too bad of a situation. I will run with the stock TC so long as the car drives. If the other specs can provide more info they are:

327 with maybe 9.5:1
Performer RPM air gap
600 Eddie. I don’t know whats my vacuum at the intake
26” tall tire
3.08 but will change to 3.73 later on.
21/2 over the diff

I thought the TC was mainly matched up to the cam

Thanks for the replies fellas

 

[6T4LONGROOF]

You may have a little trouble idling in gear and a little weak down low but with the 3.06 1st gear you'll probably still be able to light the tires but nothing major

 

[bracketchev70]

You may have to have it idle at about 1000 in neutral to keep 850-900 in gear. Its a decent cam in a little motor with no rear gear. I used a 230/230 @.050 cam with a stock converter but in a 406. It won't be optimal but it won't physically "hurt" anything.

 

[sbc1320]

You may have to have it idle at about 1000 in neutral to keep 850-900 in gear. Its a decent cam in a little motor with no rear gear. I used a 230/230 @.050 cam with a stock converter but in a 406. It won't be optimal but it won't physically "hurt" anything.

Ran that cam many times in a 4 speed and usually converted to 4 speed if they were autos back in the day. These days I like to run an auto with a good converter(lol). That 230 @.050"(110 LSA) was the break point and could use that higher stall. Even the 228* . I've put the .447 and either 224* or 226* in a little Nova I built the wife with powerglide and factory converter. She drove that car for 6 years before I sold it.

 

[SMO'KUM63]

If I do decide to get a new TC what stall would you all reccomend, considering I’ll be changing to 3.73’s in the future?

 

[g2072]

I have a 383 ,700r4 with 3.55 rear gears and I'm using the FTI street Brawler converter. It's not expensive and works good. My car probably won't ever see a track. It is street driven but performs, is well mannered and actually gets good fuel mileage (16mpg). I've been very satisfied with the FTI.

 

[6T4LONGROOF]

If I do decide to get a new TC what stall would you all reccomend, considering I’ll be changing to 3.73’s in the future?

Maybe a 2.500 stall, get a good external cooler and a deep trans pan if you have the ground clearance

 

[Repointer1]

Sounds like fine suggestions. Unless you are drag racing it hard or running nitrous might be overthinking it a bit. I bought a used Summit brand 3200 off a member here a while back and it has worked just fine in my car. Drives good on the street and foot brakes right around 3000 at the track. Stall might vary a little from advertised RPM depending on your set-up. I've read some good things about the FTI converters.

 

[SMO'KUM63]

Sounds like fine suggestions. Unless you are drag racing it hard or running nitrous might be overthinking it a bit. I bought a used Summit brand 3200 off a member here a while back and it has worked just fine in my car. Drives good on the street and foot brakes right around 3000 at the track. Stall might vary a little from advertised RPM depending on your set-up. I've read some good things about the FTI converters.

Yeah, sounds like I am overthinking this. I just wawnted to confirm using the stock TC wasn't going to blow anything up. It will not see any track time, but it is my intention to eventually build the tranny up to par with the engine. I'm going to have to take it easy on this unit I just picked up as I don't know the true condition of it, but as long as it can get the car moving.

$300 isn't bad for that FTI Street Brawler TC, so I might be searching deep in my pockets to pick one up, but no one has chimed in on what's the rule of thumb for re-using a used converter on a fresh build. I'm sure just removing any old oil but what about any other type of residuals like shavings or anything of that nature? Am I over thinking this too?

Thanks

 

[Repointer1]

I'm always overthinking or worrying about stuff. Really sucks when the OCD won't let up.

You stated you picked up a used trans and wanted to use the stock converter which is fine. Looks like you are talking about rebuilding the trans and getting a new converter sometime down the road. Not sure what you mean by a used converter on a new build (Transmission?). If you mean buying a converter to run with the used trans for now then swapping it when you get the trans rebuilt for $1600, I'd just save a little more, wait on the new converter, and do them together.

I did re-use my converter after my t350 was rebuilt. Just drained all the fluid, put in fresh and ran it. Works fine but I knew the history of it.

 

[SMO'KUM63]

Kind’a what I’m talking about. You guys have convinced me to use the stock TC for now until I can afford a new level II from Bow tie Overdrives and get a new 2500 TC at that time like you stated Repointer. I don’t have a core to take in when I get my new tranny so this supposedly “running” used piece I picked up for $250 I hope will work until then and cover the core charge.