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Discussion Starter #1
Just completed a full power disc brake swap and posi on my 72 Nova. Had the car out a day and blew the transmission for the 3rd time.

I have a TH350 from Jasper. They will be picking it up soon to rebuild it and send it back once again. The only conclusion I have been able to come up with is that maybe my shifter is causing my transmission to fail. The last time was caused by a second gear frag. Could the shifter be causing it to not go into gear fully? I pulled it out and it looks fine to me. I was planning on buying a new shifter just to cover my *** if this were to happen again. Does anyone have a suggestion on a good quality, decently priced shifter?

With the trans out I was thinking about upgrading my torque converter. Right now I have a stock torque converter.

Also, I am going to have a gear put in it this winter. Right now it is a 308. I was thinking maybe a 373 or 410. The car has been getting from 50-100 miles of use in the summer due to being a college student and trying to work out all the kinks. The car sees very little highway use at all.

I am running a holley 750, 383, stock torque converter, TH 350, 308 posi, with 27 in diameter tires.

Suggestions on a torque converter and gear?
 

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First off.....I've never heard of a shifter causing a catastrophic tranny failure.:no: Maybe inconsistent shifts but not any hard parts.

Sounds to me more like an incompetent builder!!

As for the converter, we really need to know more about the engine combination (cam, heads and compression especially) to even begin to have the slightest clue as to what converter you need.:yes:

Gear selection is based more on your taste unless you are looking for the best possible E.T... Then you typically want whatever gear will have you right at redline going through the traps. Make a pass with the gear you have now and it's just a simple matter of a little math to figure it out.:yes:
Most people on the street seem to prefer a 3.42, 3.73 or 4.10 depending on their tire size and the amount of highway driving and driving style.
 

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I've never heard of a shifter causing a catastrophic tranny failure
I don't know about a complete failure, but if the lever isn't clicking all the way into the detent it can cause some trouble down the road. I had a frayed cable that wasn't allowing mine to move freely between shifts, and it would flare up and do some strange things...especially at 7500 RPM.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for spreading the knowledge to a young one trying to learn.

This is part of the build sheet I received ---

Block - .060 Over
Seasoned - 4-Bolt Main, 2Pce Rear Main, Flat Tappet Cam

Heads - Hi-Flo© - Stock Cast
Ported - Stock Cast Heads and Intake, 1.94 Intake, 1.50 Exhaust

Crankshaft
Scat 9000 Series Cast

Pistons
Sealed Power Flat Top, Hypereutectic, Coated

Rings
Hastings - Moly

Rods
Stock Reconditioned, Shot Peened, Caps Cut, Resized

Bearings
King - Performance

Cam
Melling - MTC-1 204-214 @ 50, ADV Dur. 278-288, .420-.443 Lift, 107-117 C/L

Push Rods
Elgin

Rockers
Elgin

Timing
Melling, 3 Pce.

Intake Manifold
Professional Products - Typhoon, Duel Plane Performance


Does not have the compression on it. Believe I have it written down somewhere though.


Thanks again
 

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Since they are rebuilding the trans again why dont you have them put a 2.75 first gear in it to launch faster and leave the 3.08 alone for cruising around, also since your cam is small and engine is more torque than HP keep the stock convertor, if you change gears, id go with a 3.55, 3.73/4.10 is horrible after a while without a OD trans. JMO.
 

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Since it is allready apart you might as well put atleast a 2500 stall in it. You will not even notice the difference while cruising but it will be noticed when you put your foot to the floor!:yes: You can pick up a ******* converter on ebay for around $175.00.
 

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with a cam

that small ,, i don't think i'd put more than a 355 gear in it or you might find a torque converter is all it needs to wake it up.

this is how i check the alignment of a shifter to the transmission

put the shifter in 1st gear , remove cotter pin from shifter cable attachment , see how easy it will slip in and out of the lever on the transmission. If the lever moves either way after the cable is unhooked , the cable needs adjusted or the shifter is worn out maybe.

Go through each gear and make sure there is no binding. The attachment of the shifter cable to the lever on the transmission should slip in and out of the hole on the lever in each gear in its new position. Takes a small amount of time , but its worth it. If its good then put the cotter pin back in.

I have hardly ever heard of a satisfied customer of any Jasper product. One shop i worked at bought a Jasper engine , they didn't put rings on the pistons. The next one drank as much oil after 3 monthes of use as the original engine.
 
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