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Discussion Starter #1
So instead of continue to save $$$ for a 383 and waiting another 2 years Ive decided to put in a top end kit from summit. SO here is my question what would be a better top end kit for a 350, there are 2 kits I been looking at and I Dont know what the #'s mean.
Kit
1) Summit Racing® Top End Engine Kits for Small Chevy SME-K-355-400
Combo, Aluminum, Cylinder Heads, Manifold, Cam/Lifters 442/465 Gaskets, Bolts, SB Chevy

2)Summit Racing® Top End Engine Kits for Small Chevy SME-K-375-400
Combo, Aluminum, Cylinder Heads, Manifold, Cam/Lifters 465/488, Gaskets, Bolts, SB Chevy.

my engine is tired I have a four bolt main, its a 76 block from a truck.
What does the cam/lifters numbers mean and witch would work better with my block? Im leaning more towards the the second kit seeing that I have a Holley 750 double pumper.
 

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Rebuild the tired bottom end, don't just put a new top end on it. If I had to choose between the two you listed it'd be the 2nd one. 3.73 gears and a 3000 converter.
 

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If the bottom end is tired you just wasted your money buying a top end kit. At the very least re-ring and put new bearings in it. If the bores ect look good ball hone it and do the cheapie rebuild and it should run 30k more before it needs new pistions ect.Even better yet watch c-list I've seen some good deals on engines that are ready to go.If you choose that plan make sure the pan is off so you can get a decent ideal whats going on in there.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well the engine was rebuilt 5 years ago, but it was driven by the previous owner on a daily basis for a year before I bought the car, The car been parked except once a month when I pull it out of the garage to clean the garage out.
The reason I said its tired is that the heads on there are the garbage smog restricted heads! Mechanic checked the compression and said it was ok but the top end needs to go I wanted more power!
 

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Well if thats the case, I would get some decent heads and go from there.What casting number heads are on there now? 882 castings are considered junk for about any application. Look and see what you have a bigger cam wont help on a flow restricted head anyway.
 

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Just my :2cents: I would recheck the compression and cylinder leakage before I did anything to the top end. If you're motor has less an 8.5-1 compression ratio the top end kit will only give minimal power increase. Was the motor bored when it was rebuilt? If so you can can get a good stroker 383 crank,rods and pistons for a resonable price long as you're going to stay around the 500 HP range. PM big AL for some part pricing. RICK
 

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Just my :2cents: I would recheck the compression and cylinder leakage before I did anything to the top end. If you're motor has less an 8.5-1 compression ratio the top end kit will only give minimal power increase. Was the motor bored when it was rebuilt? If so you can can get a good stroker 383 crank,rods and pistons for a resonable price long as you're going to stay around the 500 HP range. PM big AL for some part pricing. RICK
I can't advertise for the company.

As a Steves's member

Yes, call me and I will beat that kit with better quality parts and we can pick any Herbert flat tappet cam we want.

PM me if ya wish.

Thanks
Al
 

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Good point stated on the lower compression it prob has being around 76 and prob same crappy 882 heads so make sure the chamber size on the new heads you choose is smaller than the 76cc of the 882 heads so as to bring compression up a 63cc chamber size would be a good choice. .:D
 

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V0801TYY
V=Flint
08=August
01= 1st
TYY=1975 C20 truck 350 4 barl 165hp


3970010= 50/50 chance of 4 bolt main
 

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Sorry to say but with those HP numbers you have probably the worst piston,rod and cylinder head combination chevy ever produced. Do a cylinder leakage test first any thing below about 12% not great but ok the lower the leakage the better! The compression ratio in that motor is at best about 7.5x1 8.0x1 When you buy the top end kit also buy the .015 thick cylinder headgaskets this will raise the comp ratio to about 8.5 to 9.0 with the 64 cc heads. Pocket port the heads and have the valves back cut this should give you approx. 300 hp. With this piston rod combo you will not be able rev this motor much over 5,000 rpms as you could break a rod or piston.
 

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I think some are being a little over "HYPED" about the engine you have.

The engine you have has a semi dish, 4 valve re-leaf piston 350 standard, pressed pin, the piston will have a 9.1:1 compression ratio with 64cc head chamber volume. The stock cast assembly will do fine to 5500-6000 rpm.

With head and cam change you will have a 300-350hp engine easy. Double what you have now. You will also double your torque.

This will also be a very reliable engine combination.

I have done several engine like this and is one of the top sellers where I work.

Don't have any illusions of 500hp, it's not going happen. :no::no:

NOTE: Being a truck engine, you have a small chance of having a steel crank and 50/50 4 bolt main. This is not needed, but a bonus.

If the engine you have now is not using oil smoking, knocking, and has a good consistent compression check. A top end kit will do great. (if using oil, smoking, this could be valve guide problem with the heads)

The engine is a air pump! The more air it cam pump, the more HP it can make.

IMHO
Al
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
:yes:
I think some are being a little over "HYPED" about the engine you have.

The engine you have has a semi dish, 4 valve re-leaf piston 350 standard, pressed pin, the piston will have a 9.1:1 compression ratio with 64cc head chamber volume. The stock cast assembly will do fine to 5500-6000 rpm.

With head and cam change you will have a 300-350hp engine easy. Double what you have now. You will also double your torque.

This will also be a very reliable engine combination.

I have done several engine like this and is one of the top sellers where I work.

Don't have any illusions of 500hp, it's not going happen. :no::no:

NOTE: Being a truck engine, you have a small chance of having a steel crank and 50/50 4 bolt main. This is not needed, but a bonus.

If the engine you have now is not using oil smoking, knocking, and has a good consistent compression check. A top end kit will do great. (if using oil, smoking, this could be valve guide problem with the heads)

The engine is a air pump! The more air it cam pump, the more HP it can make.

IMHO
Al
See thats what Im talking about:D, I dont wanna buy a 5K engine, Not now anyway. Big Al I will be calling you tomorrow so we can talk!:yes: No noises, no smoking issues, not loosing oil, nothing weird, engine runs perfect!
 

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Al if you are referring to me as being over HYPED I think I am being causious. I have been a flat rate mechanic for over 40 years now and have the mind set of spending more time to the job right the first time because as you well know we don't get paid twice when it's not done right the first time. As for on a budgets build I really want to see him build this motor as there are not many things in life as gratifying as building an engine and seeing it run. This will be a good motor as long as it is not abused! The chances of over revving this motor especially with a stick shift are very good which could cause an issue with the cast pistions and stock rods this is the point I was trying make. If you are going yo be able to save him a few dollars on his parts why not go ahead and put some some better quality rods and pistons and make it a REALLY good motor instead of just a good motor. RICK
 
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