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What a transformation in such a short time! Great job and your ride is BITCHIN!!!:yes:
 

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That is beautiful! Outstanding workmanship!

Your fanning the flames of MY automotive dream!:eek::yes:
 

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Looks GREAT Tom! Inspired me, I have been toying with the idea of putting an LS1 in my car, I am one step closer now, gathering my list of parts and information. Your info has given me a HUGE leap forward.
 

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Yea Tom's ride look's wonderful. But U know what guy's(This is for the ones who want to ride in his car)It rides even better than it look's. Hey Veno.......................:p:p:p:poke::stir::stir: NA NA NA NAAAA NA!
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Thanks for the compliments guys, it has turned out to be better than I ever anticipated or expected......:yes:

Over the next couple of weeks, I am going to start a new thread with an update to the parts list with some other things I have found, fuel tanks, engine mounts, HEADERS (hopefully).....I'll try to detail websites and contact info. This will just pertain to 1st, 2nd and 3rd gen Novas only. Don't have the time or inclination to go into the plethora of other swaps folks are doing, that's what the other sites are for, this will just focus on Novas.....

As I said before, anyone thinking about doing this swap should do it.....you will have a perpetual smile.....:D

T,
 

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Yea Tom's ride look's wonderful. But U know what guy's(This is for the ones who want to ride in his car)It rides even better than it look's. Hey Veno.......................:p:p:p:poke::stir::stir: NA NA NA NAAAA NA!
Hey Robert!.... yeah would seem ya have one-up-man-ship in that category:rolleyes::D

still a fine looking and well detailed ride tom... no matter what Robert said!:eek:
:poke::poke:
:rotfl::rotfl:
 

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Tom - that car is AWESOME! It was really nice when I saw it - and now it's INCREDIBLE :yes::yes::yes:
That's what I would really like to have - a Nova that you can actually drive anywhere you want without worrying about breaking parts or the bank with the fuel bill. Wish you lived near me and I had the $ - you could do mine....:yes::yes::yes:
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Hey Robert!.... yeah would seem ya have one-up-man-ship in that category:rolleyes::D

still a fine looking and well detailed ride tom... no matter what Robert said!:eek:
:poke::poke:
:rotfl::rotfl:
He kept asking "where's the clutch" .......

Tom - that car is AWESOME! It was really nice when I saw it - and now it's INCREDIBLE :yes::yes::yes:
That's what I would really like to have - a Nova that you can actually drive anywhere you want without worrying about breaking parts or the bank with the fuel bill. Wish you lived near me and I had the $ - you could do mine....:yes::yes::yes:
Don't you dare touch your Nova, it's too cherry to mod. Get another one and we can walk through it, you'd be surprised how easy it is.

Way to go Tom that thing is over the top for sure. Good call on the seats too, I really like that.:yes:
The seats are sweet, total difference. Look out power tour. So when you doing one.....:devil: I saw you inquiring about Darby's car on the classifieds. If I had the money, that car would be headed to Texas right now......perfect candidate for a swap....:D

T,
 

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Discussion Starter #32 (Edited)
LSx Swap Narrative - (Long, Multi Part)

The narrative below is a compilation of thoughts, ideas and methodology I used to do my swap for a 2nd Gen Nova. This should be the same for a 1st gen. as well. I’m not and expert this is just what worked for me on my swap, and was put together at the request of some members here on Steve’s. Hopefully this will add some insight into the mechanics and execution of your swap, and help clear up a few gray areas. There are many talented individuals on here that have done these swaps, so this is just to add to that knowledge base.
Please feel free to comment, and I would hope that the guys that have done these would add to this thread with their own methods, technical advice and nuances that they encountered in their swaps. I’ll be adding to this as I remember things, but this is about 90% complete relating to what I encountered. It does not cover the clip installation, and will not compare clips but it should work for just about all aftermarket clips. This is open source, feel free to copy paste and save as needed. This will be broken into parts because it is long and detailed. The word document is attached in its entirety in this first post.

Disclaimer:
I am in no way affiliated with any of the vendor’s listed below, and received no discounts or special pricing for mentioning them. They were just the quickest, easiest way to get the swap done with as little down time as possible for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Fuel System, Tanks etc.

There are several approaches to this. You can use an external inline fuel pump and inline filter, the combination corvette filter/regulator; add a sump to an existing tank, or even a fuel cell. The two tanks listed below have the pumps in the tank (read quietest), and the correct sender for the year model. The pump should be capable of at least 50 to 60 psi, depending on application, and at least 225lph (59.2gph) and up for performance applications. It takes approximately 54-58 psi to operate the Corvette filter/regulator. This is what makes it so good, it is internally regulated. Walbro is a good fuel pump, and reasonably priced. Aero motive is best, but pricey. The fuel fittings can be had in various sizes and combinations, but 3/8” provides sufficient fuel flow, and works for most street applications. Don’t worry too much; this is about the same as plumbing your small block for an electric system, no real tricks here, just the return line routing.

Hoses, clamps and fuel line for fuel injection systems can be purchased through local auto parts, the part numbers listed below are for – AN fittings, others will vary based on application. After market fuel rails are available through Aeromotive, Fast, or other suppliers. Stock rails work well, but may need to be changed for hi horsepower applications. Check your application, as injector types vary, and all are not interchangeable. Fuel pump sizes and fuel rail/injector sizes are kin to whether you need a 650 Holley or a 950, based on horsepower output and fuel needs.

The fuel line return neck listed below can be cut into just about any filler neck, or you can fabricate your own, when using a stock fuel tank. In most cases you don’t need a return line from the front of the engine. In high horsepower applications, guys are putting the pressure regulator up front, and running a return line from the regulator back to the tank. Either way will work, and it’s a matter of personal preference I suppose, but for most street applications, the Corvette piece does the trick. Other than that, plumbing up the fuel system is pretty straight forward. I strongly recommend you use good clamps, hoses and associated parts here, as this is the most critical, and is the biggest source of a fire hazard. Remember, your system will be pressured up to around 60psi.

Rick’s Hot Rods, www.rickstanks.com , Jegs part #781-3031,
Chevy2only, www.parts123.com , part # 23001-2 for 1st and 2nd gen. part #12326-2 for 3rd gen

Fuel filter/regulator, Wix, 33737, 99-03, Corvette
Regulator/Filter Fittings, Russell, 640850, 3/8" to -6AN inverted flare (2 ea.) Push on for one end of hard line 640940 below, and discharge side of filter/regulator to fuel rails.
Regulator/Filter Fittings, Russell, 640860, 5/16" to -6AN inverted flare return line (1 ea.) Push on for return line to tank.
Regulator/Filter Fitting, Russell, 640940, 3/8” to -6AN hard line adapter to filter. (1 ea.) Push on pipe for tank side of filter/regulator (supply side)
Fuel Neck return line, Jegs part # 65385 Moroso, fits inline on fuel filler neck for fuel return with external pump, stock tank.
 

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Discussion Starter #34 (Edited)
Engine, Electrical

The ECM or Engine Control Module has several configurations, as stated before, 97 and 98 are proprietary, and will not interchange with 99 and up. For example, a 99 ECM has the pin connector locations changed as opposed to a 98. You can re pin it if you like. There are about 80 pins on each of the two connectors, with around 20 needing to be changed from one connector to the other. Also, drive by wire, drive by cable (throttle), manual and automatic transmissions, all require a different set of parameters and conditions, so it’s best to try to keep parts matched together for a specific year. It can be done other ways; and it can get very complicated quickly, best to keep it simple and try to keep parts matched from the donor car if at all possible. If you notice on a “drive by wire system”, which is an electrically controlled servo motor for the throttle body, most vendors sell the gas pedal to go with the engine, as the electronic assemblies match each other, so they can “talk” effectively through the ECM. Drive by cable is no problem, just about anything goes there, as they are connected by a physical throttle cable. Just watch mixing and matching throttle bodies, again, they are different, for example an LS1 as opposed to LS2 intakes, with 3 and 4 mounting screws, respectively.
There are several companies that can sell you ECM’s and harnesses, or re flash your existing ECM, and rebuild your factory harness. The most important thing here is good grounding. The subject has been explored extensively, and is the single largest contributing factor in troubleshooting problems with your system. Look for a harness that has built in fuse block, fuel pump relay etc. this will save you time in wiring, has very few connections, and is easy. Be aware that other vendors have cheaper harnesses. Read the fine print, they usually charge extra for all these items and in the end the cost is a wash to buy it already done. But then some companies are way over the top, and very proud of their products. Shop around. Most all vendors label their harnesses very well. The vendors listed below were the most cost effective I could find at the time, again, search around, as prices are dropping each day. I chose to buy these parts and pieces readymade, so I could just plug them in and go, instead of having to send them out to get programmed, modified or rebuilt. They came straight to my door, already done. For example, I used a 2002 ECM and harness, which fit the 98 LS1 injector connectors. It had wires nicely labeled for the converter lock up, tachometer, electric speedometer, and even a wire to the shifter so the ECM can raise the idle when put into gear, and a wire to also raise the idle, and bring on all fans when you turn on your A/C, pretty cool. They also provided a sheet to tell you why this needed to be done, the voltage required, +12 or -12, and a list of engine codes and procedures for first fire, such as crank learn, if needed.

A few other things I had to do was change the temperature sensor in the drivers head from 2 wire (98) to a three wire (02) to match the harness, to tell the ECM what the motor temp is to operate everything. The oil pan level sensor was not used. The MAF, MAP, and anti knock sensors were the same and just plugged right in. I had to buy an IATS, (intake air temp. sensor), as 98 didn’t have one. Just ask for the correct year/harness application, same with the water temp sensor, by application. The oil pressure gauge was tapped at the oil filter side to use an aftermarket gauge, into a little plate already bolted to the side of the block. All the rest of the sensors came with the correct connectors on the harness, and plugged right in, easy as it could possibly be.

Techrods – email; [email protected] new harnesses, built to your specifications with aux leads you require, see eBay under Techrods for an example of their work. They detail very nicely what their harness will and will not include, and what you can add, and how much it costs for the modifications. Has extra 5 feet of pigtail to reach just about anywhere. He will build your harness to fit your ECM requirements. Comes with many extras that others charge for, fuel pump relay, 4 circuit fuse box etc. Contact Shane.
Speartech – www.speartech.com your one stop shop for harness rewiring, new harnesses, ECM re flash, tunes etc. a whole gamut of fuel injection applications, parts, supplies and services. Contact John.
Spare ECM - deals with nothing but ECM’s of all flavors. Can provide stock ECM’s or Hot Rod re flashed ECM’s to your door, can also modify your existing unit, ridiculously low pricing for those wanting a new/modified/backup ECM. See his eBay store for a list of how your ECM can be set up. He will program your ECM to match your harness just like the harness guy. Read them both figure what you want to turn off and on, and then let them know. For example he can preprogram your set points to bring your fans off and on, turn off VATS, disable transmission torque management, etc. Contact Rodney.
Street and Performance – www.hotrodlane.cc another one stop shop for all your swap needs. Lotsa bling in here, grab your wallet. Their online catalogue is kind of hard to navigate, and all the LS stuff really starts on page 80, but if you dig in, they have some reasonably priced stuff. They offer the same services as Speartech from A to Z. They have the engine conversion mounts for the Gen 1 and 2’s that work perfectly. Headers and motor mount adapters came from here also.
 

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Discussion Starter #35 (Edited)
Fans and Cooling

You can use stock fans from Camaro, Firebird or Corvette, based on your radiator size, just trim the fan shroud to fit and attach, or use aftermarket fan(s)/shroud combo. These fans are low amperage, and good CFM for the swap, plus readily available to find replacement parts, and cheap, usually around 100 bucks for the twin setup. The ECM can be set to control fan off and on points, for two fans separately, so no need for a separate controller. I used two 40 amp 12 volt relays, and the signal from the ECM (-12v) brings them off and on at a predetermined set point of my liking. The wires can be brought out by the harness builder/modifier, and labeled accordingly. The ECM guy will preprogram the set points when you buy your ECM. You can also just run fans stand alone through many different aftermarket controllers. Radiators can be single pass, or dual pass based on application and preference, can be stock or aftermarket.
Radiator hoses can be pieced together using adapters, and using a coat hanger, or wire, shaped to the routing you need. Each application will be different, and up to the owner’s discretion. The part numbers listed work for a Gen 1 and 2 stock clips as well as aftermarket clips, using a down flow stock replacement aluminum radiator, pass side lower suction, driver’s side discharge.
The steam return line is a much debated item, which I won’t do here, but I connected mine. You can either tap the top of the water pump, or buy an inline splice to tie this in. I chose the latter, as I didn’t want to have to tap a water pump, when/if I changed one, and they may or may not honor a core charge either with a hole in the top of the pump. Jegs has a neat little adapter, as well as Jagsthatrun. People have run these to their heater hoses, just make sure you get on the return line, not pressure side, or your steam line may not vent properly.
Temperature sensor is electric and adapter number is below. Some folks have tapped their passenger head for mechanical sender, so good luck if you try; you only get one shot at it. This is just to run aftermarket gauges, and is not critical for the engine to run, but gauges are necessary in my opinion.

Jags That Run - www.jagsthatrun.com - neat adapters to reduce radiator hose sizes starting at 1.75”, down to 1.25” in increments. They are not on the website, so you have to call for them. They are aluminum, and have a beaded edge to keep your hoses from slipping off, as is the inline splice for steam return line. Lotsa other neat stuff there too. They also have straight heater hose adapters in various sizes.
Advanced Auto Parts – The upper hoses, part # C70115 and E71375 to go down and under the throttle body to radiator, if you run your air intake to the passenger side. Use part # C71795 and C70115 to go up and over the throttle body to radiator, if you run your air intake to driver’s side to clear A/C bracket. Lower hose is D71281, one hose, cut it, spin it, trim it and couple it with adapters mentioned. All this provided you are using the passenger side upper, driver’s side lower hose configuration. There are other ways here as well.
Jegs – www.jegs.com - Steam line adapter to install inline of the upper hose, part # 555-5115. This piece is billet and heavy duty, Jagsthatrun has some aluminum ones that are lighter weight.
Water temperature sender is electric Autometer type, uses adapter #2277, 1/8” to metric thread for passenger side head. The electric sender is # 2259 1/8” npt. Just remove the factory plug, and insert the adapter. You might have to drill the adapter slightly. Install the sender in the adapter, and use some thread sealant. I twisted the first one off without inserting the sender into the adapter first. It doesn’t have to be gorilla tight, just snug. The adapter has a copper crush washer that doesn’t necessarily need to be crushed completely.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Exhaust

Not a lot to say about exhaust. I use the Street and Performance headers for a Heidt’s clip. They work for all the aftermarket clips. I am going to perform another swap on another 66 in the near term, and will be trying to use the same headers in a stock clip. They should clear the steering shaft for both an aftermarket clip, and the Church conversion. They are mid length headers, so they may also work for stock steering, but don’t quote me there, haven’t tried one. I will put up a bunch of pictures on that swap, so the stock steering guys can get an idea hopefully. It appears that the shock towers will have to be massaged, but these headers seem to be the easiest to use, without building a set, or modifying a brand new set. Folks have built some, and I really wish someone would do a thread just on how they did it. I have the stock clip that came off my car, and will be mocking up the engine to try a couple of thing so stay tuned.
Whatever header you chose, make sure it comes with the O2 bungs welded in, some do not. Also make sure they are not inboard of the collector, as they will hit the tranny. You wouldn’t believe that some very expensive coated headers, made for an LS1 don’t even come with the bungs to weld in, and some do, but in the wrong place.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Accessories

Be mindful of front accessories in your application. Truck, Corvette, and Camaro accessories don’t mix and match well at all. Pick one and stick with it, it will save a bunch of heartache, as water pump lengths, hose locations, water pump pulley depths, sizes and diameters vary, and power steering, A/C systems are different. This equates to a small block and big block, short or long water pump scenario. You see folks running different pulley setups, even a homemade power steering delete pulley like I made that’s not offered, but I don’t like it so I have a solution for that, and I will outline the change in my build thread, look for an update in the near future. It involves using a ribbed idler pulley, in place of the smooth one, and changing how the belt is routed. There have been some, who have even made their own accessory brackets, but it is not easy, and they don’t sell them.
There is a company that’s called Kwik performance, that makes really nice CNC’d A/C and alternator brackets, reasonably priced, (but remember Truck, Vette or Camaro here), as all his brackets are different for each application, the difference being the depth of each type. It uses a Sanden compressor. Some folks have had success using stock compressors, but it is variable rate technology, and requires additional controls, and pressure switches etc, for the ECM to run it, but some have run them with success. I am using Vintage Air, so it is stand alone and works just fine using a Sanden 507 compressor, typically found on 18 wheeler applications, which is what a lot of aftermarket air companies use.
In some cases, Vette accessories are preferred, say for a stock clip, where the alternator won’t fit down low, yet it fits down low on my Heidt’s clip using the Camaro style accessories. The Vette accessories put it up high on the driver’s side. Some folks have had success using the stock location down low for the A/C compressor, mine wouldn’t fit. Street and Performance, and Vintage air make a bracket to adapt a Sanden compressor to the down low location. I had to go up top.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Air Intake

There are several manufacturers out there and even some aftermarket pre assembled kits that may work, but the cheapest I found was Intake hoses dot com. Check your MAF sensor, and TB intake sizes, as they may vary. This was for 4” at TB, 3.5” MAF and air cleaner pipe sizes (1998 F-Body). They have all sizes and shapes to build your own system, and the silicone stuff is pricey. Browse around; there is a boatload of fittings in there. I like the constant torque clamps as opposed to a regular worm clamp, but just a personal preference, I feel they hold better, and are stout. I used an Air Raid filter element that is about 5” long, check your application to see how much room you have. Not much real estate up front when you get it all in there.
Website is www.intakehoses.com

4” to 3.5” reducing elbow – 90HL40R35
3” x 3.5” silicone sleeve – C40B350X3
6” x 3.5” aluminum tubing – AL35X6
3.5” Constant torque clamps – CT400
4” Constant torque clamps – CT450
 

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Ok When???

Power windows
Power locks
Power trunk release
Power side mirrors.
GPS
Key less entry
Compass rear view mirror w auto Deming. (good junk yard find!!!)

I do see your engine option in the orange crush!!!
You did a outstanding job. I do belive the engine you had before would kick it's "A"!! HA HA!!!

Al
 
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